How do I remove this small bearing? And the one behind it.

[pgrbffParticipant @pgrbff]

Heat always worked with model helicopter/aircraft engines so will try that first, then rawlbolt.

I think trying to knock two bearings out together from the back might be a tad tricky.

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

Removing bearings with the proper tools is normally a one way process, they should be replaced with new ones fitted properly so as not to damage them.

[Nick WheelerParticipant @nickwheeler]

Posted by Nicholas Farr on 09/04/2021 12:55:03:

Hi pgrbff, you can get proper extractors for removing bearings in a blind hole, but are a bit expensive for an occasional job. Your local garage or an engineer firm may have such things.

These sets are available all over the place: LINK for well under £30

[martin haysomParticipant @martinhaysom48469]

Posted by Grindstone Cowboy on 09/04/2021 13:25:18:

I recall seeing somewhere – possibly on the SKF site – a bearing puller that has thin legs with shaped ends that are designed to fit between the balls and then twist to lock into the inner and outer races. More than likely horribly expensive, but an interesting idea.

Rob

you are right on both counts. i got one had it years hardly ever used it

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

If you heat that aluminium housing to 200 C those bearings should fall out with a firm banging of the housing on the bench. Either use an oven or a propane torch, using the old "spit sizzling hot = 100 C" method then carry on heating for about as long again. Or 100 C may well be hot enough to drop them out if you give it a try.

Those expanding commercial pullers will work in a blind hole with two bearings. The puller centre boss has a very small lip on the end and the bearing inner races have a large radius on the ID that the lip fits into.

Heating is the less destructive method as cold pressing/pulling can loosen up the hole in aluminium by pushing a pressure wave of aluminium down the bore ahead of the steel bearing outer race. But usually takes a few bearing changes to do this. You can get away with it once.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

You can get away with it once.

And even afterwards with loctite ‘bearing fit’.🙂

[J HancockParticipant @jhancock95746]

If you do not have a lathe then grind the head of an 8mm bolt down to use my method.

Unless Loctited in , that bearing will nearly fall out.

[Mike PooleParticipant @mikepoole82104]

Obviously removing the bearings with no harm to the housing is the most desirable outcome but all is not lost with a damaged housing, bearing fit can compensate for a loose fit and if the housing is damaged beyond that then boring and fitting a tolerance ring can save the day. A correctly fitted bearing should not be excessively tight in its housing or the designed clearance of the races can be compromised, corrosion can sometimes make a bearing more difficult to remove. As an apprentice I was caught out by a wire circlip that I hadn’t spotted hiding in the grease, the hydraulic puller was struggling until I got some rag and had a wipe round to see what was going on. Lesson learned I have never been caught out since.

Mike

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Try turning down the end of some threaded rod (10mm or above.) to a couple of thou under 8mm. Clean out any oil or grease from the hole in the bearing. Loctite the end of the threaded rod into the bearing and leave it for a day or so to set. Use a suitable length of tube and thick washer to draw the beating out. (I can't remember which grade of loctite is the strongest.) You can remove the threaded rod from the bearing using heat, Repeat the process for the second bearing.

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 10/04/2021 10:59:37

[Grindstone CowboyParticipant @grindstonecowboy]

+1

I like Les's suggestion.

Rob

[pgrbffParticipant @pgrbff]

Posted by Grindstone Cowboy on 10/04/2021 14:12:52:

+1

I like Les's suggestion.

Rob

Me too

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

The grade of loctite that I have used in the past is 638.

Les.

[pgrbffParticipant @pgrbff]

After a couple of evenings of patient messing, I have both the bearings out. The first was reasonably easy, the second took longer. Heat obviously helped but it was still awkward without proper tools.

I used a 6mm rawlbolt, 10mm diameter. I had to modify both ends but it worked in the end.

Thank you for all your suggestions. I hope the 2 new bearings go in fairly tightly and the Al. casting has been damaged.

[mark costello 1Participant @markcostello1]

[mark costello 1Participant @markcostello1]

Those are made from socket head bolts. I have a surface grinder which made it easy to make.

[pgrbffParticipant @pgrbff]

Posted by mark costello 1 on 14/04/2021 17:29:00:

Those are made from socket head bolts. I have a surface grinder which made it easy to make.

Is one enough? I'm not sure how they work?

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