D H Gipsy mk1

[David KParticipant @davidk77137]

Hi Clive, I have not got the advantage of using CAD, I will learn one day , so I just tend to trust the drawing and get on with it. The length of the valves gave me a problem , I had to make some more about 2 tenths longer.

Already bought the oil pump gears and fitted them , seemed ok and camshaft is made and fitted.

I have not written down any errors , nothing major just a couple of figures written down with the decimal point in the wrong place ie. 0.12 instead of 0.012 .

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

This was just posted over on MEM forum, makes a change to the usual stand and prop though it is shown with a prop at the end.

[Clive BParticipant @cliveb55652]

Hi David, Thanks for your reply. After a little head scratching I'm now happy with the dimensions given in the original camshaft drawing, so that's good and now it's time to cut some more metal.

I mentioned the gears as I couldn't locate a 10T 32DP gear with 0.375" OD as specified. I could only find a 9T gear with this OD and corresponding PCD.

Looking forward to the next update on your build.

Regards,

Clive

[David KParticipant @davidk77137]

Hi Clive ,, yes your correct , I have just checked my oil pump and they are 9T Gears.

Bought my gears from HPC Gears 

Edited By David K on 08/03/2020 19:45:24

[David KParticipant @davidk77137]

That's ace Jason, always someone who goes one better.

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

What a work of art ! Do they run inverted and if so how do you stop the lube oil from gathering in the back of the piston ? Asked this question at RAF Cosford, but no one could tell me. Many thanks Noel

[Lee RogersParticipant @leerogers95060]

Posted by noel shelley on 08/03/2020 22:44:27:

What a work of art ! Do they run inverted and if so how do you stop the lube oil from gathering in the back of the piston ? Asked this question at RAF Cosford, but no one could tell me. Many thanks Noel

The answer is you live with it. Mags off and a couple of careful pulls through on the prop before you try to start it. An experienced person would know by the feel of it that all was well or not so. Starting on a cold morning was often far from easy, all part of the fun. What you wouldn't want to hand swing was a metal Fairey prop , tough on the hands.

[David KParticipant @davidk77137]

Turned some valve guides

I turned the valves a section at a time to help minimise flex in the material

Once complete a fine skim and polish before parting off

Valves complete with collets and caps , springs were bought items.

[David KParticipant @davidk77137]

Inlet manifold , started with a piece of solid stainless

Machined the shape out on the mill

Turned the inlet stubs

Then finished them on the mill

[David KParticipant @davidk77137]

Made a jig to hold the stubs ready for Silver solder

Then soldered in the bottom plate ,

I soak in citric acid and then polish

[David KParticipant @davidk77137]

Started to mill out the end casing

Boring the oil pump

Silver soldered the oil pump gear to the drive shaft

[David KParticipant @davidk77137]

Tapping for the inlet/outlet unions

The end case and parts ready for trial fit

[David KParticipant @davidk77137]

Turned some brass parts to make the oil line unions

Silver soldered the parts

Made a jig to join the unions

Some extra pipe work

[David KParticipant @davidk77137]

Made some union bolts

Milling the hex

A quick polish

Fitted to the engine

[David KParticipant @davidk77137]

Made some union bolts

Milling the hex

A quick polish

Fitted to the engine

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Impressive work and rapid progress!

Neil

[Bryan Cedar 1Participant @bryancedar1]

Beautiful work which I could not come near to, but should the lower pipe under the sump not be routed under the mid position pipe closer to the sump which would look much better?

[David KParticipant @davidk77137]

Hi it is routed as the plans described , I presume this is how they route on a full size engine.

Also i think the angle of the picture makes it look a little more untidy.

[EmgeeParticipant @emgee]

Hi David

I am not certain but guessing that on the full size any such pipes would be clipped at one or more points to avoid damage by vibration, same with fuel lines and electrical cables, not good to have any of those damaged.

Nice work on the engine.

Emgee

Edited By Emgee on 18/06/2020 13:41:26

[SteviegtrParticipant @steviegtr]

Brilliant work Love it.

Steve

[David KParticipant @davidk77137]

I milled the cooling fins on the sump underside

then drilled through for the sump plate

The sump plate and oil union made from stainless

These are the parts to be fitted to the sump

The oil feed from the pump runs through the sump before running up to the main bearing

[Steve AddyParticipant @steveaddy35670]

Lovely!

Steve

[David KParticipant @davidk77137]

While i was soldering the oil lines i cut some brass tube and made the oil filler and

breather pipe.

[David KParticipant @davidk77137]

Casting for the carburettor was a little rough looking

Tried to tidy it up as much i could while opening up the float chamber and bore

The float chamber is a dummy so the fuel runs directly to the jet and metered by a needle.

I made these from stainless and also a brass float chamber lid and butterfly.

Carb and manifold

[David KParticipant @davidk77137]

Spark plugs , i can buy 1/4 32 plugs but they are quite expensive so i had a go at making my own.

Started with some steel hex bar , Corian offcut for the insulator and some 1mm tungsten rod for the electrode.

I first turned the body leaving a little extra for the electrode, i would have threaded them but i realised i did not have a 1/4 32 die so i ordered one

I milled around the electrode and then undercut with a small diamond disc

I then used a flat bottom cutter to drill through to the undercut and form the electrode. The body was then counterbored using a drill and leaving a taper for the insulator to seal against

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