Fitting Ikea Kitchen Units – Me workshop wall is on the way.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Its not the edge but the gap behind, you should run a solid row of Dabs (not dots) along the top and also at the bottom, double row if tall skirting.

No the Caulk is flexible so takes up movement between plasterboard and say solid wall or wall and ceiling.

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

I see running along the top edge to be on the back Jason but your mention is clearer.

Just to be totally clear Wickes jointing compound that it seems can be used for caulking is nothing remotely like decorators caulk. It sets hard, sticks rather well going on a few odd bits and is rigid. It sands well too. I need to look to see where my sandpaper perforating plate is for my sander. That should keep the dust down.

John

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[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

I've more or less finished up with a solid layer of adhesive behind the board I have stuck on. That was a heaped tablespoonful about every 4 to 5" or so. If I do the new wall this way I'll do the same thing but at about 6". It's easy to dot the board. I looked at some pro demo's on youtube after doing it – a wedge of adhesive every 300mm or so and it tapped home and level way to easily for my liking so no thanks. The builder I would trust with any job said press it home really hard so I'll stick to that.

I've ruled off plaster before so I tried a different approach. Stuck the stuff on any old way, ruled it with a silverline feather edge as I had found a darby a little to flexible. Excess plaster was scraped of the feather edge and added to the wall. Then sprayed a little bit of water on and ruled it again. The results had some lines as I couldn't move the feather edge smoothly. I then used a float on it after it had firmed up. The finish isn't too bad, problems are down to me so can do better next time. It took just over an hour to go firm. One coat mixed so that it just about held a 2 to 3" peak. I'm told that one idea of a 2nd coat is to keep it fairly thin and use it to even out the surface rather than try to lay a thickness. Next step after I extend the current bit. I only mixed from 1L of water to try it out.

Also tried some easi-fill. Mixed rather thickly it's more like the old Wickes jointing compound. About as stiff as craft chees slices when they can't be spread on bread. It shrinks a little even when like that but there wont be much sanding. I'll stick with 2 coats of the Wickes stuff under that for jointing.

The easi-fill was the 60min stuff but I'd say it's shortermixed like this. I wanted 45min and B&q showed stock of exactly what I wanted. When I got there they didn't have it. It can be bought in 5x1kg packets. Had to have a bag which I could have bought just down the road.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 05/12/2016 21:07:55

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

The ruled off plaster hasn't gone too badly but will need another coat so be interesting to see if a thin coat and pressure works out. Worst part is where the plaster underneath bulged out so the feather edge more or less scraped it off. If I ever do anything like this again I'll take all of the plaster off. I did on one side but being determined to get a decent finish with plaster I didn't on one side. It's taken a day for a section to dry – sections 'cause I under estimated the amount of plaster. Twice! I was sure the one before the last would do it but the wall must have been way more out than I thought.

I just stuck some of the corner tape down with PVA. Had a problem. A 2.8m length is difficult to handle so had to cut it in half. The ends didn't behave well but managed to get away with it. I should have asked some one to hold the other end. I used the waterproof PVA with just a drop of water added to stop it drying too quickly and coined the paper down flat with the metal strip first with my finger nails. Also the edge of a scraper when it was up. It seems to have sucked down a bit while drying and looks nice and tight.

I'll make sure there is some one around when I do the other edge. Just did the one in case it didn't work out.

Not sure what to blend in with but am tempted to use board skim plaster rather than easi fill cause that is more of filler and plaster can be sanded too. This is also why I'll stick to Wickes jointer for joining tidied up with easi-fill.

I've bought a role of fibre paper having noticed a comment that it soaks up paint well. So the lot will get covered with that plaster board and all and then diluted paint or pva. It can be used directly on plaster board.

The gas work took up some time watching them. Finally one of our 2 meters is disconnected, one circuit no longer used so the meter can go. Sod then stepped in. We had a gas leak. For some reason one of flexible leads to the meter decided to leak. Rather badly. They came and fixed it within an hour of using the gas leak phone line. I did have a feeling at times that we could smell gas before the work was done. Interestingly when the meter was changed to one of the smart ones we did have a legal leak. Looks like that was the work done changing the meter and it decided to get a lot worse.

I wont be able to do any more for most of this week. Other things call that can't be avoided.

Might get to actually fitting an Ikea unit at some point. We have one to get an idea of what they are like but several will be needed for a trial fit. My wife said a while ago that she doesn't mind if the kitchen is in a mess over Xmas. It probably will be.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 12/12/2016 00:03:52

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