Hammerte paint

[NilochParticipant @niloch]

I’m attempting to improve the appearance of the cabinet under my Centec 2B but I didn’t realise that smooth Hammerite was so difficult to brush on. The finish is unacceptable. My intention is to rub it down with wet and dry and, if possible, spray on (aerosol) some grey car cellulose. Does anyone know whether there will be a reaction between the two types of paint. Any additional advice would be welcome. Thank you.

[NilochParticipant @niloch]

Difficulty in applying with brush

[Keith LongParticipant @keithlong89920]

I don’t want to discourage you too much but Hammerite is pretty renown for its non stick properties for anything overcoating it, so as well as possible reactions you might well find that any covering coat will chip off fairly readily.

Keith

[WALLACEParticipant @wallace]

I think there well might be. I know hammerite uses a different thinners to ‘normal’ paint – and if you spray the stuff, you need to leave it for a week or so otherwise you get a wrinkle finnish – which actually looks quite nice ! I’ve painted odd bits of a car engine using this method – it gives go a nice glossh wrinkle finnish that’s a lot easier to clean than the usual matt wrinkle paint.

 

I would leave it a good few weeks before trying – and then, try it first on a small area.

 

 

W.

 

[Gordon WParticipant @gordonw]

Leave it to dry, if still unacceptable finish then rubbing down will give good finish. I usually thin down before painting, also warming the can in hot water sometimes works well. Also check use by date!

[William RobertsParticipant @williamroberts98085]

Niloch, I think you will find if you put cellulose on anything thats not cellulose it will orange peel , you could try synthetic which always cured the problem when cellulose would’nt take. Another way is get a tin of household paint ( I always used Leyland) so long as its oil based, put it in an old saucepan heat it up till it bubbles stick it in the gun and spray while its hot. Iv’e never had a problem with that painting over anything and its a cheap way. Bill

[Gray62Participant @gray62]

Cellulose will most defintely react with hammerite (from experience!).

If you want a good finish in a workshop type grey, then I would stip the hammerite and paint with a gloss oil based paint. I have been experimenting with various makes and have found Wikinsons own brand non drip to produce acceptable results with a brush on application. It also seems so far to be resistant to any of the products used n the workshop. The paint I used was marked as suitable for wood or metal, the also sell a red oxide primer for undercoating any bare metal first.

[blowlampParticipant @blowlamp]

The one thing I know about the ordinary Hammerite is that you have to put it on thick and leave it to spread out on its own. Put it on too thin and it looks a mess and tears away as you’re brushing .

 

The smooth might well be the same.

 

Martin.

 

[Richard MarksParticipant @richardmarks80868]

Try floor paint,sticks to anything, get the real one with a high vhoc rating, I have used it on concrete,wood,metal and have had no trouble.

Dick

[_Paul_Participant @_paul_]

Hammerite has two varieties the old type (like the cans on my workshop shelves) which smell of thinners/acetone and dries far too quickly and the latest incarnation which appears to be oil based and dries a little too slow for my liking.

The two types must not be mixed.

I have tried thinning the stuff using ordinary celulose thinners and Hammerites own thinners but neither seem to work very well OK for cleaning the brushes but not to thin to use.

 

If you wnat a hardwearing smoothish oil resistant hardwearing finish you could do worse than use Tractor paint “Tractol” or “Sparex” to name but two dries quickly enough not to run but slow enough not to drag or leave brushmarks.

 

regards

 

Paul

[Chris TriceParticipant @christrice43267]

It’ll take weeks before you can rub down Hammerite. It doesn’t ‘harden’ sufficiently for wet and dry to cut into it. Cellulose thinners will strip it off for starting again but it’s messy. Just use Halfords (actually Duplicolor) car sprays for painting. By design, they’re oil and petroleum distillate proof although cellulose thinners or acetone will take them off. Make sure everything is thoroughly degreased though. If you’re wedded to a hammered finish, primer with Halfords Grey Primer (I prefer the grey Plastic Primer) and then use Hammerite spray cans on top of that. You’re unlikely to get any kind of acceptable metallic finish by brushing.

 

[Dave TointonParticipant @davetointon92281]

I agree with Martin. The only way I am able to get a good hammered finish is to slap it on thickly with a brush. Spraying doesn’t seem to allow the mottled finish to appear.

Regards

Dave Tointon

 

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