Dismantling an Elliott Progress drill

[Sunny SinghParticipant @sunnysingh]

Hi all,

I've recently bought a Progress 1S (floor-standing pillar drill) off eBay, and I was hoping someone can help me figure out how to dismantle it.

So far, I've separated the column from the pedestal. Now I'm struggling to get the head of the drill and the steel column apart.

I've removed a bolt (shown in the image in the red box), and I'd hoped that this would allow me to slide the head off the column, but nothing budges. Is there something else I should be removing? Or is it rust that's stuck the parts together?

Cheers!

[Sunny SinghParticipant @sunnysingh]

[Ian ParkinParticipant @ianparkin39383]

Put the bolt back in but dont tighten it…give it a tap with a hammer and that should push the nut away from the column.

then twist the head on the column to break any rust.use penetrating oil ( plus gas is my fave) if it wont twist

then it should lift off

[VicParticipant @vic]

On my Bench model that bolt is an Allen bolt that holds two wedges in place. As said, replace the bolt and give it a tap with a hammer to loosen the wedges.

[Sunny SinghParticipant @sunnysingh]

Posted by Vic on 10/03/2018 13:15:44:

On my Bench model that bolt is an Allen bolt that holds two wedges in place. As said, replace the bolt and give it a tap with a hammer to loosen the wedges.

Hi Vic – yes! I found those two wedges, too. Both came out. Even with the drill lying on its side, and the wedges removed, the column just doesn't shift at all:

[Sunny SinghParticipant @sunnysingh]

Posted by Ian Parkin on 10/03/2018 12:50:38:

Put the bolt back in but dont tighten it…give it a tap with a hammer and that should push the nut away from the column.

then twist the head on the column to break any rust.use penetrating oil ( plus gas is my fave) if it wont twist

then it should lift off

Hi Ian, I've got the drill on it's side (sitting on bubble wrap). The column doesn't shift at all, even with the holding bolt completely out. The top of the column has got plenty of surface rust. I can try the penetrating oil there?

[Ian ParkinParticipant @ianparkin39383]

It may be best to put it back on its base and stand verticle and dribble penetrating oil from above and then stand on the base whilst twisting…once it twists it’ll lift off

Edited By Ian Parkin on 10/03/2018 15:23:05

[HacksawParticipant @hacksaw]

Just looking and the thought of twisting it off , has given me back ache !

Watching with interest anyway, as i have a similar Elliot drill . They must have made thousands of these for schools and light engineering shops . There is slack in the bearings on mine , it wanders ….will they be taper roller or ball bearings ? Please keep posting photo's of your dismantling and rebuild !!

[Sunny SinghParticipant @sunnysingh]

Posted by Ian Parkin on 10/03/2018 15:22:05:

It may be best to put it back on its base and stand verticle and dribble penetrating oil from above and then stand on the base whilst twisting…once it twists it’ll lift off

I think I'll try some WD40 Fast Release from the top then, and where those holding wedges were. I'll try it as is first – not looking forward to lifting it back onto the pedestal…

[Sunny SinghParticipant @sunnysingh]

Posted by Ian Parkin on 10/03/2018 15:22:05:

It may be best to put it back on its base and stand verticle and dribble penetrating oil from above and then stand on the base whilst twisting…once it twists it’ll lift off

I think I'll try some WD40 Fast Release from the top then, and where those holding wedges were. I'll try it as is first – not looking forward to lifting it back onto the pedestal…

[Brian WoodParticipant @brianwood45127]

Hacksaw,

I have the same model, bench mounted. The bearing are all ball bearings, not taper roller

Sunny Singh,

I would try knocking the column out from the bottom, with liberal applications of easing oil as well, A good weight hammer and solid block of wood to stop bruising the metal should push it out far enough to clean up the rusty top which you should then be able to push back out as you expected

Regards

Brian

[Andy HoldawayParticipant @andyholdaway]

Hacksaw,

On my Elliot the quill has a split outer race angular contact bearing (LDJT25) and a plain ball bearing at the top. The first price I got for the angular contact bearing was frightening (£250). I later found one for £70.

Andy

[Sunny SinghParticipant @sunnysingh]

Posted by Brian Wood on 10/03/2018 17:20:25:

I would try knocking the column out from the bottom, with liberal applications of easing oil as well, A good weight hammer and solid block of wood to stop bruising the metal should push it out far enough to clean up the rusty top which you should then be able to push back out as you expected

Thanks Brian, I'll probably give that a go before attempting to put the column back into the pedestal, like others have suggested

[HacksawParticipant @hacksaw]

If it's a split bearing can it be shimmed up or adjusted at all? Mines not particularly noisy , just a smidgen of lateral play . Then again , the table may not be square on ..I noticed a bolt under the table to adjust it . It was secondhand ,it's no doubt been pillar to post before i got it . It wanders towards the front in use , never sideways .

[Brian WoodParticipant @brianwood45127]

Hacksaw,

I think you will find the bolt under the table allows you to clamp the table at an angle to the quill, mine also sports a dowel pin hole there to restore a perpendicular condition

I replaced the bearing on my quill maybe 55 years ago and I don't recall split bearings, in fact they were all quite ordinary bearings that were easily available at the time and not that expensive either. The issue I have lived with all this time is some side location slop of the quill in the main housing and when it matters I nip up the quill clamp a trifle to squeeze the gap and largely take it out.

Regards

Brian

[MeunierParticipant @meunier]

Sunny, I have a similar but older and heavier Progress, ten yrs ago it was as much as two of us could manage to even lift the separated head unit although, like your pics we didn't think of removing the motor first…
Found the only way we could manage was to lay the whole thing down on the floor then dis-assemble. Re-assemble in the reverse order. It is then relatively easy to mount and tighten the head to the column, then lift by the head and bring the whole lot upright, much easier than trying to lift the head 'overhead' and set it on the column.
DaveD

[Andrew Gibbins 1Participant @andrewgibbins1]

I've just been reassembling mine this evening, exactly the same as yours – a No.1. Lots of oil and a knock with a wooden block under a lump hammer and the headstock came off the pillar ok with mine.I need to lubricate the bearings in the quill on mine as it has a kind of squeak. However, it's fairly tight so don't think need new bearings. I'm assuming they're greased. I took the 3 phase 1/2HP motor off my Dore Westbury miller and it fits perfectly. Today is the first time the drill has run in 10 years (in a squeaky sort of a way). I do love the solidness of these old machines. All best, Andrew.

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