Farm Boy

[Ian HewsonParticipant @ianhewson99641]

Hi

As you have found, they are close, but there is enough meat in the taper for them. It needs carefully measuments when turning the boss, I nearly made them too small and had the same problem.

Fortunatly the tapered wedges cover any viewing.

Ian

[Ian Hewson]

On Ian Hewson Said:

Hi

As you have found, they are close, but there is enough meat in the taper for them. It needs carefully measuments when turning the boss, I nearly made them too small and had the same problem.

Fortunatly the tapered wedges cover any viewing.

Ian

Yes they certainly are close but as you say due to the taper there is plenty of meat for the screws to hold them in.

[Ian HewsonParticipant @ianhewson99641]

Couple of pics of my finished Farm Boy.

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

Very nice Ian. I hope mine turns out like that

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

Managed to get the Fly wheel locking collars completed and could not resist a part dry fit with they in place.

I have been putting off cutting a test tube to complete the oiler for the engine. So I tried to use a glass tube cutter which failed, and it shattered, so a good clean up and vacuum got rid of the broken bits. Next I wrapped the tube in some masking tape (I have about ten tubes as that was the minimum I could get at the time) this was gently gripped in the lathe yet strong enough not to slip, a Dremel was used with a small diamond disk and a short section soon parted ways from the tube. This section was rubbed on some very fine wet and dry paper to get rid of any sharp edges (With the tablets I am on if a cut myself it takes forever to stop)

As most of the parts were already made from brass, the only other part was the control needle, which is from silver steel (tool steel depends on where you are in the world). This needed a point on one end and then cut to length and fixed into the top adjustment piece.

The complete oiler ready for the engine once completed as there are still bits that need making. Without measuring it I would say between 1 1/4″ to 1 1/2″ tall.

 

A question about the oiler if you make your own what do you use to seal the glass tube to prevent oil leaks

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

A couple of models I have made supplied cork “washers” about 1/32″ thick. But gasket paper would probably do as would liquid gasket, you can get a clear one.

[JasonB]

On JasonB Said:

A couple of models I have made supplied cork “washers” about 1/32″ thick. But gasket paper would probably do as would liquid gasket, you can get a clear one.

Thank you, Jason

[Blue HeelerParticipant @blueheeler]

Thoroughly enjoyable thread.

[Blue Heeler]

On Blue Heeler Said:

Thoroughly enjoyable thread.

Glad you are enjoying this build. Things have slowed a little as one part I am remaking for the third time down to my silver soldering I have followed numerous people and still managed to stuff it up, I will get there in the end.

 

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

After two failed attempts at the governor assembly, I manage to silver solder the two arms on and now happy with the outcome.

Now onto some other small parts and a base for it to sit on so that I can attach the flywheels.

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

After making some pins I am able to do a test fit of the governor assembly hopefully this makes a little sense where thing go

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

Not done much lately. But I have made a start on a fuel tank. Turned the main body and ends which is a cylinder at the moment need to make a filler cap and fuel cut off outlet.

Tank sitting on two blocks which will become the supports

The supports cut from a larger piece which had some holes luckily the hole shown is machined out

 

Here I had machined out the bulk of what was not needed ready for some shaping.

After machining the curved section, they are now a lot shorter but still leaving enough room for an outlet from the tank.

By machining them instead of using solid blocks makes for fixing to base and tank a lot easier as well as lightening the appearance of them.

A test fit of one of the supports, not sure which will look better, the foot facing in or out. Facing in would give a little more room for the outlet if I need to work on it when it is complete.

 

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

More work on the Fuel tank. First a little late I managed to get both stand uprights completed all except the fixing holes. As well as the end cap fixing screws.

 

Onto today drilled the filler hole and fuel outlet this was threaded 1/4″ x40. Turned some brass for the outlet elbow and did the same method as I did for the carbaretor elbow by milling at 45deg most of the way through heating and bending before silvers soldering.

Twisted the tank upside down to show outlet pipe in position. I need to take apart to clean swarf out of the inside

 

 

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

Now that I have the tool which I showed in another thread, I have managed to get into the workshop with orders from the wife just to give me a break from my other duties.

The tool I speak of is the spring winder I now have the valve springs made for the engine. I may remake the valves again as I am not happy with them.

Anyway, picture of the valves, springs and caps. This is the first attempt at making springs

 

[Dalboy]

On Dalboy Said:

[…] This is the first attempt at making springs

That looks very encouraging

MichaelG.

.

P.S. __ I do like your fuel-tank supports.

[Michael Gilligan]

On Michael Gilligan Said:

On Dalboy Said:

[…] This is the first attempt at making springs

That looks very encouraging

MichaelG.

.

P.S. __ I do like your fuel-tank supports.

Thank you, Michael, I did have to think of the best way I was going to fix the supports I could have used a solid support, but I felt it would look too heavy for the size of the tank.

[Author]

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