Hemingway Hacksaw

[DMBParticipant @dmb]

Mark,

Could you not join a local model engineering club so as to use their lathe? Most clubs seem to have a lathe but not a mill in their workshop. Quicker access to a lathe and cheaper temporary solution to get project done then take time sorting out lathe.

John

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

Hi Gents,

Thanks for your comments.

NDIY, it took me a while to get the joke. This forum's photos work the same way as another that I use, I'm using an iphone and I found with the other forum, photos need to be taken 'landscape' for them to orientate correctly.

John, I've been saving up for the lathe since I started this project about a year ago. I've just about decided what I'm going for, but unfortunately, the supplier has no stock at the moment. I'm in no great rush.

I'm torn between a Warco 280V and a Seig SC4, pretty much decided on the Warco, but, after buying the mill from arc, the fact that arc are fairly local to me and gave great advice and service through the buying process of the mill, I'm still not 100% decided yet. Add to this that the Seig is a lot smaller and lighter – its also nearly half the price.

I took a lot of info from this post on Clicksprings site: **LINK**

I might see if I can get to the show this week and have a proper look on warco's stand.

Cheers

Mark

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

Before I make a start on the bow, I thought I’d finish off the trunnion brackets. I’ve been holding off on these because I wasn’t sure how to hold them to machine the bases. The drawings show 4” from the base to the centre of the bushing. I had already drilled the bushing centres 6mm and the bracket holes 6mm, so I put them back to back and held them with a nut and bolt, cut up a piece of 6mm silver steel the same width as the bases and got it all set up in the vice.

By using the silver steel, it meant I could use it for measurements while taking the bases to dimension. 4” is 101.6mm, + half of the 6mm gave me 104.6 to aim for.

Cheers

Mark

 

Edited By Mark Elen 1 on 16/10/2018 18:23:14

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

Busy day today. Been to the midlands exhibition and bought a rotary table. Got home, marked out one of the 1/8” steel brackets, squared off the end and drilled it out. I now need to make some sort of mounting bracket to get it on the table to mill off the excess and round off the end.

It’s a bit of an extravagance, I could easily file it off, but I’m like a kid in a sweety shop when tools are involved.

Had the chance to look over the lathe I’m planning on, it’s on 6 weeks delivery at the moment. I would dearly like a Myford, but funds won’t stretch that far and for me, just playing, it doesn’t make a lot of sense.

Cheers

Mark

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

I guess ETW expected people to hook the bow around the table of a drilling machine and support it directly below where you are drilling.

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

Hi Neil,

You are more likely correct. The instructions call for filing most of the parts to shape, even the slide ways in the bow. I’m using this project as a learning process and also as a means to build up my workshop.

One of the reasons for buying the rotary table was because I’ve got all of the bits for the CNC Arduino conversion in MEW a year or so ago. I can see a use for that in the future. I got the stepper and Arduino wired up a few weeks ago and tested out, now I need to make up the ‘mechanical interface’ (if it’s anything like this project, it’s 5 years away)😂

Cheers

Mark

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

As per usual, buying new tools makes it necessary to make new tooling. I got the rotary table, then it became apparent I was going to have to hold things down to it. I haven’t got any t-nuts that fit the table, so I’m going to have to make some.

I toyed with the idea of holding the arm on a sacrificial piece of Ali, but I’m not happy it would be secure, so I’m going to make a ‘rotary table fixture plate’ similar to the one Chris has made at Clickspring. **LINK**

While I’m waiting for the billet to arrive, I got started making up some clamps

That came to a stop as I haven’t got a 2 flute slot drill.

Cheers

Mark

[jimmy bParticipant @jimmyb]

Keep up the great work!

Jim

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Mark Elen 1 on 21/10/2018 19:43:16:

That came to a stop as I haven’t got a 2 flute slot drill.

Do you need to plunge cut?

If not just use an end mill and take it gently

Neil

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

Hi Gents,

Thanks Jim👍

Neil, I just need to slot out between the two holes on the right of the photo. I’ve reamed them out 8mm so just need to take out the chunk in the middle.

Cheers

Mark

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Mark Elen 1 on 21/10/2018 20:44:57:

Hi Gents,

Thanks Jim👍

Neil, I just need to slot out between the two holes on the right of the photo. I’ve reamed them out 8mm so just need to take out the chunk in the middle.

Cheers

Mark

Any cutter 8mm diameter or smaller shoudl manage that

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

Thanks Neil👍

Called in at Leicester today as I was working just around the corner. Picked up a 8mm 2 flute slot drill.

Got home and slotted the first clamp out, filed and polished, then proceeded to drop it on the concrete floor and mark it.😬

I’m thinking of oil blacking these when they are all done. 5 more to do, another the same length as this, 2 off, 10mm longer with 10mm longer slots and 2 off 20mm longer.

Cheers

Mark

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

The clamping kit is coming along. 4 clamps done, 2 to go, but I’ve run out of 20mm x 10mm stock. I changed my mind about oil blacking these and ordered some Birchwood Casey Perma Blue after seeing Tubal Cain using it on YouTube.

Cheers

Mark

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

Just read this post and enjoyed your journey so far. Like many I have also found that I start a project and end up making jigs and the like many can be used for other projects and some are just a one off. I still enjoy making them as much as the project in question

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

Thanks Derek👍

I’m really enjoying tool making. I’ve now got the clamps done, just a couple of stops to make and some t-nuts. The Ali billet turned up yesterday, it looks pretty good as is, but I think I’m going to fly cut a skim off it before I start drilling and tapping it.

Cheers

Mark

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

I spent a little time today drawing out the hole layout for the fixture plate. Drew it out in Autocad, and layered up each PCD with its relevant dimensions.

Here's the billet

it just needs a quick facing up and then loads of holes to drill and tap.

The plan is to print out each PCD with its dimensions as a separate sheet, that way I can set it up on the rotary table and work on each separately.

I just need to finish off the clamps and t-nuts, then I can get the Rotary Table on the mill and crack on with this.

Cheers

Mark

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

Not much more to do on this, then I can get back on topic. I managed to get the clamps blacked today, this is them, covered in slide way oil.

I’m really happy with how they have turned out.

Cheers

Mark

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

I made a start today on the ‘rotary table sub-plate’, it’s a shame None of the table t-slots line up with 0 degrees. One of them is 4 degrees out.

I made up 3 temporary M4 t-nuts and drilled out at 4, 124 and 244 degrees, and counterbored M4. The plan is now to turn over the plate, counterbore the fixing holes, fly cut the bottom, then the holes can be opened up to 8mm for the final fixings.

Once the holes are opened up, I can bolt it down and mill out a spigot on the bottom to accept the MT2 blank arbour that will locate the table.

Cheers

Mark

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

A bit more done on the fixture plate and the first mistake. Somehow, I managed to get the centre of the plate misaligned with the centre of the rotary table by around .5mm. I drilled out the centre hole 6mm then set about creating a circular pocket to accept the stub of the MT2 arbour that will locate the plate. It was while milling this pocket that the misalignment showed up.

I offset the table in the x axis and rotated the table to mill out the pocket. I was questioning why the pocket was ~1mm over calculated size until I noticed the pocket wasn't concentric with the 6 mm supposedly central hole.

Not to worry, the pocket is concentric with the fixing holes, I'm going to open the central hole out to 10mm and make up some spigots for centralising parts

I also shortened the blank arbour, made absolutely certain it was central and drilled and tapped it M6 for future workholding.

The plate is a good sliding fit on the arbour.

Cheers

Mark

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

Still tap, tap, tapping away. 38 holes to tap M8, taper and plug. At least the square drives on the taps fit 2 different tap wrenches.

Holes spotted

All holes drilled 6.7mm. Because the mill hasn’t got a depth stop, I raised the head so that full quill extension drilled the holes 25 mm. Another job to get around to is to make a depth stop. I marked up the holes that need tapping, all of the others will be drilled then reamed 10 mm to accept dowel pins for location.

More tapping

Nearly there. I’m looking forward to using this.

Cheers

Mark

[sean logieParticipant @seanlogie69385]

Excellent work there Mark 😊

Sean

[Mark Elen 1Participant @markelen1]

Thanks Sean👍

Things all came to a grinding halt today. I finished tapping out all of the fixing holes, then I drilled out all of the ‘dowel holes’ to 9.7 mm and reamed out the first one to 10mm. Unfortunately, the 10mm dowel pins don’t fit.

The shank of a 10mm drill fits perfectly, but when I checked with my callipers, it is 9.95mm, the dowel pins are 10.05mm.

Now I have a 10.2mm drill, but I don’t want them being a sloppy fit, and, I’m not paying £40 for a 10.1mm reamer,so I’ve ordered a 10.1mm drill and it will ‘have to do’.

I don’t want to tear down my setup to work on anything else and have to zero it all back in, so I’m stuck to waiting for the drill to turn up.

Cheers

Mark

 

Edited By Mark Elen 1 on 11/11/2018 00:59:39

[Vincent CutajarParticipant @vincentcutajar96446]

Hi Mark

I am following your hacksaw build with interest.

Before you open up your 10mm reamed holes, can I suggest using 10mm round bar for the pins instead of the dowel pins.

Regards

Vince

[Vincent CutajarParticipant @vincentcutajar96446]

Use stainless steel round bar for the pins. I forgot to mention that in the above reply.

Vince

[sean logieParticipant @seanlogie69385]

Posted by Mark Elen 1 on 11/11/2018 00:58:51:

Thanks Sean👍

Things all came to a grinding halt today. I finished tapping out all of the fixing holes, then I drilled out all of the ‘dowel holes’ to 9.7 mm and reamed out the first one to 10mm. Unfortunately, the 10mm dowel pins don’t fit.

The shank of a 10mm drill fits perfectly, but when I checked with my callipers, it is 9.95mm, the dowel pins are 10.05mm.

Now I have a 10.2mm drill, but I don’t want them being a sloppy fit, and, I’m not paying £40 for a 10.1mm reamer,so I’ve ordered a 10.1mm drill and it will ‘have to do’.

I don’t want to tear down my setup to work on anything else and have to zero it all back in, so I’m stuck to waiting for the drill to turn up.

Cheers

Mark

Edited By Mark Elen 1 on 11/11/2018 00:59:39

Make your own dowl pins Mark .

Sean

[Author]

Posts