Gaskets

[Michael MallesonParticipant @michaelmalleson22793]

I am building a 5″g, “Boxhill. This has inside cylinders with the steam chest between, and the question is:-   is oil and water type gasket paper up to the job or must I use something more substantial such as asbestos free material 0.020”  thick? The problem with the latter is that it would leave very tight machining tolerances to fit the whole assembly between the frames without risking the steam ports breaking through into the cylinders. All suggestions welcome, eg, alternative gasket material etc. etc. Thanks in anticipation.

[Michael MallesonParticipant @michaelmalleson22793]

[CirclipParticipant @circlip]

Gloss on one side and rough on the other, the golden oldies always seem to last, Braan paper, the type used for packing parcels, cheap (Yorkshire trait) forgiving and reliable. Use a layer of oil to seat it.

 

     Regards   Ian.

[ChrisHParticipant @chrish]

When I was in the merchant navy we used to make gaskets from chart paper – a thick and stiff paper.  You had to be careful not to nick the Mate’s latest charts otherwise the engine room’s name would be mud!

Chart paper not easy to get ashore, but you get the idea.

Chris 

[Michael MallesonParticipant @michaelmalleson22793]

Hi Ian & Chris. Clearly a good substantial paper has been a common material for this puroose. The 2 Stuart  engines I have (1960’s vintage) are fitted with paper gaskets so it is obviously suitable for high pressure steam. Many thanks, Mike.

[mgjParticipant @mgj]

Circlip – thankyou. genius.

 

You have saved me from a fate worse than death. Assembling a 3″ Little Samson with all that Foliac graphite stuff.

 

I’ll use the .030 gasket material and Foliac to put the cylinder block on, but brown paper and oil seems pretty handy for almost everythng else. 

 

Blue Hylomar is pretty good if used as the packet says, and not just smeared on – but messy.

[CirclipParticipant @circlip]

What most forget, is that if their machining is so crappy that a “shim” won’t seal it, your never going to get things to line up properly cos of variable compression in thicker “Seals”.  “Figure of eight” on the finest Silly Cone carbide paper (OK. Wet & Dry to anyone under forty five -ish) over glass using “Brasso” as the  wetting medium. 

 

    Regards  Ian.

[Michael MallesonParticipant @michaelmalleson22793]

 Thanks for the latest replies, I was hoping that the latest ME would produce more info. Are there any “Boxhill” or “Metro” builders out  there who have overcome this problem? Would love to here from you. Mike

[Norman BarberParticipant @normanbarber28134]

Hello Michael,

 

I am building a “Boxhill”.  The chassis is complete and run on air.  The boiler is finished and tested and the fittings are made.  I am currently making the tanks and superstructure.  I always use brown paper for the gaskets on my locomotives, occasionaly with a smear of Red Hermetite if the bolt holes are very close to the edge of the gasket.  I have never experienced any problems.

 

I have made a lot of modifications, too numerous to list here, to the Martin Evans drawings (which I assume you are using).  These drawings leave something to be desired and in the case of the boiler at least one modification is required in order to satisfy the current regulations – namely the location of the lower water gauge bush.

 

If you are interested in “Terriers” may I suggest that you obtain a copy of the book “Stoudley and his “Terriers”” by Tom Middlemass.

 

Norman Barber 

[Author]

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