Posted by Steviegtr on 09/01/2020 15:53:00:
It may be that the motor as in this picture. Is power rated at 550w = 0.75hp. But takes 5.1A of power because of the losses discussed by some above.
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I read the plate thus:
The motor is continuously rated "CR" to deliver 550W, probably out. (On an electric motor only the power output and running limitations are meaningful. A reputable motor maker like Parkinson is likely to respect this by putting output watts on the plate. Unfortunately, it's not unusual for sales persons and even some decent makers to quote Input Power instead. Rule of thumb electric motors are 80 to 90% efficient, so the difference may not matter much.
The relationship between power-in (whether expressed in amps or watts) and power-out is limited mainly by how hot the motor is allowed to get. Depending on age, older motors were rated to run at between 80 and 120C because their insulation failed above that temperature. Modern insulation is rather better, perhaps allowing 160-180C or even as high as 220C. As the power output of an electric motor is limited by heat, it's possible to find the same motor with different plate values. The higher output motor will be time limited, look for look for IEC Duty Ratings labelled S1 to S10, or perhaps Service Factor (a measure of permissible overloads.) My grinding wheel is rated 400W out S3, which means 'Series of identical duty cycles each a constant load for a period, followed by a rest period. Thermal equilibrium is not reached during the cycle.' On my grinder this means 400W out for about 15 minute, them about 15 minutes rest, ie a 50% duty cycle. One of the differences between a hobby lathe and a professional machine is the motor. The professional motor is likely to be a hefty monster capable of delivering full output round the clock, whereas the hobby can only be run in bursts. Not a problem unless the owner tries to use his hobby lathe for heavy production work, in which case he's likely to cook the motor.
The 5.1A probably indicates the absolute maximum current the motor should be allowed to draw. It's allowed briefly when starting or for short bursts during operation, and can be used to size fuses and contact breakers etc. It's not a target.
The other information is that this is a 240v 50Hz AC single-phase motor spinning at 1425rpm. Not ideal for a machine tool, because single phase motors are somewhat unreliable, vibrate, can't be speed controlled, and don't like continuous stop-start operation. I prefer DC, Brushless or 3-phase motors. That said, Myfords have used motors like this Parkinson for 80 years and most users find them OK. Ditto Hoover!
Generally speaking motor plates aren't very reliable, ranging from accurate and informative through useful guidance down to outright lies. Motors recycled from domestic equipment may not be lablelled at all – what they're capable of is a secret between the manufacturer and his motor supplier. Take all motor plates with a pinch of salt!
Fortunately, for most practical purposes a motor of about the right physical size and voltage will do most amateur jobs OK. In case of doubt just make sure the motor doesn't get too hot – smoke is bad!
Dave