Cutting O1

[Steve355Participant @steve355]

That is really interesting Michael, thanks. A much simpler design than I was contemplating, basically a fence and a clamp.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Here’s a useful photo of one in action, Steve:

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/gallery/myford-saw-attachment.43817/

 

MichaelG.

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

Water jet cutting leaves a slightly tapered edge. Not sure if this matters to you

[Kiwi BlokeParticipant @kiwibloke62605]

…errr, no-one’s mentioned fitting a cutting disk onto the surface grinder (with suitable adapter) and using that. Small down-feeds and make sure the cut is outboard of the edge of the mag chuck! Is that such a silly idea that no-one mentioned it?

[Steve355]

On Steve355 Said:

…I realised that making something that can secure a tang that is potentially only a few mm wide so it can be cut with conventional milling, isn’t an easy task.

The blade is for a wood plane.

In the woodworking world from which the tool originates, there is a workholding device called a featherboard, used on table saws, router tables, spindle moulders, planers, etc.

If you make it out of wood, it will allow you to cut it to the exact width necessary for the job the first time you use it.

[Steve355]

On Steve355 Said:

A much simpler design than I was contemplating, basically a fence and a clamp.

The Myford saw table is a good suggestion. I hope it is clear that on the attachment, the table is fixed to the cross slide of the lathe and thus moves in and out relative to the blade. That is why the stock can be clamped firmly to the table.

Again, in the woodworking world, it is analogous to a sliding table panel saw.

The set up would work on your mill. If you wanted use it on the bandsaw, you’d need to make a sub-table that can be pushed across the one shown in your photo.

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

If you’ve a horizontal mill I’d thought that the obvious choice – accurate cut and a finish needing little or no cleaning up beyond de-burring. Alternatively use a vertical mill with the material clamped to an angle-plate.

You might need bet a bit ingenious with the clamping if the stock is wider than the table slots; e.g. using a piece of old laminated chipboard (ex-cupboard material) as an extension table you can also saw into.

Yes, a bit slow but no worse than any other method.

‘

Shearing? No! Anything capable of shearing 3mm plate, in any metal, is very much an industrial machine and most likely power-driven. Even a hefty treadle guillotine such as those that were (are still??) made by Edwards struggle with their rated maximum of 1.5mm thick mild-steel sheet.

Ordinary horizontal / vertical band-saws such as the ubiquitous badge-engineered ones sold by Machine Mart etc. will cut the material easily enough, but their vertical mode does not allow you to lower the blade-guide to just above the material. I find it sometimes easier and more accurate to use mine in that mode, without a fence, guiding the material free-hand.

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Or use a cutting-disc in a 4.5″ angle-grinder and clean up the edges by milling!

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For some years my work sometimes involved sawing two-foot squares of 1/4″ gauge-plate into four squares. On a manually fed, vertical bandsaw, with freehand work guiding. It took a while!

[Alan DonovanParticipant @alandonovan54394]

Hi.

If you have a vertical miller available, how about placing the workpiece in a vice, (vertically with long side horizontal, with free ends suitably supported) and use a slitting saw to cut your slot.  You may have to finish the very last bit with a hacksaw!  The machined ways in the vice base would be your datum, thus ensuring a parallel cut.

Another suggestion, for a horizontal miller.  Bolt flat down on the table, against suitable datum stops, and allow the slitting saw to break out into a Tee slot.

Best regards.

Alan

[Steve355Participant @steve355]

Well…. My new bandsaw blade came and it did indeed cut the O1 pretty nicely. BUT …. not cut straight. I mean, it’s fairly straight, but it needs to be properly straight. I spent more time trying to clean it up with a file and the surface grinder than I saved by using the bandsaw. Anyway thanks to whoever made the suggestion, it was a good idea in theory.

Also, it left behind an edge on the waste, which was similarly not straight, which causes a problem for the next plane blade I want to make from that piece of O1.

I think I’m back to making the jig.

Here’s the cut metal, with its 3/32” tang. Not an easy cut to make. Most that I do are not that skinny, but they still need to be straight.

 

[Steve355Participant @steve355]

So…. Jig made today, see below. It worked pretty well. It held the work far more firmly than I’ve been able to before, resulting in much better and quicker cutting. I think this will be V1.0 of the jig as I work out what exactly I need it to do and tweak or remake it to fit requirements.

I had real trouble with the aluminium. I’ve barely worked with aluminium at all before. I had several stripped holes and 2 broken taps. Perhaps someone has some tips.

The new bandsaw blade was in fact helpful too for various trimming tasks so I don’t regret that either.

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