Dial Gauge

[COLIN MARTIN 2Participant @colinmartin2]

I wonder if anyone can help me with a problem with my ancient Baty dial gauge? The revolving bezel which zeroes the setting is very stiff and is almost seized; is there any way of removing it to clean it and getting it moving again?

 

 

Thank you,

 

Colin

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Some photographs would probably help, Colin

The decrepit Baty that I have beside me at the moment clearly had a single grubscrew holding the knurled ring … and I presume from the question that yours does not.

Sorry, I have no idea how many styles they made

MichaelG.

[COLIN MARTIN 2Participant @colinmartin2]

Hi Michael,

Mine does have a small hole that may have contained a grub screw, but there is no screw in the hole and the bezel does not come off.

 

Cheers,

 

Colin

 

 

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Excuse the state of this one, please Colin

It should probably be in the bin … but the .0005” resolution mechanism still works nicely, and I’m loathe to throw it away [story of my life]

MichaelG.

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[COLIN MARTIN 2Participant @colinmartin2]

Thanks for the picture Michael, it is similar to mine. The good news is that I have found the grub screw! It took a magnifying glass and good light but it is there.

 

Thank you for your help.

 

 

Cheers,

 

Colin

[JohnFParticipant @johnf59703]

Colin, I recently refurbed a Baty dial gauge and it had 3 screws accessed via a single hole in the bezel so rotate to each screw and remove. Generally you do not use oil on the mechanism, mine needed a new glass/crystal as well

John

[COLIN MARTIN 2Participant @colinmartin2]

Thanks for the heads up John, I’ll look for !ore screws!

 

Cheers,

 

Colin

[JohnFParticipant @johnf59703]

Colin, There was another discussion about dial indicators a short while back so have a look here it may be useful !

Dial indicator disassembly

John

[COLIN MARTIN 2Participant @colinmartin2]

Thank you everyone. I removed the bezel and found why it was stiff to turn – the DTI was full of swarf. Anyway, the upshot is that after cleaning it out, I still cannot get the bezel to turn because the aluminium on the dial is worn, as is the body, and I have free-play on the needle which means that it does not stop at the same place each time, so I believe that the poor old thing is toast.

Can anyone advise me what would be the best replacement, a new Chinese one or another old British one? I have been using the Baty for thirty years, and I bought it from a work colleague who was retiring, so it has done Stirling service.

 

Cheers,

 

Colin

[Bo’sunParticipant @bosun58570]

Good morning Colin,

My first port of call would be to look on that well known auction site for a used non-Chinese one if that’s important.  Occasionally, some “never used” ones turn up at a reasonable cost.  I’ve bought a couple in the past with no problems.  Good images of what’s for sale normally tell a story.  Good luck.

[COLIN MARTIN 2Participant @colinmartin2]

That is where I am looking. BTW, what does ‘half travel’ mean in relation to a DTI?

 

 

Cheers,

 

Colin

[COLIN MARTIN 2]

On COLIN MARTIN 2 Said:

… and I have free-play on the needle which means that it does not stop at the same place each time, so I believe that the poor old thing is toast.

Can anyone advise me what would be the best replacement, a new Chinese one or another old British one?

…

 

Cheers,

 

Colin

All good things come to an end, and it sounds as if this poor old Baty has come to it.

Best thing to do is sell it on ebay, in hope of making a few bob from Bosun!

There isn’t a straight answer to new Chinese versus old British.   The question is flawed because it assumes these are two clearly separated classes, and they’re not.    Assuming they are both in as new condition, a well-made Chinese DTI will outperform a too-cheap British model that’s somehow survived from yesteryear.   Equally, a mollycoddled expensive British DTI of the same age will outperform a modern ‘too cheap’ Chinese DTI.

The truth is, for the same money, new Chinese versus old ex-industrial British is about the buyers attitude to risk.  Like as not an older DTI has been exposed to a multitude of experiences, and even if it hasn’t been dropped or rammed, oil is likely to have gummed up, and there’s probably some dirt and corrosion – it needs a service!  Bottom line is that the value of a second-hand tool depends on it’s condition, which depends on it’s history, which is unknown.   Chaps who recommend buying old kit are gambling with your money, and beware gamblers, because they never admit failures!

My attitude is different.   I don’t care about country of origin or year of manufacture at all.  When I bought a DTI I wanted an affordable model that worked out of the box, that could be replaced or refunded in the event a lemon arrived.   I chose to de-risk the financial transaction by buying new.  I chose not to risk buying a posh second-hand DTI because these are more trouble to sort out if the purchase goes wrong.   My choice, others are allowed to go the other way round.

Think about country of origin too!   Choice is much wider than old UK vs new Chinese!    I believe Kennedy are still made in the UK, and I’ve heard a rumour Starrett, Mitutoyo, Verdict and others make acceptable DTIs too.

What we mean by ‘affordable’ is individual choice too.   I like to buy new, mid-range tooling, because this mostly avoids buying ‘too cheap’ whilst also paying over the odds for high-end kit that’s completely over the top in my workshop.

I wouldn’t agonise over it: the analysis of my requirement points to buying a new not too cheap DTI so I can get on with the job, rather than hopefully searching ebay for a bargain, that might turn out to be a dud.    In other circumstances buying second-hand is low-risk.

Dave

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Possibly, the deternmining factor is whether or not the DTI is consistently repeatable.

For centering work in a four jaw, the objective is get the work so that the DTI shows no, or an acceptable level of, deviation from the setting point, (Presumably set to Zero, to show deviations more easily)

If used with a Height Gauge, repeatability becomes more important, so that the Zero set , (With a master or gauge blocks?)  repeats when the Height Gauge is reset to measure the difference from the original “Master” Zero setting.

After all a D T I is an Indicator, rather than an actual measuring device.

Howard

[COLIN MARTIN 2Participant @colinmartin2]

Thank you for the replies. I have bought a new DTI made by Insize, which was advertised on eBay; it seems well made and worked very well and cost me £25. In time I will find out if I have a bargain!

 

Cheers,

 

Colin

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Please do let us know how it goes, Colin

I have just looked at : https://insize.com/Production.html

and am very impressed by the range of products they have.

MichaelG.

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Edit: __ I like this page too !!

https://insize.com/AboutUs.html

[COLIN MARTIN 2Participant @colinmartin2]

Yes, to me, as an amateur, the DTI looks and feels very good quality, so I am very pleased at the moment.

 

 

Cheers,

 

Colin

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