Hemingway Hacksaw

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Re your drillings – I woud recommend drilling through the plate for all holes. The bottom part does not need to be the same diameter, but through holes will avoid swarf building up in blind holes.

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

Don't forget, reamers come in different nominal sizes, a 10mm E6 is 10mm + 0.043mm ( 10.043mm) whereas the R7 fit is 10mm – 0.034mm (9.966mm)Thus giving a hole anything between a clearance fit and a very tight swaged fit.

One often sees on older drawings – "Reamed hole", which in itself, doesn't mean much.

Ps – I am sure someone will correct me if I got the decimal point in the wrong place.
BobH

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

Thanks for your comments gents. I did try drilling the hole I reamed out with a 10mm end mill and it did produce a sliver of swarf, so that makes sense Speedy.

I still don’t have a lathe, so making my own pins is a no go at the moment.

I did consider making all of the holes through, but the vast majority seat on the rotary table top, so will fill with swarf in use anyway. I’ll see how it goes and may well mod it in the future if it gives me grief.

Today I decided to give it a go on the latch plate slot while I’m awaiting tools. Apart from my stupid mistake of setting up with the radius of the end on centre, then trying to cut the slot and latch (which is 1/8 off centre) it didn’t go too bad. Another lesson learnt – I should of put the centre of the intersection of the slots on the centre of the table, not offset it like I did.

It’s not quite as per the drawing, but I’m sure it will still work. If not, it’s not the end of the world to make another.

I bought a batch of offcut brass from eBay to use to protect the table.

Cheers

Mark

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

I’ve decided I’m not happy with the plate I made yesterday:

This is what it should look like:

When I rotated the table, I had to go to 45 degrees to get the centre of the latch to line up with the cutter. I CADded up the offsets today (it’s easier than me trying to work it out) and got the following (dimensions in mm):

I’ve ordered a new piece of 3mm plate and I’m going to have another go at it. At least I know where the error crept in.

Cheers

Mark

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

No progress today, as I'm still awaiting tools and materials. Progress has been made on a Lathe though, I called in to see the guys at ARC and came away with a SC4 and a load of tooling. – thanks for the coffee Ketan!

Spent the rest of the day getting it onto the stand and got started cleaning it down. More tool making coming I can see.

I've downloaded and printed out the supplement to the instruction manual that is on the internet by Robert Ackert here: **LINK**

Loads of stuff in there to get me started.

Cheers

Mark

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Continued on with my Boxer twin oscillator; soldered on the end blocks after re-tinning the frame & blocks, didn't want to redo… again! seems to have taken ok, got down to cleaning it up… plenty of elbow grease coming up !…

Cleaning up process …

Seem to be taking a long time with this one, family issues taking priority tho'

George.

Edited by George. Oooops…right forum… wrong thread Maybe moderator could move?

 

Edited By mechman48 on 16/11/2018 16:23:43

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

Still not much progress on the Hacksaw, but hopefully that is about to change. I’ve now got the lathe set up and after a bit of ‘fiddling’ got it to cut.

I’ve been busy today making trying to butcher a thread onto a bit of steel. The first attempt didn’t go too well, as I set up on 29 degrees, (I was wondering about the other markings detailed in the ‘additional instructions’ I linked to earlier) now I know.

So, after making a dogs dinner of the first thread, I watched Tubal Cains video on screw cutting on YouTube and managed to thread both ends. 2 different sizes, 2 different pitches, I’m getting some practice in changing the gearing of the lead screw.

Here’s my incorrect setup…on its side.

Just a bit of cleaning up to do, then I can get on properly.

I forgot, I bought MEW at the weekend and noticed I’m famous😂. The bit about this build with no lathe is ‘fake news’😂😂

Cheers

Mark

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

To get my thread back ‘on topic’ I made a start tonight on the crank disc. I’m busy pondering how I’m going to hold it to machine the taper in the boss. As there is quite a lot of meat to get rid of, I thought it would be a good start to skim off the outside, then hold it on a faceplate to do all of the work on the boss side, then back into a Chuck to finish the front and rim.

My first go at grinding a HSS tool bit for Ali seems to be reasonable, it is cutting.

I’m still pondering making up a mandrel and the collet for final external turning as per the instructions.

The finished disc should be 12.7mm, at present it is nearer 19mm so loads to go at.

Cheers

Mark

[Marcus BowmanParticipant @marcusbowman28936]

Picking up on Neil's point about starting with a mill. I often use my mill for turning, using a tool held in the vice, the work in the chuck, and the Z axis moving the work past the tool. The too need to be centred on the work using the Y axis feed, whcih is then locked. X axis is the 'cut' depth.

It's fine for short work. And if, like me, your mill is CNC, it's a joy to do repetition work that way.

Longer work is difficult, of course, because you not only need the space for the work, but for the distance you will feed it downwards.

Like Neil, I have sometimes reflected that the Maker community has a slightly different set of needs and priorities as far as workshop equipment is concerned.

Marcus

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

The taper is for the saw drive pin?

There are alternatives. A parallel drive pin with spigott and a shallow nut on the rear. Loctited to add the ‘belt’ to the ‘braces’. Even a bolt and washer in the back side to secure it.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Hi Mark,

Oops, wrong bit. The taper holding bit to affix disc to motor/gearbox output. Does the motor have a keyway? If so a keyway is the obvious modern day option?

I’m guessing that Edgar T did it that way because it was easy to do on the lathe, with no other kit available (the ’ordinary tools’ comment on the first page of the 1964 ME write up).

If you are making the collet, no problem with the angle of the taper – any angle close to design will do as long as you make both before changing the top slide angle setting. But I reckon a keyway should be a good alternative. It is only an aluminium boss.

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

Thanks Gents for your comments.

Yes NDIY, it’s the collet for holding the crank disc onto the shaft that runs through the gearbox. I’m going to have a go at it as per the drawings.

I’ve not got a lot done on the hacksaw this week, but I have finished off the Rotary Table Fixture Plate:

I have also nearly got the QCTP stud and quick release made:

I think I’m going to make the handle for it from the piece I scrapped trying to screwcut the stud on the first attempt. I’m going to thread it into the nut M10, so if it turns out to be too short, I can always make another a bit longer.

Cheers

Mark

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

I made a start on the handle this evening, turning odd the rubbish thread and bringing it down to 10 mm for threading with a die.

One of the things I bought this week from ARC was a tailstock die holder. Unfortunately, the setscrew that works the slide, although it has been turned down, it hasn’t been turned down enough. The slot dimension is 9.5mm, the turned down screw was 9.6.

I used the end of the handle to make a 6mm mandrel and take the screw to size:

Cheers

Mark

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

Bit more done today,

There was not a hope of threading the handle with the cheapo die I had, so I got set up and screwcut it with the lathe.

Handle all finished, a couple of flats milled onto it and the nut set up, drilled and tapped M10.

All put together and checked, then stripped, polished up, degreased with IPA and blacked, it’s all now sat lathered in oil.

Cheers

Mark

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Is your 'quick release nut' just one with a handle, or have you machined it so you can tilt it and lift it off once it's loose?

Neil

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

Hi Neil,

It’s nothing that fancy. Just a nut with a handle.

Cheers

Mark

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Most of the time one only needs to turn the toolpost to a slightly different angle. Mine has a ring spanner sitting, often almost permanently, on the nut of mine, that secures the toolpost to the top slide. Mark may well need another washer to get the handle in the right position. I just fit the spanner in any handy position.

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

Thanks Gents👍

I did take that into consideration NDIY, I did the nut up hand tight, marked up the angle with a permanent marker but allowed about 15 degrees for proper tightening, that second photo above is with it tightened right up, the handle has finished up pretty much parallel with the lathe bed. I’m very happy with how it has gone together.

While I was shopping at ARC last week, I picked a R8 Slitting Saw Arbour and a couple of saws. Ian made me aware that the saws wouldn’t fit the arbour with the key as supplied, as the key is 4mm but the saw slot for the key is only 3.

I got set up, .5mm off each side of the key and .5 off the top, it felt like microsurgery compared to what I have been doing. There was very little to hold in the vice, so I took it really easy taking .1 slices off and making sure I was conventional milling. Result:

Thanks for the heads up Ian👍

Cheers

Mark

 

Edited By Mark Elen 1 on 26/11/2018 19:13:54

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

Late last night, I got the 4 jaw set up on the lathe and clocked in the fixed vice jaw block. Turned the spigot and drilled and tapped the M12 thread.

Only one problem, the bolts supplied in the kit won’t fit….. they start, but after about a turn, they go tight. After lots of head scratching, I’ve worked out what’s happened. I’ve tapped it m12x1.5 not 1.75 as it should be….

Another silly mistake, at least the fix is pretty easy. I must get around to laminating a screwcutting chart and fix it up on the wall. Grr

Cheers

Mark

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

I managed a half hour this evening. Got the fixed jaw locking device finished and the ends rounded off so that it fits the slot in the bottom of the vice riser. Photos show better than words.

I’m not overly happy with the finish on the riser block, but as it’s to dimensions, I’m going to leave it as is, as a reminder to me of my first attempt at fly cutting. It will add to the character😂

With the vice jaw on and just held together, I can get a .15mm feeler guage between. I’m hoping that will be enough to nip it down.

I also got the tool post handle loctited into the nut and on the lathe.

Cheers

Mark

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

I got a few hours in the workshop yesterday and today, got the slide nut for the vice jaw to the point it now needs the lead screw hole drilling and tapping. I’ve come up with a plan for getting it in the right place – more on that when I get to it.

I also got set up and screwcut the threads on the lathe for the slide bar.

Excuse the mess on the bench…

Cheers

Mark

[SamsarandaParticipant @samsaranda]

Mark, glad to see a bench with “work in progress” having seen so many workshop shots of “immaculate “ machines and benches I was getting an inferiority complex because my machines and bench always look “lived in”. Keep up the good work, enjoying your progress, keep posting.

Dave W

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

Hi Dave,

Thanks for your kind comments. I always have good intentions about keeping the workshop tidy, it just never happens.

The replacement screws for the vice jaws turned up in the post this morning, so i got those fitted up. I’m very happy with the result:

The fixed jaw nipped up tight and on the sliding jaw, I can slide a .05mm feeler gague under, but a .10mm won’t go. Beginners luck that one.

Cheers

Mark

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

I got the slide bar weight done today. I’ve been pondering on how to hold it to machine it. I ended up holding it with the outside jaws of the 3 jaw and supporting it with the fixed steady:

I faced and chamfered both ends, then centre drilled and worked up to 12.5 mm from both ends. I finished off with a 1/2” reamer, then onto the mill to cross drill and tap M10. A bit of polishing up and finished:

I don’t know if that was the ‘best practice’ way of holding this, but I felt it was secure and it all went to plan.

Cheers

Mark

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

Not much done today, as I’ve been busy working. I’ve come across a slight issue, in that I’m missing a chunk of 13/16 hex bar to make the collet nut. I can’t recall seeing it when I got the the kit… never mind I thought, I’ll just order a bit off e-bay. Not a chance. There is 3/4 or 22mm but no 13/16.

I did make a start on the collet, but as I’m going to screwcut the 5/8 BSF on the lathe, I could really do with making the nut first, so I can track progress of the thread.

I ended up ordering a chunk of 3/4.

Whilst pondering the collet, I’m unsure how to set up to cut the taper. I’m guessing I need to set the top slide up at 5 degrees to make the 10 degree taper as per the plan?

On another note, I was going to make the handle, but as it needs knurling and I don’t have a knurling tool, i ordered the ‘sensitive knurling tool’ kit from Hemingway, which arrived today. On unpacking, I was happy to find 4 A3 beautiful drawings to a similar standard of the 10 that came with the hacksaw. (Such a shame they are imperial and I’m metric, but I’m getting used to multiplying by 25.4…) All materials checked and correct. As with the hacksaw, they don’t scrimp on material, although, it’s not excessive either.

I spent a good hour tonight with the drawings trying to take in the detail. I’ll start a new thread for this build.

Cheers

Mark

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