Gas options

[colin hamiltonParticipant @colinhamilton16803]

I’ve got a couple of stuck exahust manifold studs and I would like to add some heat to them. I would also like the capability to do some silver soldering/brazing as my model engineering progresses. What would be a good entry point for gas/torch options. I’ve seen some oxy propane kits which use small bottles or would I be better with the sort of plumbers mapp gas torch.

Thanks Colin

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The usual for silver soldering where you want to get the whole assembly upto temperature fairly quickly is Propane with a burner of around 7Kw. Although MAPP burns at a higher temp the torches are smaller so overall heat output is less.

The starter Sievert sets have the right size burner, mate with a 4bar regulator

You can do a bit of Sif brazing with a torch like that provided the section of the metal is not too great otherwise it won’t get hot enough.

For things like studs you probably want a more localised higher temp probably oxy propane but I’ll leave others who have the kit to advise

[john fletcher 1Participant @johnfletcher1]

Regarding the blow lamp and regulator, may I suggest having a visit to a local car boot or auto jumble sale and maybe also finding an empty cylinder there as well. I’m surprised how many set ups I’ve seen for sale, could be that plumbers are using those push on fitting and selling their tooling.

[David JuppParticipant @davidjupp51506]

For things like stuck studs,  you might consider an induction heater as an alternative.

These are great for getting heat quickly into the target without unduly heating adjacent items.

Also no naked flame, so less fire risk.

Probably of limited use for silver soldering etc. especially as they are more effective on a ferrous target.

[Chris CrewParticipant @chriscrew66644]

“could be that plumbers are using those push on fitting and selling their tooling”

I loathe those push-on fittings with a vengeance and plastic piping too! But apart from that, I use a propane torch for most SS jobs, although even the smallest parts seem to absorb or lose a lot of heat if they and not well shielded in a hearth with firebrick or similar.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

You probably know this already, Chris …

The Sievert ‘Cyclone’ burners are excellent.

MichaelG.

[bernard towersParticipant @bernardtowers37738]

I have removed manifold studs before using a stick welder put the electrode on the nd of the stud and the current heats up the stud enough to remove it

[martin haysomParticipant @martinhaysom48469]

how about a carbon arc torch. cheap on evil bay, run mine off a 50 year buzz box welder

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

If your near me then you can use my oxy propane gear or I’ll do it for you – as far as the studs  go. Near Kings Lynn.  For silver soldering use propane. Noel.

[Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116]

Instead of loosening stuck bolts by heating and expanding the surrounding area, freeze the bolt to shrink it using a refrigerant spray called FREEZE-OFF Super Penetrant.

Made by CRC Industries and sold at auto part stores.

See Youtube video  https://youtu.be/ULXahcy0CO0

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

My go-to for broken off studs is left-hand drill bits. Yes they are a thing. You spin them in reverse and drill out the broken stud after carefully centre popping it dead in the middle (well, dead as you can get it!). Start with a smaller drill in the LH set and work up to something just smaller than the root diameter of the thread. Usually (usually!) the remaining stud will start to unscrew itself under drilling pressure during the process. Some heat at the same time, or some heating and chilling with releasing spray a few times beforehand does not hurt either.

Sets of LH drill bits are available online through the usual suspects. Cheap enough too from the right suppliers.

My torch is a secondhand plumbers propane torch bought at a garage sale with a few smaller and larger nozzles and run off the barbecue gas bottle.

[peak4Participant @peak4]

I’ve mentioned is previously, but thus far haven’t had much feedback from others on this forum.
As well as a larger propane torch for a greater heat capacity, as apposed to a small high temperature job, I use oxy-propane for small hot flames.
I couldn’t justify the ongoing cost of bottle rental, though I know there are now rent free cylinders, so I went for a second hand medical oxygen concentrator, for about the came cost as a bottle deposit.
Mine came off Gumtree, for about £100, but other sources are available.
I use a small lead soldering torch, sometimes with specific oxy-propane nozzles, as well as a full size one.
Not enough oxygen for cutting, either in terms of volume or pressure, but fine for small heating jobs.
Glass bead makers often use this combo, so have a look at Tuffnell Glass for more ideas.

https://www.tuffnellglass.com/contents/en-uk/p3918.html

I’ve not got round to trying it yet, but also have a couple of large butane bottles from an old portable heater;
This link suggests that it might also be suitable for small precision jobs, in the summer or a warm workshop at least.
https://www.dentaltix.com/en/stag/oxy-butane-fgr-750-butane-and-oxygen-equipment

 

Bill

[colin hamiltonParticipant @colinhamilton16803]

Thanks everyone for the replies. I’ve decided to not worry about the model engineering options just now as I’m not actually that far along with my learning so I’m just going to concentrate on getting the exahust studs out. I was having a go at the yesterday. It’s a Honda C90 so the studs are only m6. I think I might just weld a nut on the stud ,say a m10 so I can get a decent sized spanner on it in the hope the welding adds sufficient heat? I’ve also ordered some plusgas.

[JohnFParticipant @johnf59703]

Have a look at Bullfinch torches, British made, full easy service and repair if needed,  I have used these for nearly 50 years now and find them excellent — only needed the repair service once, the ignition system failed on one unit.

https://bullfinch-gas.co.uk/blowtorches/autotorch-2300

 

[colin hamilton]

On colin hamilton Said:

Thanks everyone for the replies. I’ve decided to not worry about the model engineering options just now as I’m not actually that far along with my learning so I’m just going to concentrate on getting the exahust studs out. I was having a go at the yesterday. It’s a Honda C90 so the studs are only m6. I think I might just weld a nut on the stud ,say a m10 so I can get a decent sized spanner on it in the hope the welding adds sufficient heat? I’ve also ordered some plusgas.

If you are a good welder you can do that.

If you do want a torch for such basic jobs, one of the little ones that clips onto a spraycan of CampingGaz etc from Halfords etc will do the job and very inexpensive.

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