Grinding Rest

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Looking good, Vic

MichaelG.

[VicParticipant @vic]

Thanks Michael. I sometimes start to loose interest with projects that take a while. It’s not helped being too hot in the workshop. I’ve been commissioned to make a few bits so I have to deal with those first before I can even think of continuing.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Knurl those bolts just below the head to make them captive?

[not done it yet]

On not done it yet Said:

Knurl those bolts just below the head to make them captive?

I’m not sure how I’d do that? They are stainless as well so not sure if they’d oblige?!

I spied some long M8 stainless hex bolts yesterday which got me thinking. I turned one down to 6mm and cut an M6 thread on the end. I then milled the head to produce two larger flats. The idea being that I could perhaps fix a small anti rotation plate to the bracket. I then turned and faced the head to improve the appearance. Somewhat confusingly, during the test fit the bolt happily stayed in place without any further assistance. How perverse. Further investigation required but perhaps just having a larger head (than a cap head socket screw) is enough to solve the issue?

[VicParticipant @vic]

This is the machined part. I’ve probably wasted my time milling the head as I now suspect the original hex head would have done the job just as well. We’ll see as I need to machine another one. I’ve blasted the head and a small part of the shaft to give it more chance of staying put. If it doesn’t I’ll use stud lock or something between the bolt and bracket. Given the comments of others it really seems the socket set screw on the original plans was a poor choice, unless you carefully size the hole in the bracket to suit the screws you have, they do vary a little. I think if I were designing something like this, and given many of the other parts are laser cut, I would have put a square hole in the bracket and suggested the use of coach bolts? It’s fun being a Guinea pig!? 😆 I hope this help others.

[DiogenesParticipant @diogenes]

Make a ‘T’ shaped stud ( a ‘cross-bar’ with a round spigot on the back) and glue it into a hole in the bracket on the tangent of the flat bit..?

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Nicely done, Vic … but may I suggest that a simple dowel-pin through that head and into a slightly oversize hole in  the plate would save a lot of further effort ?

MichaelG.

[Grindstone CowboyParticipant @grindstonecowboy]

I think Blondihacks fixed a plate with a flat on next to the hole to stop her hex head bolt rotating, a bit like Diogene’s suggestion.

But Michael’s dowel pin is also a good solution.

Rob

[VicParticipant @vic]

Thanks for all the suggestions folks. I did think of putting a small socket screw (or a pin) through the head into the bracket but there’s not a lot of room. I’ll have to check the measurements. It’s a shame I didn’t have an M10 bolt I could machine as I’m sure it would have yielded a bigger head to play with. Thanks again.

Edit: The head is too small for my smallest cap screws – M2.5 and I’d rather use a bolt than a pin if possible.

[VicParticipant @vic]

That’s an M2.5 Cap Head Socket Screw. An M10 Hex bolt should yield enough material for the job if I can find a couple. If not, off to eBay …

Edit: I looked at the last Blondihacks video on the topic and she was planning on using a Hex bolt and welding a small tab on the bracket.

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

How about a bit of 3mm stuff with a U shaped slot to fit the head of the long bolt, and a 3mm hole to screw it to the end plate

[VicParticipant @vic]

There are so many different ways to do it. I’d like something aesthetically pleasing without too much effort. I’m not sure I can achieve either at the moment though!? 😆 A round headed bolt with a tiny cap head socket screw through it may look intriguing though?

[VicParticipant @vic]

Done. More than a bit OTT but I have the time and materials so why not. It’s all experience. A better solution would be a coach bolt and square hole but I’d rather be turning than filing. 😉

[VicParticipant @vic]

A small update. I don’t think the grinding wheel needs to be covered as such. Most of the folks I’ve seen using this type of setup haven’t bothered. Some though have installed a cover to keep the grinding dust in check which I think is a good idea and not too difficult to achieve. It’s been suggested to me that 90% of the dust will end up directly below the point of contact between the tool and the wheel.
I bought a 110mm soil pipe end cap and a coupler. Both were trimmed up on the lathe. The end cap was bored and drilled for two screw holes to mount it on the grinder. The coupler was trimmed down by about 50mm and is simply a push fit, held firmly in place by its rubber seal. I now need to cut a segment away on the lower left to access the wheel. I’m thinking of a 1/4 segment but as the coupler can rotate it might just be easier to cut half of it away? The couplers are only £6 so I can afford to experiment.

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

I think it’s more correct to say that you don’t need a cover if the wheel is made of steel (CBN) or diamond, a standard grit wheel must be guarded.  Even though a metal wheel shouldn’t shatter having a lump of ali or steel spinning at a 2000 rpm odd is not particularly safe!

[VicParticipant @vic]

Agreed. Like all the others I’ve seen, I’m only using diamond wheels like the one in the picture.

[VicParticipant @vic]

I’ve had lots of other jobs to do so no real progress. I did need to use it for another job last week though so I quickly mounted the grinder and rest up. The rest works very well. I will make some of the accessories for the table at some point but I want to sort out some extraction first. It doesn’t need to be anything fancy.

 

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