Help needed, can’t release cast iron wheel

[pgrbffParticipant @pgrbff]

I have been patiently trying to remove the cast iron wheel shown. I first tried tightening up the puller and applying heat slowly to the hub as I rotated it but three days on it just won't come off. If I start to tighten up the puller it simply bends, and it isn't a cheap one from Amazon.

I thought cold might break the seal better but not sure what else to try.

I have sat for up to ten minutes or maybe more with a Mapp torch slowly heating as I rotate the wheel.

[pgrbffParticipant @pgrbff]

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

I assume that after carefully tightening the puller, heating the hub gently and re-tighteming, you gave the head of the puller screw a good thwack with a 4Lb hammer. Light taps won't do anything. It looks like you have a good purchase on the hub, so the puller must be done up VERY tight – I don't think there is much risk of breaking the hub like that.

[John BaronParticipant @johnbaron31275]

Hi Guys,

You need to get the heat on the hub as quickly as possible before the shaft has a chance to start to get warm. Then the hub will expand before the shaft. It should come off after that.

[pgrbffParticipant @pgrbff]

Posted by Speedy Builder5 on 06/03/2021 14:53:51:

I assume that after carefully tightening the puller, heating the hub gently and re-tighteming, you gave the head of the puller screw a good thwack with a 4Lb hammer. Light taps won't do anything. It looks like you have a good purchase on the hub, so the puller must be done up VERY tight – I don't think there is much risk of breaking the hub like that.

I confess I haven't hit it hard. Too afraid! It isn't that tight, just enough I hoped.

Edited By pgrbff on 06/03/2021 15:11:33

[pgrbffParticipant @pgrbff]

Posted by John Baron on 06/03/2021 15:01:54:

Hi Guys,

You need to get the heat on the hub as quickly as possible before the shaft has a chance to start to get warm. Then the hub will expand before the shaft. It should come off after that.

There is quite a large chunk of iron in that centre, it's difficult to heat up quickly, I only have mapp.

[larry phelan 1Participant @larryphelan1]

Mapp unit may not be big enough for the job, you need to get the heat in there FAST.

Two Mapps or better still, Oxy &Acy

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

Just another thought – they come slowly these days. I doubt the wheel is shrunk onto the shaft as there is a bearing behind it, so there must be a pin or set screw holding the wheel to the shaft and some sort of key. Assuming this is the wheel driven by the motor? Clean up the outer boss of the wheel and look for some sort of pin underneath all that paint.

If the wheel IS shrunk onto the shaft, it was never intended to come off and you would have to remove the shaft with the wheel attached by removing pulleys etc from the other side. If it was shrunk on, you would need a heavy press to get it off, not a puller.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Are there any grub screws or tapered keys hiding under the paint/rust that have not been removed, I'm assuming the flywheel had to be held on by something

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

If nothing else is holding it then a reasonably sized propane torch, say 1"dia should do it. Get it good and hot then wack it with a lump hammer. It will need plenty of heat. Noel

[pgrbffParticipant @pgrbff]

Posted by Speedy Builder5 on 06/03/2021 16:08:03:

Just another thought – they come slowly these days. I doubt the wheel is shrunk onto the shaft as there is a bearing behind it, so there must be a pin or set screw holding the wheel to the shaft and some sort of key. Assuming this is the wheel driven by the motor? Clean up the outer boss of the wheel and look for some sort of pin underneath all that paint.

If the wheel IS shrunk onto the shaft, it was never intended to come off and you would have to remove the shaft with the wheel attached by removing pulleys etc from the other side. If it was shrunk on, you would need a heavy press to get it off, not a puller.

There is a washer and a screw that fits where the centre of the extractor is, no other fixings.

[john halfpennyParticipant @johnhalfpenny52803]

Not easy because heat will also tend to expand and lengthen the spokes, which will tend to tighten the hub on the shaft. Quick heat on the hub, a bigger puller with more arms, and a big hammer.

Edited By john halfpenny on 06/03/2021 16:31:13

[Maurice TaylorParticipant @mauricetaylor82093]

Hi, I would try a 10ton hydraulic 3 leg puller and hit it with a big hammer.

Maurice

[Brian MorehenParticipant @brianmorehen85290]

Try any penetrating oil around the joint between the pulley and shaft even when hot this sometimes works . Worth second look as suggested look around the pulley for a Allen screw buried into the shaft and lost underneath the paint

Good luck Bee.M

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

Posted by john halfpenny on 06/03/2021 16:29:54:

Not easy because heat will also tend to expand and lengthen the spokes, which will tend to tighten the hub on the shaft. Quick heat on the hub, a bigger puller with more arms, and a big hammer.

Edited By john halfpenny on 06/03/2021 16:31:13

Fully agree.

Even though your puller looks a bit on the lightweight side its worth tightening it to the point of not quite destroying it, and then one big whack with one big hammer!

I learned a lesson in the 60s when I ruined a brand new (Pickavant?/Churchill?) hydraulic extractor trying to get the flywheel off my Mini 1275s (held on the crankshaft with a taper). I just kept tightening and tightening until something broke in the hydraulics. Next day friend came round with his plain mechanical puller, tightened it up and with one tap from a lump hammer the flywheel popped off.

Ian P

[pgrbffParticipant @pgrbff]

It's off. Gentle, and slightly less gentle persusion at times. Flew off with a bang. Shaft is tapered.

On the other end of the shaft is a double aluminium pulley, cast I assume and probably very brittle. I have no idea how I'm going to pull that off without pulling bits of aluminium off first.

[Robert ButlerParticipant @robertbutler92161]

Is that a screw slot immediately above the puller screw 12-00 o'clock? does the item on the end of the wheel then unscrew? both would serve to locate the cast iron wheel and when the wheel is removed may also reveal a key?

Robert Butler

[pgrbffParticipant @pgrbff]

No screw, just a taper fit, very tight.

[pgrbffParticipant @pgrbff]

No screw, just a taper fit, very tight.

[pgrbffParticipant @pgrbff]

No screw, just a taper fit, very tight.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

If you are worried about the aluminium, two thhoughts

1 Aluminium is likely to have a higher coefficient of expansion that cast iron, so applying as much tension as you dare and then applying heat away from the hub will allow the heat to seep into the hub before thew shaft.

Hopefully it will pop off.

2 An alternative is to place a bearing extractor. (The two piece type that you clamp together with a couple of bolts ), so that the load is applied to the hub not any spokes by your puller..

On one occasion, despite applying heat and a LOT of tension, the thing would NOT come off. As I walked away despondent, there was a bang and the brake drum and puller shot across the drive and into the flower bed.

HTH

Howard

[Pete.Participant @pete-2]

I have two of those small Beta pullers, while they are well made, I'd think a bit undersized for what you're asking of it there.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

The only thing that ever defeated my Sykes Pickavant pullers, plus heat, was the torque converter on a Morris 1300 automatic. The garage ended up sing a cutting torch on it, but they just caught the shaft, although file and emery fixed that mark Fortunately, we had a spare torque converter for when it was time for reassembly.

It was not my car, so was happy to see it being driven away!

Howard

[martin perman 1Participant @martinperman1]

Are you able to apply pressure from the rear with a pair of wedges and a G clamp as well as the puller.

Martin P

[martin perman 1Participant @martinperman1]

One other thought, drill a large hole into the centre of the shaft allowing the shaft to give a little and once the pulley is free tap a thread into the hole to replace the space with a plug.

Martin P

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