How to apply grease to old machine

[pgrbffParticipant @pgrbff]

[pgrbffParticipant @pgrbff]

I have just bought an old Italian bandsaw, I have no idea of its age but the 3ph motor can be run in delta or star so not too old.

The grease 'nipples' consist of threaded tubes with threaded caps and I do not know how you apply grease to these under pressure.

One of the 'nipples is 16mm in diameter, the other 30mm.

What would be the best grease to use?

Happy new year to all.

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Edited By pgrbff on 31/12/2020 10:26:34

Edited By pgrbff on 31/12/2020 10:27:44

Edited By pgrbff on 31/12/2020 10:29:17

Edited By pgrbff on 31/12/2020 10:31:34

[Brian HParticipant @brianh50089]

You just fill the cap with grease and then give the cap half a turn periodically. As to the type of grease, to be exact you need to know if the bearings are ball or roller or plain bronze; in practical terms, I would use the grease usually intended for auto use, i.e. a general lithium grease.

Brian

[pgrbffParticipant @pgrbff]

Posted by Brian H on 31/12/2020 10:30:35:

You just fill the cap with grease and then give the cap half a turn periodically. As to the type of grease, to be exact you need to know if the bearings are ball or roller or plain bronze; in practical terms, I would use the grease usually intended for auto use, i.e. a general lithium grease.

Brian

Thank you. I have no idea what sort of bearings yet, just so long as they are not Babbitt. I have managed to add an image of the upper wheel, does this give any clues as to the type?

[Brian HParticipant @brianh50089]

I would guess at bronze bearings because the wheels would not be revolving at high speed. I wonder if you remove the three slotted screws shown in the second picture, you may be able to see the end of the bearing to determine what kind of bearing it is? This would also give the opportunity to clear out some of the old grease in there.

It looks to be a nice piece of old machinery so all the best with getting it going and using it.

Brian

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

just so long as they are not Babbitt.

Why? Babbitt has been a good bearing material for all sorts of things, from cart axles to engine crankshaft bearings. Even wooden bearings were used in a lot of machinery back in the last century and before.

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

Babbitt is still used in many BIG bearings. Wood bearings are still used ! On combine harversters The straw walker shaft bearings on the straw walker are oil soaked beech blocks. Two halfs, with paper shims to take up wear. Noel

[Bo’sunParticipant @bosun58570]

I'd also be inclined to check that the greaseways are clear and not choked with old congealed grease first. Give the grease cups a good clean out too. A good quality NGLI No. 2 lithium based grease should do the trick. Most wheel bearing greases fall into that category.

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

An alternative grease which might be more in keeping with an old machine would be Castrol heavy, which is calcium based, but not high melting point.

Edited By old mart on 31/12/2020 15:23:31

[pgrbffParticipant @pgrbff]

Posted by not done it yet on 31/12/2020 13:31:26:

just so long as they are not Babbitt.

Why? Babbitt has been a good bearing material for all sorts of things, from cart axles to engine crankshaft bearings. Even wooden bearings were used in a lot of machinery back in the last century and before.

I didn't say Babbitt was no good. As a woodworker with too much to do already in the middle of nowhere in Italy, I think I might find it easier to replace a more recent type.

[Dennis RParticipant @dennisr]

Check out stauffer grease cup on the internet.

[pgrbffParticipant @pgrbff]

Posted by Dennis R on 31/12/2020 17:24:41:

Check out stauffer grease cup on the internet.

Thanks

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

I didn't say Babbitt was no good.

I thought you did – at least in your situation – so I was wondering why. Perhaps a language translation issue. If I was replacing a Babbitted bearing, I might well re-metal it as original, but no reason for not using a different bearing if appropriate,

I have a set of four engine connecting rods which will get re-metalled – if I ever need another fresh set.

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

These are as others indicate, called 'Stauffer Lubricators", and were very common before the invention of pressure grease-guns and nipples. They are just as effective, simply less compact.

I think you'll find you need fill both the cap and cup, on the first charging, unless the cup is of much smaller capacity than the cap. They are often of similar sizes, so filling only one part won't push much down the grease-way to the bearing.

My approach would be:

Clean out the lubricator and grease-drilling thoroughly.

Fill the lubricator fully as above, cup and cap.

Wind the cap down until grease just starts to appear from the bearing, while gently turning the machine over by hand to distribute it. (Obviously having put an initial smear of the same grease on the bearing, during assembly.)

Then refill the lubricator and as Brian says, give the journal a periodic half-turn dose.

If the bearing-housing is very thick-walled or the journal has big grease-grooves in its walls, those cavities can themselves absorb an appreciable portion of that initial lubricator-full.

Something like a wooden ice-lolly stick or a narrow semi-rigid plastic plant-label is effective as a grease spatula.

I would think modern greases would last a goodly time before a new squirt is needed, but that can only be determined by experience with the specific machine, and it is better to clean up exuded grease than renew a dried bearing.

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

I have grease nipples on my shaper but they are for oil, not grease

BTW if you have a blocked grease/oil nipple pump air through it to clear it

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

The usual way or working with Stauffer greasers is, once the passages are clear, lubricant is reaching the bearings, to give the cap half or a complete turn every so often, say every operating hour or so, to ensure that the bearing is lubricated.

Initially, it may well be worth using a fairly thin grease, to ensure that it does reach, and leak out of, the bearings. Once you are happy with the lubrication, you can use a heavier grease if you so wish.

Howard

[Bo’sunParticipant @bosun58570]

Greases other than NLGI No.2 tend to be a little more difficult to source.

[pgrbffParticipant @pgrbff]

Posted by Nigel Graham 2 on 03/01/2021 23:54:34:

These are as others indicate, called 'Stauffer Lubricators", and were very common before the invention of pressure grease-guns and nipples. They are just as effective, simply less compact.

I think you'll find you need fill both the cap and cup, on the first charging, unless the cup is of much smaller capacity than the cap. They are often of similar sizes, so filling only one part won't push much down the grease-way to the bearing.

My approach would be:

Clean out the lubricator and grease-drilling thoroughly.

Fill the lubricator fully as above, cup and cap.

Wind the cap down until grease just starts to appear from the bearing, while gently turning the machine over by hand to distribute it. (Obviously having put an initial smear of the same grease on the bearing, during assembly.)

Then refill the lubricator and as Brian says, give the journal a periodic half-turn dose.

If the bearing-housing is very thick-walled or the journal has big grease-grooves in its walls, those cavities can themselves absorb an appreciable portion of that initial lubricator-full.

Something like a wooden ice-lolly stick or a narrow semi-rigid plastic plant-label is effective as a grease spatula.

I would think modern greases would last a goodly time before a new squirt is needed, but that can only be determined by experience with the specific machine, and it is better to clean up exuded grease than renew a dried bearing.

How thick should the grease be? There were no oil seals at the back of the bearing, just very congealed hard grease.

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