Emco FB2 and Maximat Mill?

[beeza650Participant @beeza650]

I’d really like an Emco FB2 milling attachment for my new (to me) V10P. I’ve posted on the Emco Facebook page and the groups.io site but no luck so far. I’m looking at eBay and Facebook. Is that all my bases covered do you think?

I’d take the 4 speed Maximat to tide me over if the right one came up.

On a different note, what are my options to get a used tooling bundle for the Maximat V10P please?

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

You are really only likely to get a “bundle” of Emco tooling and accesories when bought with an Emco lathe. Very unlikely to come up as just a bundle and what does occasionally show up will be sold off a ssingles as that is where the money is to be made. Certainly was the case with th ebits I bought for my Emcomat, I never found a set of change gears and painda lot for just a fixed steady.

Same applies with the milling head/column/bracket as an item it will likely be sold with a lathe as a “bundle”. You will have more chance finding a complete FB2 but best to use that as a stand alone mill. Europe will turn up more Emco stuff than just UK sources.

However unless you need any of the actual lathe specific accessories most other items are generic and can be use don any lateh such as Ctrs, drill chucks, cutting tools, etc

[DiogenesParticipant @diogenes]

What do you mean by ‘a used tooling bundle’ – tell us what you are lacking?

 

[Diogenes]

On Diogenes Said:

What do you mean by ‘a used tooling bundle’ – tell us what you are lacking?

 

Well I have the lathe (Emco Maximat V10P), the main bits “missing” from Emco is a travelling steady and the mill attachment. I’ve got 3 and 4 jaw chucks, fixed steady, faceplate, fixed centres, keyless chuck and a quick change tool post – oh and a chunky taper attachment.

What I don’t have is an MT2 live centre, any MT2 drills, virtually nothing to cut or bore with, no knurling goodness, nothing really…do I buy new from China on Amazon or Temu or second hand branded stuff off eBay. What do I need when I just starting out…I’m not sure, and I’m not sure how soon I’ll need more than the basics either. A “bundle” of stuff could be a good way to get kitted out better price.

 

[PeteParticipant @pete41194]

MT 2 tail stock tooling is easy, since so many other lathes use that same taper.  Although I’d very much suggest that buying on price alone usually doesn’t work out well. The same for any cutting or knurling tools. Knurl wheel quality is 100% related to the quality of the knurls it will produce. Poorly formed knurls of low quality can not produce good quality knurling on any material.

The traveling steady would be a bit tougher, if you want directly fitting, then the correct Emco part would obviously need to be found on the used market, and it probably won’t be cheap. Adapting one from a similar sized lathe might be possible, but it depends on how your lathe was designed to bolt the original in place and how any other brand of lathe did the same.

Without already having a separate mill, then yes the 6 spd rear mounted mill would be highly desirable. But any mill is just about useless without the additional tooling. The correct direct mount collet chuck and collets, as well as either a OEM vise or one that’s sized well enough to still be clamped to the tee slotted cross slide would be the minimum. Again any of the original Emco items are likely going to be tough to source and expensive. I’d also want a correctly sized clamping kit with tee nuts, bolts, studs step blocks etc. But there’s generic kits of those that should fit. My memory is a bit hazy for what spindle mount those milling heads used. And afaik, Emco didn’t sell any low quality ER collets for there mills, mine are made by Schaublin and were expensive. But the run out numbers match the price. If I recall correctly, I believe Emco used ER 25 series collets on those mills. For whatever reason, Schablin seemed to use the prefix ESX for there own ER 25 collets. But the dimension’s are exactly the same.

Finding a tooling “bundle” with the correct sized tooling to fit your Emco might be doubtful. Other than finding original Emco accessories, your in the same position as anyone buying what you have when the machines were brand new. Any additional tooling is always directly linked to what type and size of projects your doing.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

What I don’t have is an MT2 live centre, any MT2 drills, virtually nothing to cut or bore with, no knurling goodness, nothing really

As I said all of those are generic items and do not have to be Emco. Upto you what you buy be it new imported or old second hand. A bundle is likely to include stuff you don’t need or is past its best, I would by reasonable quality imported as and when you need it rather than rushing out and getting stuff you may not need.

As for a traveling steady it depends what you are going to be doing. I have not found the need to use one in 40years others may get more us eout of them. Likewise I don’t use MT Shank drills, a 13mm keyless chuck doe sfor me and takes “blacksmith” bits upto 25mm.

Don’t worry too much about finding an EMCO vice to fit the cross slide, several people with them have made a milling table which gives you a bigger area to mount work to and then you can place the fixings to suit any vice.

[JasonB]

On JasonB Said:

What I don’t have is an MT2 live centre, any MT2 drills, virtually nothing to cut or bore with, no knurling goodness, nothing really

As I said all of those are generic items and do not have to be Emco. Upto you what you buy be it new imported or old second hand. A bundle is likely to include stuff you don’t need or is past its best, I would by reasonable quality imported as and when you need it rather than rushing out and getting stuff you may not need.

As for a traveling steady it depends what you are going to be doing. I have not found the need to use one in 40years others may get more us eout of them. Likewise I don’t use MT Shank drills, a 13mm keyless chuck doe sfor me and takes “blacksmith” bits upto 25mm.

Don’t worry too much about finding an EMCO vice to fit the cross slide, several people with them have made a milling table which gives you a bigger area to mount work to and then you can place the fixings to suit any vice.

Hmm….ok then – anyone got some “blacksmith” drill please? (although I’d prefer MT2) 🙂

I know of an EMCO vice but it’s quite pricey. I hear what you’re saying about the table being a bit small. Do people just get a maaaasssive piece of cast iron and find some friendly machine shop to grind it flat then? Bet that ends up heavy.

I’ve asked for a set of starter 10mm insert cutters for my birthday 🙂

I can see with, with a lathe there’s not so much to think about it – mills it’s a WHOLE different ball game – ouch!

Yes, collets would be great too though that’s one thing I def won’t be buying new.

Cheers Oliver

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The reduced shank drills known as “Blacksmith” drills are a lot more versatile, you can hold them in a drill chuck, hold them in a lathe 3-jaw chuck (would need MT3 otherwise) and hold them in collets. The Blacksmith part does not mean they are rough, cheap or nasty.

Yes old Emco accessories are expensive and scarse. No need for a massive lump of iron, remember these add on milling columns are made for light work so any mounting plate can be sized to suit. A piece of 20mm steel or even cast aluminium tooling plate (quiet flat) can be used. Easy enough to bolt to the slotted cross slide and mill it flat in situe if needed. Drill and tap a series of holes rather than milling tee slots. Don’t go silly on the size but you could usefully increase the available area by 100-150%

Not a lot wrong with new collets and at least you know they have not been misused. What are you going for MT2 finger collets or the more versatile ER system of holder and collets?

Rather than a starter set of insert holders some of which you may not use or can have onscure inserts money would be better spent on say 3 or 4 useful types to get you up and running. A right hand tool will do most of your turning and facing, a left hand tool facing and the hard to reach back faces and a boring bar will finish the holes roughed out by drilling. If you ensure all three take the same type of insert then you only need keep a supply of one style, I suggets CCMT/CCGT shape. Then the last remaining tool is a parting tool which I would suggest the 19mm blade type that takes an easily available GTN-2 type insert.

[JasonB]

On JasonB Said:

Rather than a starter set of insert holders some of which you may not use or can have onscure inserts money would be better spent on say 3 or 4 useful types to get you up and running. A right hand tool will do most of your turning and facing, a left hand tool facing and the hard to reach back faces and a boring bar will finish the holes roughed out by drilling. If you ensure all three take the same type of insert then you only need keep a supply of one style, I suggets CCMT/CCGT shape. Then the last remaining tool is a parting tool which I would suggest the 19mm blade type that takes an easily available GTN-2 type insert.

Thanks for that advice – what about internal and externa thread cutting and a chamfer tool?

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Depending on what you intend to do they may not be needed for some time as taps and dies are more than adequate in the smaller sizes. If you do have a need to cut more non standard or larger threads then add 10mm external and internal holders to the list. Again ones that take the industry standard inserts not obscure ones.

Regarding the inserts again depending on what your are making you are likely to need at the minimum 60 and 55deg internal and external partial form inserts. As the need arrises you may want to add other thread forms or consider full form inserts but not necassary to splash out on all the different ones from the start.

As for chamfering easy options are to swing the toolpost around so the edge of an insert is at 45deg. Use a file against the rotating work to knock off an external edge on smaller items, insides being done with a deburring tool. If you are doing a lot of chamfers then a separate tool may be of use either one that takes the earlier mentioned inserts or very easy to grind a bit of HSS to a 90deg point and use that for both internal and external chamfers

[Author]

Posts