Help. Myford Super 7 threads not equal gearbox chart

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Help. Myford Super 7 threads not equal gearbox chart

Home Forums General Questions Help. Myford Super 7 threads not equal gearbox chart

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  • #651495
    Matthew McBride
    Participant
      @matthewmcbride39121

      I shall find myself a copy. This is a great hobby, but I think it will take me my lifetime to get any good at it. There is so much to learn. I do have a copy of the Super 7 Manual, but it helps beyond measure having a couple guys on the interwebs to help me understand it. I am just getting the terminology down. I chalk this weekend up as a win because I did just run a perfect 18 TPI. ITs a good thing no one is timing me, this is the culmination of about two months of learning. Maybe I will be able to finish the Stuart engine some day

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      #651496
      not done it yet
      Participant
        @notdoneityet
        Posted by Matthew McBride on 10/07/2023 02:18:40:

        I shall find myself a copy. This is a great hobby, but I think it will take me my lifetime to get any good at it. There is so much to learn. I do have a copy of the Super 7 Manual, but it helps beyond measure having a couple guys on the interwebs to help me understand it. I am just getting the terminology down. I chalk this weekend up as a win because I did just run a perfect 18 TPI. ITs a good thing no one is timing me, this is the culmination of about two months of learning. Maybe I will be able to finish the Stuart engine some day

        Had you known as much as you do, after this thread, you would have been able to easily sort it yourself.

        Yes, it will take a lifetime to learn as much as possible but not to become good at it – after you set up to cut a 100 different threads you will be sufficiently proficient. We (well, most of us) never stop learning.

        A ‘win’ because you have gained more experience – that error/mistake/short-coming is now behind you – and you also know about lubrication. Oil will flow to the bearing surfaces easier than grease, won’t block lubrication channels (think here the change gears) and does not leave a deposit which could collect all sorts of abrasive chips/dust (think here, again, of the gear train).

        There are always exceptions – I have an engine where the big end plain bearing is greased – but it runs at relatively low speed (300rpm or so?) and was likely greased by the operator just grabbing the greaser cap, on the end of the crank shaft, momentarily while the engine was running!

        You are a hobbyist, so timing should not necessarily be a priority. All of us have made and then remade parts because of errors/mistakes/etc. After several practice sessions, your speed will improve. The only timing issue is generally that of the order of cutting the surfaces – careful planning is often required to make the job easier or even possible.

        No apprentice would be qualified after only two months of the course – and they would be working/learning full time.

        Just remember, there is usually a simple reason and (often) an easy fix to most problems. My advice is to always buy reasonably good quality kit, so you know it is ‘operator fault’ when things don’t work out as expected. The ‘buy cheap, buy twice’ is often demonstrated as a good maxim to adhere to. That ‘few quid extra’ is often repaid after only a short time.

        #651498
        Harry Wilkes
        Participant
          @harrywilkes58467
          Posted by old mart on 09/07/2023 19:33:34:

          If you don't already have a Super 7 manual, it would be worth while getting one from either Myford or Lathes UK.

          Also you may want to think about joining the Myford Lathes Group https://groups.io/g/myfordlathes

          https://groups.io/g/myfordlathes

          They have a manual in the groups files

          H

          Edited By Harry Wilkes on 10/07/2023 08:23:41

          #651744
          Howard Lewis
          Participant
            @howardlewis46836

            As already said, if there vis a problem, start at one end and wsork steadily tghrough from one end to another.

            Stating the blindingly nbobvious, the pitch that you cut is detremined byb the ratio between the workp[iece in the chuck and the pitch of the leadscrew.

            Normally , with an Imperial Myford one wopuld expect the leadscrew to be 8 tpi (with a pitch of 0.125" )

            Brian's book will explain how to set up a gearbox, or train of changewheels to set a ratio which will cut tghe thread pitch that you require, Assuming that in most cases you want an imperial pitch which is a multiple of 8 tpi.

            Howard

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