Gerhard’s Lady Steph

[Gerhard NovakParticipant @gerhardnovak66893]

Having my workshop settled I need to build something. Well that's a lie, I started already during the Christmas holidays… But now I have no excuse.

Unfortunately I do not have any building description, but the plans should do it. So I thought I start with the frame. I tried to get enough material to repeat every part minimum once. Good decision as we will see at the second picture.

I was happy with the precision of the opening for the cylinder pedestal.

This didn't last long, it is quite tricky to cut small threads into thick mild steel.

Here we go, one tap less. And no chance to get it out… By the way it was M1.6, I have a good collection of metric taps and dies, so the lady will be a little bit 'metricized'. I hope she doesn't mind.

Anyway. Another go. This time right. Cabinet base and cabinet top done.

Now it is time for a bit of bling, lower columns.

Also here I was using the spare one, as I ruined the first one by cutting in the flutes. Because of the removal of my machines into my new garage workshop (good bye cold shed, now I have a massive radiator plumbed into the central heating which costs less than the shed heating and doesn't produce water vapour) I had to remove one of the DRO sensors – and I didn.t fix it properly. Means I got some play which ruined my flutes…

Finally I am playing now with the upper columns. I am not sure if I make them round and tapered or square. I started with the square one, as I still had the mill set up nicely for that from the work on the lower columns.

And in the next pictures you can see the outcome.

I think I tricked my phone with the blue background, as the columns are brass. in these photos they look rather like steel.

Yes – this is where I am at the moment, I will give you an update from time to time.
Happy modelling!

 

Edited By Gerhard Novak on 13/02/2022 16:13:20

[Gerhard NovakParticipant @gerhardnovak66893]

Many had a go at this model – now it is my turn…

[Bob Unitt 1Participant @bobunitt1]

Posted by Gerhard Novak on 13/02/2022 16:12:53:

Unfortunately I do not have any building description, but the plans should do it.

There's a full series of construction articles in Engineering in Miniature, in these back-issues :-

1981 November & December

1982 All issues

1983 January

[Gerhard NovakParticipant @gerhardnovak66893]

Thanks Bob,

I did know that. Question is how to get hold of them…

[Bob Unitt 1Participant @bobunitt1]

Try The original publisher, or google engineering in miniature back issues for other sources.

[Gerhard NovakParticipant @gerhardnovak66893]

Bob,

Thanks for the link, I will try it.

[Former MemberParticipant @formermember12892]

[This posting has been removed]

[Gerhard NovakParticipant @gerhardnovak66893]

Again thanks to Bob, was a great hint, will get all 15 issues direct from TEE publishing (some as photocopies) for 36£50.

[Bob Unitt 1Participant @bobunitt1]

I have a file of which component is described in which issue somewhere, I'll see if I can find it for you.

[Bob Unitt 1Participant @bobunitt1]

Posted by Bob Unitt 1 on 15/02/2022 12:02:31:

I have a file of which component is described in which issue somewhere, I'll see if I can find it for you.

Found it, added it to my albums :-

[Gerhard NovakParticipant @gerhardnovak66893]

Thanks a lot Bob, There is a file (excel) at TEE publishing which contains the contents of every article. So in principle I had it, but the list you sent is more detailed, so I am sure it will help.

[HuubParticipant @huub]

I seems (holes are dry) that you don't use tapping fluid. This is killing for your taps.

[Bob Unitt 1Participant @bobunitt1]

Posted by Huub on 15/02/2022 22:22:33:

I seems (holes are dry) that you don't use tapping fluid. This is killing for your taps.

I use a paste called Trefolex that I picked up at an exhibition 25 years ago (!). It still works as well as the day I bought it, and I still have an unopened spare pot.

[Gerhard NovakParticipant @gerhardnovak66893]

Huub and Bob, I actually used WD40 cutting oil. This stuff, even not very thick, does make a change.

Anyway. The postman was there a few minutes ago, and my treasure arrived. Most of the back issues are photo copies, but 4 of them are still the original ones! So now I have something to read…

Edited By Gerhard Novak on 16/02/2022 10:41:47

Edited By Gerhard Novak on 16/02/2022 10:42:55

[Jim NicParticipant @jimnic]

Gerhard

You say you use DW40 as a cutting fluid. If that is a misprint and you meant WD40 then that is a problem. WD40 is a water displacing lubricant consisting of a grease held in a light solvent and is not designed for high pressure situations such as tapping.

In any event, for small threads you need a tapping compound such as Trefolex as mentioned above or I use a liquid called CT 90 which not only helps to cut clean threads but has saved me a fortune in broken taps.

Jim

[Gerhard NovakParticipant @gerhardnovak66893]

Jim,

In the meantime I corrcted the misprint. Also I am aware that standard WD-40 is not a lubricant.

What I am speaking about is WD-40 specialist multi purpose cutting oil. This is not the standard WD-40 everybody has in its tool box.

Gerhard

[Roger BestParticipant @rogerbest89007]

Branded products – always fun working out what they are with the wrong glasses on.

[bernard towersParticipant @bernardtowers37738]

When cutting small threads like 1.6 mm it is a good idea to reduce engagement by upwards of 10 % as we are not talking torque level fittings, nice c/sunk lead in and out the other side as your thread strength cannot exceed the equivalent thread diameter. And use the best cutting oil money can buy (ROCOL RTD) it pays for itself hundreds of times over.

[Gerhard NovakParticipant @gerhardnovak66893]

Well – to Bernard and all the others giving good advice… If I would use my glasses and start with the tap no 1 and not no2 I probably woudn't have broken it….

Anyway. today was the day of the cylinder pedestral. I am quite far, a few holes and threads are missing. But the main dimensions are there and the important flange and hole are done. Should be all straight and level. There are a few traces from the milling which I will file away.

Happy modelling!

Edited By Gerhard Novak on 16/02/2022 21:27:12

[Gerhard NovakParticipant @gerhardnovak66893]

Played with the upper columns today, produced one exactly according to Tubal Canes plan (16 flutes) but I do not like it. the flutes are touching, you get a sharp, cog wheel like structure. May be this is like it was in the past, the flutes were made for strengthening the cast column.

I made one with 10 flutes to see how it looks.

On the photo: square, 16, 10 flutes

I prefer the 10 flute look, so I made six of those. Enough flute milling. My right hand hurts…
Holding the workpiece was a bit tricky and needed a few shims. The top of the column needs to be horizontal, but the column has a taper… I saw some clever tools for that, but I don't have one. So I held it on one side in the chuck of the rotary table and on the other side in a small machine vice. Disadvantage is that you have to open the vice every time you need to change the position for the next flute…

Anyway, they are done. The ends on both sides are still too long, I made them longer to avoid problems of running with the clamping nut of the mill into the chuck of the rotary table.

[Gerhard NovakParticipant @gerhardnovak66893]

Short update. The upper columns and their pedestal pieces are ready. Of course I needed to put all I have together. The screws on the top will of course be changed to something nicer.

 

The entablature was slightly warped, but easy to correct. What is interesting is the change of hardness in the casting. You find everything from soft as butter to hard as a rock…

 

Edited By Gerhard Novak on 27/02/2022 22:06:27

[Mark ReaParticipant @markrea67084]

Just adding my bit here.

Trefelux is for stainless steel.

WD 40 cutting fluid is pretty good.

Rocol RTD is much better it is a paste and can be thinned with WD 40 to make it easier to apply by a small artists paintbrush.

Normal WD-40 will work well on aluminium as will paraffin.

[Bob Unitt 1Participant @bobunitt1]

Posted by Mark Rea on 01/03/2022 09:17:12:

Trefelux is for stainless steel.

Can't find anything called 'Trefelux' on Google, so I assume you're talking about 'Trefolex' ? If so, where did you get the idea that it's specifically for stainless ? I can't find anything on Google saying that, just that it's sold for the 'drilling, tapping & reaming' of 'metals and plastics' (Cutting Compound 2KG (2.5LTR) ByTrefolex). I've used it for years, on everything from nylon to gauge-plate.

[Mark ReaParticipant @markrea67084]

40 years in a machine shop making components for anything from nuclear submarines to formula one racing cars and sewerage pumps. The post was offered as friendly advice from a wealth of personal experience. I apologise if my advice offends you and will happily bow to your superior knowledge from a ten minute Google search.

[Mark ReaParticipant @markrea67084]

Oh, and I do apologize for the typo, yes you are correct, it is trefolex. Have a really great day, you earned it.

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