Help with Myford Saw Table?

[HillclimberParticipant @hillclimber]

WIth a job to do soon, I spent some time yesterday trying set-ups for a Myford saw table. Wondering if anyone has specific experience with one of these they can share.

Firstly, it was quickly clear that the stand has to be mounted on the first or last tee-slot of the cross-slide after removing the the topslide. This is so the bottom of the table's pillar can drop below the top surface of the cross-slide, else the table cannot be lowered over the saw.

The problem is then how far you can traverse the table of the saw. The leading edge of the advancing table would only go about 2" past the lathe centreline.

However, if I were to set the table up on the back of the cross-slide facing the operator, I found I could advance the table towards me to the full extent of the table's slot. First thought was that cutter rotation would be wrong – then realised I could flip the blade and run the lathe in reverse. Does that make sense?

Secondly, am I right in thinking the table cannot be used with saws of less than 3.5" diameter, else the underside of the table will collide with the arbor or some part of the tailstock?

After doing these rough setups with a chuck in place, I put the arbor between centres and it was unclear there was sufficient engagement between the driving spur and the arbor. Certainly not enough to 'wire'. Is this usual? Do I need a 'shorter' fixed centre?

Finally, and I'm making my way well down the list here, is it a good idea to 'bung' the hole in the cross-slide after lifting out the topslide? How?

Cheers, Colin

[HillclimberParticipant @hillclimber]

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I would not reverse the direction of the blade regardless of which way round the table is . Just push the work away from you into the blade turning in the right direction.

A nut and suitable length bolt will make a longer driving peg.

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Can you mount it with the base turned through 90 degrees and spanning several tee slots? Then the hole for the pillar will be to the side of the Xslide and nearer the centreline.

[Jon GibbsParticipant @jongibbs59756]

There's a video of one in-use here… **LINK**

It looks as if your positioning is pretty close according to that.

HTH

Jon

[HillclimberParticipant @hillclimber]

Posted by John Haine on 24/08/2017 09:31:40:

Can you mount it with the base turned through 90 degrees and spanning several tee slots? Then the hole for the pillar will be to the side of the Xslide and nearer the centreline.

Sadly not. I tried that but could get the slots to span a couple of slots sensibly. I did also think of trying it on the raising block – but it's clear it wont 'reach' the saw.

[HillclimberParticipant @hillclimber]

Posted by Jon Gibbs on 24/08/2017 09:39:02:

There's a video of one in-use here… **LINK**

It looks as if your positioning is pretty close according to that.

HTH

Jon

Cheers, I found this one yesterday, which is how I worked out the problem of the the post descending into the cross slide rather than desired thin air. Watching it again, I see he does not manage to advance the table any further than me.

[HillclimberParticipant @hillclimber]

Posted by JasonB on 24/08/2017 09:09:33:

I would not reverse the direction of the blade regardless of which way round the table is . Just push the work away from you into the blade turning in the right direction.

A nut and suitable length bolt will make a longer driving peg.

I know I can silde work by hand into the saw, but I was thinking more of pieces clamped to the table as being the problem.

But why not run the whole thing in reverse, other than the small matter of facing into an unguarded saw!?

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Does look like he has a larger dia saw blade which means the cut can be started with the table closer to you therefore giving a longer fed cut. Depending on what you are doing you could leave the table stationary and feed the work by hand much like you do a table saw.

[RobboParticipant @robbo]

Quote "Secondly, am I right in thinking the table cannot be used with saws of less than 3.5" diameter, else the underside of the table will collide with the arbor or some part of the tailstock?"

Note the saw blades originally supplied by Myford for use with the saw table were 5", and a 6" was also available.

Edited By Robbo on 24/08/2017 23:11:20

[HillclimberParticipant @hillclimber]

Posted by Robbo on 24/08/2017 23:09:26:

Note the saw blades originally supplied by Myford for use with the saw table were 5", and a 6" was also available.

Edited By Robbo on 24/08/2017 23:11:20

***gamechanger***

Robbo, thanks. I checked how far the pillar currently has to drop below the level of the upper surface of the cross-slide, and it's about 11/16" with a 3.5" saw. So looks awfully as if a 5" blade should allow me to advance the attachment along the cross-slide without interfering with the pillar as the table surface will be about 3/4" higher.

5" saw on its way from Arc Euro….

You may also have noted that my attachment is, of course, aloft your old industrial stand. So thanks again for help with that.

Cheers, Colin

[RobboParticipant @robbo]

"You may also have noted that my attachment is, of course, aloft your old industrial stand. So thanks again for help with that."

Didn't really notice I'm afraid – What I do remember is startling you when we tested your old 3-phase motor (sounded like the proverbial bucket of bolts). So much so that I afterwards inserted an on/off switch in the Phase Converter input!

Phil

[Mike PooleParticipant @mikepoole82104]

If you run the lathe in reverse there is risk the catch plate could unscrew from the nose.

Mike

[HillclimberParticipant @hillclimber]

Posted by Mike Poole on 26/08/2017 10:25:36:

If you run the lathe in reverse there is risk the catch plate could unscrew from the nose.

Mike

Mike, thanks. That makes perfect sense.

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Colin, inspired by this thread I just bought one of these tables as I was idly thinking of making a saw table for my lathe anyway. Though a bit old and dusty with a little bit of rust it looks unused. Which saw blade did you end up getting from Arc please?

Oh, and how fast do you run it?

Edited By John Haine on 08/09/2017 10:07:34

[HillclimberParticipant @hillclimber]

I bought this one from Arc: 060-310-04000 124T 5"x1"x1/16"

And have since added a similar 1/32" wide saw from Cromwell as they had them offer on fleabay. The Cromwell item was a couple of quid more expensive.

On speeds, my HSS speed chart is on the workshop wall, so cant refer to it immediately. But at 5" diameter you dont need a lot of rpm to produce quite a lot of fpm! I'll get back to you….

The other item I am about to order is a revolving centre. Looks like RDG have the identical triple bearing centre they sell across the carpark for a few quid less.

Cheers, Colin

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Thanks! I'll order the wider one to start I think.

[HillclimberParticipant @hillclimber]

Posted by Hillclimber on 08/09/2017 11:35:22:

On speeds, my HSS speed chart is on the workshop wall, so cant refer to it immediately. But at 5" diameter you dont need a lot of rpm to produce quite a lot of fpm! I'll get back to you….

OK, getting back to you now!

My revolving centre arrived this morning and I was able to try cutting some MS tube. My first piece of advice is to go get that 1/32" saw from Cromwell – much zippier in removing only half as much metal.

On speeds, I checked the chart and my starting position for the 5" saw, referring to Myford S7 speed ranges, looks like:

90rpm steel

200rpm brass

290rpm aluminium

If you get to try any of these before I do, feedback welcome.

Cheers, Colin

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Thanks for the update. I've ordered the wider saw as I thought it would be more robust, I'll see how I get on.

Do you have the clamp? If so is it possible you could post a photo please? Also, the groove in the RHS of the table is presumably to take a sliding fence – do you have any idea what that looks like?

John.

[Rick Kirkland 1Participant @rickkirkland1]

It’s not for a sliding fence. It’s for a protractor attachment for angle cutting.

[HillclimberParticipant @hillclimber]

Ah, the mystery slot? I'm glad you raised the subject, as I think it is for both of the suggested purposes!

In fact I have been trying to work out quite what it's purpose is and dug up these pictures from t'web that suggest there are two attaching 'things'. One simple bar that would allow some kind of parallel sliding motion of an angular component using the fence. And another that is 'protractorish'. But neither would be fixed, which is why what I'm trying to figure.

Rick, any clues on how it is actually used in either case?

Cheers, Colin

Edited By Hillclimber on 11/09/2017 15:25:20

[HillclimberParticipant @hillclimber]

Answering my own question, I think that I have worked out that the 'protractorish thing' is in fact a crosscut sledge. In use it would be oriented perpendicular to the saw and used to push the narrow dimension across the blade – hence it slides rather than locks in the 'mystery groove'.

[Terry oldsParticipant @terryolds52232]

 

 

Have the saw table but no arbour,, can anybody help me with as myford s7 saw table arbour, or the measurements of it to make myself.

 

 

Edited By Terry olds on 14/11/2017 20:56:25

[EmgeeParticipant @emgee]

Terry

Mine used an arbor held either in the chuck and a running centre in the tailstock, or you can use a spindle centre with catchplate and driver with a tailstock centre.

From memory the std blade was 5" diameter by 1/16" thick with a 1" bore so the arbor has to have flanges to suit

Emgee.

[Robert ButlerParticipant @robertbutler92161]

Myford-lathes have an arbor for sale @ £65-00. Robert Butler

[Author]

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