Hick & Son Crank Overhead Engine

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

Take it gently Neil, and us some candle wax to lubricate the blade, just let the blade cut at it's own rate, and don't push it. Blooming tedious if you have a long cut. Ian S C

[MICHAEL WILLIAMSParticipant @michaelwilliams41215]

For best results with a piercing saw use it vertical axis and set up blade to cut on pull stroke rather than push .

MikeW

[Mogens KildeParticipant @mogenskilde92996]

When I use the piercing saw, it is 5 strokes (of course pulling) then candle wax, 5 stroke candle vax, 5 strike candle vax , well you got it right ….

Makes the blade last for very long, think i might be combination of cooling and lubricating the blade this way.

Mogens

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

Good suggestions, but I don't think I have ever got as far as five

Neil

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

Just like a fret saw in wood is the way to hold it, make a saw table with a V shaped cut out in the front of it, my one fits in the bench vice, don't push too hard, and don't twist off the vertical, I suppose it's a bit of an art/skill. Ian S C

[JulianParticipant @julian]

Hello.

I have a set of drawings, plus castings, for the Hick & Son Crank Overhead Engine.

I haven't started work on it yet, as it looks a bit daunting and Hemingway don't have any construction notes for it.

Is there any chance of anyone on the forum having any notes on where to start? Or should I sell the stuff on, and find a more manageable project do you think?

I've built a Tubal Cain Polly, and a Sparey Diesel so far. I have a 5" Boxford AUD, and a cheap Warco milling machine. But I lack experience and expertise – just a humble primary school teacher for past 40 years or so, not an engineer!

Any guidance gratefully received.

Julian

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

It is quite a complex model, you may be better to put it under the bench (far better than selling on) and try something a bit less taxing such as one of the smaller Stuart range where there is plenty of info on the builds.

Chris who built the one pictured on Hemmingway's web site does occasionally visit MEM forum so you could ask there, he goes by the name of ModelSteam. This is another picture of it with him behind at this years Guildford show.

J

[JulianParticipant @julian]

Thanks for that, Jason. I won't sell it on then. Perhaps I'll have a nibble at it and see how I get on!

The one pictured looks to be twice as big as mine. Mine has a 71/2" flywheel. Or is it just the perspective? My drawings and castings are by Woking Models, whom I believe were bought out by Hemingway?

Julian

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Sounds about the same size, that is a standard mug just to the right of the engine so about 4" high which would tie in with your 7 1/2" flywheel. Its just teh camera angle.

Yes Hemingway took over teh range from Woking

[EnnechParticipant @ennech]

Good suggestions, but I don't think I have ever got as far as five

Try changing hands Neil

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Ha! The blades will snap before I even get to the metal if I pick up the saw in my left hand!

Neil

[davebParticipant @daveb17630]

Re: Piercing saw blades.

It's not necessarily your clumsiness that's causing the problem gents! I bought some piercing saw blades two or three years ago (as one does). Marked out brass plate made my self comfy and broke blade. Fitted new blade, cut about 1mm, blade broke. Fitted new blade, took one light cut and inspected blade. The teeth had stripped off! Absolute rubbish! It's only because I've used good quality blades that I know this shouldn't happen.

[Maurice Cox 1Participant @mauricecox1]

Hi Peter,

I built one of these engines some years ago. To form the slots in the connecting rod, I cut slots in from the end with a slitting saw, then silver soldered pieces steel in to close the slots. I make them "T" shaped to locate them, and achieve an accurate width of slot, then machine the waste away after. When assembled the joints will be invisible. I have used this method on parts which do show; if the infill is a close fit, and the parts polished, the joint is barely detectable.

regards Maurice

[pgk pgkParticipant @pgkpgk17461]

Just a newbie's curiosity…. but couldn't you mount a dremel cut-off disc (or even the tool) and cut the majority of the slot with that, then file up the ends?

[Peter Wood 5Participant @peterwood5]

Maurice

Thanks for the suggestion. However I completed the task in January using the chain drilling, fretsaw, and mini-file technique. Nevertheless it is a an approach I will bear in mind for future projects.

Presumably you cut the slots before making the bearing housings on the end of the crankshaft and also before milling out the tuning fork?

I think I made the slots as the last step in the crankshaft fabrication.

After a long break during the summer, when the prospect of making the Watt regulator put me off, the model is nearing completion. Just a few minor parts to produce (including the regulator butterfly valve.

Peter

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