How to rivet in straight lines?

[Malcolm HarveyParticipant @malcolmharvey97633]

I was wondering if anyone here has any advice on how to create a row of holes in a nice straight line for riveting. I have no problems with the actual act of riveting but getting a row of holes in a straight line is a different matter. I am using 1/16" snap head brass rivets. I have had much better results with larger rivets so I guess it is also a problem with the smaller size. I am doing Titfield Thunderbolt tender sides and back.

TIA

[Malcolm HarveyParticipant @malcolmharvey97633]

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

If you have a mill then do your drilling on that using a spotting drill then 1/16" stub length drill.

If only a drill press then clamp something to the table to act as a fence and do as above.

Whats your marking out like? do you use an optical punch or normal? dot punch first or straight at it with a less accurate centre punch mark.

These are all 1/16" mostly with the factory head inside, there is one in the back horixontal row thats a bit off to my eye.

[Bob Brown 1Participant @bobbrown1]

If you have access to a mill which has a DRO then you could make up a jig say 10 holes long and use that to position the holes moving it along as you drill the holes.

Bob

[Malcolm HarveyParticipant @malcolmharvey97633]

No mill (yet) unfortunately. I am centre punching with a punch that has a long narrow point. I have already found that with a 'normal' punch I can't see where the actual point is on the metal. I didn't know about optical punches – read about them and I want one!

[IanTParticipant @iant]

Going back many years Malcolm – there was an idea in one of the railway modelling magazines – whereby the work to be riveted (brass sheet in this case) was clamped to the saddle of a small lathe – behind which the modeller had mounted a small drill. By using the lathe feed screw he was able to move the work under the drill by controlled amounts (e.g. one full turn = 1/8th" -so 1/4 turn equalled 1/32nd etc.) and get nicely spaced holes for his rivets.

Never tried it myself but I remember thinking it might be a useful thing to know one day.

Regards,

IanT

[Capstan SpeakingParticipant @capstanspeaking95294]

Posted by Malcolm Harvey on 11/05/2015 13:41:55:

No mill (yet) unfortunately. I am centre punching with a punch that has a long narrow point. I have already found that with a 'normal' punch I can't see where the actual point is on the metal. I didn't know about optical punches – read about them and I want one!

Tilt the punch 45 deg away from you. Place the point on the spot and pivot it upright. It can be done. Opticals require more elbow room on the surface.

[Jesse Hancock 1Participant @jessehancock1]

Jason: If I attempt a large scale model of the Titanic you can have the job of riveting her up. Nice job you made of that firebox, if that's what it's called.

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