As you have found, they are close, but there is enough meat in the taper for them. It needs carefully measuments when turning the boss, I nearly made them too small and had the same problem.
As you have found, they are close, but there is enough meat in the taper for them. It needs carefully measuments when turning the boss, I nearly made them too small and had the same problem.
Fortunatly the tapered wedges cover any viewing.
Ian
Yes they certainly are close but as you say due to the taper there is plenty of meat for the screws to hold them in.
Managed to get the Fly wheel locking collars completed and could not resist a part dry fit with they in place.
I have been putting off cutting a test tube to complete the oiler for the engine. So I tried to use a glass tube cutter which failed, and it shattered, so a good clean up and vacuum got rid of the broken bits. Next I wrapped the tube in some masking tape (I have about ten tubes as that was the minimum I could get at the time) this was gently gripped in the lathe yet strong enough not to slip, a Dremel was used with a small diamond disk and a short section soon parted ways from the tube. This section was rubbed on some very fine wet and dry paper to get rid of any sharp edges (With the tablets I am on if a cut myself it takes forever to stop)
As most of the parts were already made from brass, the only other part was the control needle, which is from silver steel (tool steel depends on where you are in the world). This needed a point on one end and then cut to length and fixed into the top adjustment piece.
The complete oiler ready for the engine once completed as there are still bits that need making. Without measuring it I would say between 1 1/4″ to 1 1/2″ tall.
A question about the oiler if you make your own what do you use to seal the glass tube to prevent oil leaks
A couple of models I have made supplied cork “washers” about 1/32″ thick. But gasket paper would probably do as would liquid gasket, you can get a clear one.
A couple of models I have made supplied cork “washers” about 1/32″ thick. But gasket paper would probably do as would liquid gasket, you can get a clear one.
Glad you are enjoying this build. Things have slowed a little as one part I am remaking for the third time down to my silver soldering I have followed numerous people and still managed to stuff it up, I will get there in the end.
Not done much lately. But I have made a start on a fuel tank. Turned the main body and ends which is a cylinder at the moment need to make a filler cap and fuel cut off outlet.
Tank sitting on two blocks which will become the supports
The supports cut from a larger piece which had some holes luckily the hole shown is machined out
Here I had machined out the bulk of what was not needed ready for some shaping.
After machining the curved section, they are now a lot shorter but still leaving enough room for an outlet from the tank.
By machining them instead of using solid blocks makes for fixing to base and tank a lot easier as well as lightening the appearance of them.
A test fit of one of the supports, not sure which will look better, the foot facing in or out. Facing in would give a little more room for the outlet if I need to work on it when it is complete.