For the beginner it's not a fit that they can easily measure and I don't usually bother to measure it even now preferring to test fit as I take the last few though off the piston.
If you do find things need reworking then I would suggest first honing the cylinder with a cheap brake hone so that you have a half decent surface to work with rather than getting a new cylinder.
Then make a new piston from brass as supplies or even aluminium as the lighter weight will help with smoother running. turn the piston but leave it say 5thou over size then mount onto the finished piston rod and set the rod running true which will probably mean in the 4-jaw or using a split bush unless you have very accurate 3-jaw or accurate collets. Now with a very sharp tool take 1 though cuts off the diameter of the piston trying it for fit in the cylinder after each cut making sure to test each end just incase you have a tapered bore.
Once it will enter one end attend to any taper by additional honing or lapping until the piston will slide freely in the open cylinder but if you hold with your left thumb over the ports and palm of your right hand covering the end of the ecylinder you should be able to feel the pressure/suction as the cylinder is slid up and down.
I would not fit packing or a ring, the oil grooves as per the drawing will be quite enough and if you are only making for display then the lack of ring friction will help with slow smooth running.
This is the sort of fit you should aim for, cylinder end cover is in place and I have my finger blocking the ports and the piston slowly drops as air escapes around it. I'll post another video later of the engine I'm working on at the moment showing it with covered and open ports.