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I’ve also bought a calliper with a mechanical dial gauge which is easy to read to 0.01mm, accurate enough for my uses, and uses no batteries at all !
Oh no it isn’t! Mitutoyo calipers are better than most, and their very best models are only good for ±0.02mm. Lesser Mitutoyo calipers are an honest ±0.03mm.
Apart from the mechanical restrictions shared by all calipers, dial calipers allow extra user mistakes to creep in, such as parallax error. Reading a pointer requires much more care than reading a digital display.
When it comes to claims of accuracy I have major doubts about the hobby. I think we can all get close to ±0.02mm with a micrometer, but claims to be better than that are dubious.
If a hundred Model Engineers were each asked to bore a 10.00 mm diameter hole 10mm deep in a 25mm brass rod, whilst a second group of 100 were told to each make a 10.00mm diameter brass rod 20mm long, then trying to fit them together after stirring in a box would be shocking. Only a few pairs selected randomly the box from would be a reasonable air-tight sliding fit, all the others would anything between a loose rattle fit, or a hammer required job.
Haven’t made a piston and cylinder for years. However, although both were bored and turned initially to measurements, no measurements were taken to fit them. The fit was achieved by lapping, removing tiny unmeasured amounts of metal, and using the piston and cylinder as comparators. No need to know what their actual sizes are accurately, they only need to fit together.
Dave