Horizontal hit and miss engine

[Andy_GParticipant @andy_g]

I asked a question about cylinder oilers on here a few days ago that JasonB was good enough to answer.

Here's the engine that I've been working on. It is my own design, and scratch built from bar stock using my 7 x 14 Chinese lathe.

Thank you.

Edited By Andy Gray 3 on 26/09/2020 22:08:01

[Andy_GParticipant @andy_g]

[EmgeeParticipant @emgee]

Hi Andy

That looks good and runs exceptionally well, is it just on fuel vapour ?

Emgee

[Henry BrownParticipant @henrybrown95529]

Very nice Andy, well done!

Did you make the fuel tank? I have a similar task imminent and would be obliged for any tips.

[Andy_GParticipant @andy_g]

Posted by Emgee on 26/09/2020 22:12:31:

That looks good and runs exceptionally well, is it just on fuel vapour ?

Thank you!

It has a fixed choke carburettor (fuel mixer?)  with a simple spray bar and needle valve that draws liquid fuel (Coleman fuel) from the tank.

Edited By Andy Gray 3 on 26/09/2020 23:19:27

[Andy_GParticipant @andy_g]

Posted by Henry Brown on 26/09/2020 22:48:17:

Did you make the fuel tank? I have a similar task imminent and would be obliged for any tips.

Thank you also!

The tank body is chromed brass bathroom waste pipe. (I had an off-cut).

I wanted a brass bodied tank, but the price of brass tube seemed horrific – more expensive than solid bar of the same size. I tried all sorts to strip the chrome off the bit of pipe I had and failed, so ended up just using it as it was – it turned out OK!

The ends of the tank were cut out of ~2.5mm brass sheet and both faces of each end were turned. prior to assembly, using superglue to hold them to a piece of faced-off aluminium bar in the manner of the Clickspring Youtube channel:

• Centre punch brass sheet, scribe circle, saw roughly to size, then glue to the 'face plate' using a centre in the tail stock to locate the punch mark on centre,
• Turn the OD and face off to leave a small pip in the centre. Machine a small shoulder to fit inside the tube.
• Remove from faceplate and glue the opposite face using the pip to centre in a suitable hole in the 'faceplate'
• Face off and round corners.
• Remove from face plate. The pips stay on the inside faces (but nobody can see them )

These were a nice, tight fit in the tube, and I just soft soldered them on (one at a time) by laying a ring of 0.5mm multi-core solder inside the tank and gently heating until it flowed into the joint, The second end had to be done 'blind', but it worked OK. (The bosses for the filler and fuel off-take fit through holes drilled in the tube and were soldered on from the inside with plumbers solder before fitting the ends.

I hope that makes some sense!

Another edit for a photo:

Edited By Andy Gray 3 on 26/09/2020 23:41:26

Edited By Andy Gray 3 on 26/09/2020 23:45:01

Edited By Andy Gray 3 on 26/09/2020 23:48:48

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Now that is a good runner and looker too, usually I'm not keen on the barstock and cap screw look but you have executed it very nicely particularly with those recessed heads..

I also like the easy way that the lever over rides the governor latch while the engine is running.

[Brian Baker 2Participant @brianbaker2]

Very good Andy, could that be written up, with drawings, for publication in Model Engineer?

Regards

Brian

[Henry BrownParticipant @henrybrown95529]

Thanks for such a detailed description about the fuel tank Andy, I'll be using a similar method! I plan to roll a sheet of brass to make the tube and then solder the ends in. Still not sure how to make the log joint between the ends yet so a bit of experimentation before I start I guess.

I just re-watched the video and it really is a credit to you, you must be very pleased with the end result…

[BazParticipant @baz89810]

+1 for seeing it written up in Model Engineer, I am sure quite a few people would like to make one, a very nice looking engine, well done Andy.

[Andy_GParticipant @andy_g]

Thank you all very much!

I'm not sure what would be involved in writing it up – I have (rudimentary) drawings for ~90% of it, but didn't take many photos during the build.

(I hesitate to confess that I haven't looked at the Model Engineering magazine since my father dabbled in model engineering in the early 1980s – there were plans for a shuttle valve engine from a small traction engine that my father and I started building at night school.)

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Excellent and such a sweet runner, it also speaks volumes for what can be achieved on a Chinese Mlini Lathe.

Great stuff.

Ron

[Jim NicParticipant @jimnic]

That's really nice, well done.

Jim

[Andy_GParticipant @andy_g]

Thank you!

[Mike PooleParticipant @mikepoole82104]

A very attractive engine, not everything needs to look as though it was built by the Victorians. I like it.

Mike

[Simon BirtParticipant @simonbirt51617]

Very nice and runs well. What have you used for the ignition? I am building a Farmboy and am starting to think about making sparks.

Simon

[Andy_GParticipant @andy_g]

Posted by Simon Birt on 14/11/2020 15:31:16:

Very nice and runs well. What have you used for the ignition? I am building a Farmboy and am starting to think about making sparks.

Simon

Thank you

 

I used a "Replacement Complete Ignition Set for Single Cylinder Gas Engines" module from Hobby King:

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/replacement-complete-ignition-set-for-single-cylinder-gas-engines.html

Unfortunately seems to be on back-order now

It needed some careful shaving down in order to hide it inside the engine pedestal.

Edited By Andy Gray 3 on 14/11/2020 18:47:18

[PatJParticipant @patj87806]

That is a nice looking engine.

And runs very well too !

Well done.

[Andy_GParticipant @andy_g]

Thank you!

[Author]

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