Eagle Surface Grinder – weight of parts

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

A new thread so that anyone who buys one of these has an idea of the weights when dismantled.

Pic is on another Eagle thread. Models are not all the same, so apparently a variation between 305kg for the Mk1 and another 50kg for the Mk5.

Item Weight (/kg)

Base 98 (included the rear cover)

Column 60 (bare – and yes Dave, no great problem for me to lift it on, and off, the workmate for tidying/painting🙂 )

Knee 42 ( included shaft and screw, but not the wheel or bottom nut for raising the knee)

Table 33 (included the rack)

Cross slide 31 (excluded screw and shaft, gear and feed screw nut)

Head 30 (excluded the 4 covers; included the spindle, less nut)

Motor 18 (included the mounting bracket)

Sundry parts 20

That lot adds up to 332kg, so 354kg brought home (with the chuck). All weights rounded to nearest kg.

The 14” x 6” Eclipse magnetic chuck, that came with it, weighed 22kg (my 10” x 5” example is 11kg, btw)

——————————-

Sundry parts included 4 covers and the spindle nut (with flange) for the grinding head; Gibs; table travel shaft and gear; 3off winding wheels (3.4kg); bellows with metalwork (1.9kg); covers and brackets; 3.5kg of nuts, bolts and screws; and the starter + conduit + leads (they will not be used) which weighed 3.4kg.

A bit more than Pete’s suggestion in an earlier thread!🙂

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

An aid for anyone moving one of these.

[Pete RimmerParticipant @peterimmer30576]

I did say it was a guess – mustn't know my own strength 😀

Good to have a figure put against it, as you say it will be handy for future enquiring minds.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Posted by Pete Rimmer on 19/11/2020 23:02:07:

I did say it was a guess – mustn't know my own strength 😀

Good to have a figure put against it, as you say it will be handy for future enquiring minds.

I was going to write that ‘you must be fit and strong’ – but one has to be careful that what one writes on the internet is misconstrued in this age of ‘peculiarities’.🙂

It was always more than your guess, from when I found the machine weights on the net – but the weight of that base might put off people moving it in a small car. My little Pogo 106 managed it very easily in two trips (but I had dropped off the table, motor and chuck at home, on my way back to my friend’s yard).

Unloading the base, with the motor fitted, from my car would have been more challenging for me. As it was, it was fairly straightforward. My friend used his teleporter, for handling, at his end.

I expect Dave (SOD), for one, would have avoided even trying to manhandle a machine such as this. I may yet need to use a bit of mechanical aid to position the knee, while securing it on the machine, but all the rest will be handraulic.

[Robert TretheweyParticipant @roberttrethewey]

I'd say these were very accurate – In bringing an Eagle SG made by Dronsfield back from it's previous owner I had to triple brace my hoist to lift the machine off a pallet I'd bolted it to for transport. That would make it on or just under 375Kg

Does anyone know when these machines were made as I've just acquired a Model 3 serial no 3628 I'm assuming that makes it their series 3 number 628 of that series.

Bob Trethewey – Audiologist Shillingstone Dorset

[Robert TretheweyParticipant @roberttrethewey]

I've checked the cross and vertical screws for accuracy and found them both within acceptable limits once I've removed the backlash – did you do anything about the backlash on your machine.

My machine when being stripped for rebuild is painted BT call box red internally but grey externally was your machine similarly painted.

Bob Trethewey

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Hi Bob,

Mine was in particularly good fettle. It was stripped for installation, so that I could shift parts from van to operating position. I painted mine in Smoothrite dark green (the original Hunter’s formula). It had previously been “splash” painted in a shade of grey, by a previous owner.

The Lathesdotco site provides quite a bit of historical info.

**LINK**

The video below shows a machine with the type of head (drive arrangement) of my machine. Mine is a ‘dry’ machine but I may arrange some wet cooling (probably only spray) in the future, as keeping the wheel/ workpiece cool is one definite important factor in surface grinding!

**LINK**

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

I have no specific knowledge of the eagle, though I used one as an aprentice but one thing that is vital is the proper balancing of any wheels used. Having had a wheel come off due to bad balance and on another occasion ruin a job at the crucial moment,when it came loose. After fitting a new wheel to a machine and trying to true it – only to make it worse due to serious out of balance I bought a J&S wheel balancer and found this wheel so far out that it was not possible to get it even near ! Only buy from a reputable company and make sure that the bushes supplied are of the correct size for the machine and wheel. If you don't have access to a balancer its worth making up a set of ways, it will be better than nothing ! Noel.

[Pete RimmerParticipant @peterimmer30576]

Noel the Eagle grinder has wheels which mount directly to the arbor on the shaft, rather than fitted to a hub which then mounts to the shaft taper as most grinder have, so whilst it is always a good idea to balance a grinding wheel there is sadly no facility for it on the Eagle grinder.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Pete,

I expect the wheel balance can at least be checked by removal of the drive belt. Rough balancing could be achieved that way, but obviously not the ideal solution (as per the more expensive machines).

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