Cutting face coupling teeth

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Cutting face coupling teeth

Home Forums Workshop Techniques Cutting face coupling teeth

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  • #694480
    Adam Harris
    Participant
      @adamharris13683

      I have a Schaublin 53 Hi Speed head that has a dog clutch style drive gear. I want to use this head on a different mill and so want to cut a face coupling drive shaft on an SK 40 shank. The 14 teeth are straight sided, the sides slope at 10 degrees, and the top of each tooth is 4.5mm wide and the tooth is 10mm tall. I have the drawing from Schaublin but do not know how to link pdf into this text :(. Is this tooth profile a known standard form whose circular cutter can be purchased, should I cut it with a square end mill in several passes and then use the same end mill to profile the  side slope by tilting the dividing head by 10 deg with some more passes, or any better suggestions?Schaublin 53 hi speed head drive connector

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      #694487
      Adam Harris
      Participant
        @adamharris13683

        The photo is of the female coupling – I am making the male coupling so when I say the tooth tip is 4.5mm wide, in this photo it is the tooth trough that is 4.5mm wide

        #694509
        Diogenes
        Participant
          @diogenes

          Can you take a straight ‘end-on’ view – it’d be really helpful to see the true shape and relationship of tooth edges vis a vis those (~diametrically) opposite – I have seen similar couplings formed by straight cuts on a chord close to the centre, stepping the part round gradually generates the cheek angles on the dogs..

          ..not to say that it will turn out to be this simple but might be worth seeing if it’s a possibility.

           

          #694517
          JasonB
          Moderator
            @jasonb

            I’m a bit confused by “The 14 teeth are straight sided, the sides slope at 10 degrees”

            Do you man that the radial edge are angled making the trough narrower than the top of the gap? In which case you may be able to find a tapered flute milling cutter if the angle is calculated.

            Failing that rough out with a standard cutter and then set up on a dividing head set at the correct angle and cut either side of the teeth

            It is possible to put a PDF in a gallery, just create a “document” one and then you can put the link in a reply

            #694519
            Michael Gilligan
            Participant
              @michaelgilligan61133
              On Adam Harris Said:

              […] I have the drawing from Schaublin but do not know how to link pdf into this text 🙁

              […]

               

              From your Profile page … create a Gallery, of the type ‘Documents’

              Put the pdf in there … Then [preferably] put a hyperlink in your Post

              [ alternatively just describe where it is ]

              MichaelG.

              .

              Edit: __ Jason beat me to it

              #694541
              DC31k
              Participant
                @dc31k
                On Adam Harris Said:

                …should I cut it with a square end mill in several passes and then use the same end mill to profile the  side slope by tilting the dividing head by 10 deg with some more passes

                While this is possible in principle, it might be very difficult in in a practical sense, because the pivot point/fulcrum of the tilt would need to be at the intersection (vertex) of the two sloping sides.

                If you pivot about some other point, you then have to move the cutter in additon to the angular displacement (it is very similar to how you would cut bevel gears by the parallel depth method).

                The 20 degree included angle tapered endmill suggested by Jason makes the set up a lot simpler. You can keep the spindle centred over the dividing head’s rotational axis and just offset in X or Y when using the tapered cutter. Creating a 4.5mm wide straight-sided slot will leave the tapered cutter little material to remove.

                If you know of someone with a cutter grinder, it might be possible to make a horizontal milling cutter with 20 degree included angle. If you went slowly, a flycutter tool in the horizontal spindle might also work.

                What is on the other end of the piece you show in the photo? Maybe making a whole new shaft with a simpler coupling would be less work than trying to make something to fit Schaublin’s original.

                #694575
                Adam Harris
                Participant
                  @adamharris13683
                  #694592
                  JasonB
                  Moderator
                    @jasonb

                    I would say that drawing shows a 10deg INCLUDED angle eg 5deg each face not 10deg

                    So you would want a cutter to this spec

                    53

                    #694599
                    Adam Harris
                    Participant
                      @adamharris13683

                      Jason you are absolutely right – thank goodness you corrected me. And many thanks for the link to these cone milling cutters. I don’t immediately see one with min (tip) diameter of 4.5mm but I will give them a call tomorrow. I can grind one down to arrive at 4.5mm

                      #694601
                      JasonB
                      Moderator
                        @jasonb

                        You would probably do better to rough out with a 4mm dia cutter and then do each side in turn with a tapered cutter just offsetting as required which will also allow you to fine tune the fit using your existing part as a gauge. Risk with a 4.5mm ended one is that if it cuts a bit over width the ends may bottom out rather than getting contact on the faces.

                        Work out what the flute length is on something with say a 3mm minimum dia to keep the price and shank dia down and provided it will do the length you need go with that.

                        #694606
                        Adam Harris
                        Participant
                          @adamharris13683

                          Jason I don’t really understand what you are saying there. Surely a single pass with the exact profile cutter will avoid any errors and give the perfect match.

                          #694608
                          JasonB
                          Moderator
                            @jasonb

                            It is quite possible that the cutter will deflect sideways particularly if trying to take it all out in a single pass so you are unlikely to get an exact cut with an exact cutter.

                            #694623
                            Adam Harris
                            Participant
                              @adamharris13683

                              I see. Thanks

                              #694636
                              DC31k
                              Participant
                                @dc31k
                                On Adam Harris Said:

                                Surely a single pass with the exact profile cutter will avoid any errors and give the perfect match.

                                That would work in a horizontal mill, with a horizontal cutter. Indeed, the cutter Schaublin used is noted on the drawing in ‘Outillage’ as 53301. Maybe see if your source for the drawing could look on a dusty shelf somewhere and see if there is a spare one.

                                If you tried to cut that in one pass with a tapered end mill, you would need it to be end cutting in order to form the base of the tooth. That is not a given with the cutter you can buy and considering the cost of the tapered cutter, I would be doing everything I could to ensure the longevity of the skinny end on it. How many 4mm slot drills could you buy for the cost of one tapered cutter?

                                If you needed a T-slot in something, the standard way would be to run a slot drill down the T-slot first, slightly deeper than the ‘head’ of the T and then follow it up with the T-slot cutter proper. Doing it this way gives the (relatively expensive, relatively delicate) T-slot cutter a much easier time as it is only cutting on the sides, not trying to cut on the sides and base simultaneously.

                                #694638
                                JasonB
                                Moderator
                                  @jasonb

                                  I don’t see the need for end cutting as you would not be plunging

                                  A traditional end mill is not end cutting but will cut a flat-bottomed slot so the taper sides ones will do too.

                                  Though you would have to carefully do any regrinding to ensure the end does not rub, usual way is to grind at a slight angle and ensure the lowest part is at the edge of one of the cutting edges.

                                  #694656
                                  Adam Harris
                                  Participant
                                    @adamharris13683

                                    Jason what do the four triple upside-down triangle symbols in the drawing mean? Two of them are linked by a symbol ++ (meaning?) and three are linked by the number 13b (meaning?)….

                                    #694657
                                    Adam Harris
                                    Participant
                                      @adamharris13683

                                      And then along the text box there is a double upside-down triangle followed by a triple upside-down triangle in brackets then 18 in a circle???

                                      #694666
                                      JasonB
                                      Moderator
                                        @jasonb

                                        They relate to the surface finish and or tolerences

                                        https://werk24.io/knowledge-base-technical-drawings/surface-finish

                                        #694676
                                        bernard towers
                                        Participant
                                          @bernardtowers37738

                                          The Clarkson cutter I have has a nose of 1/8″ and is end cutting so they must be out there somewhere.

                                          #694681
                                          Michael Gilligan
                                          Participant
                                            @michaelgilligan61133

                                            Curiosity took me here: https://conicalendmills.com/

                                            … but the distribution network appears not to stretch to this side of the pond

                                            MichaelG.

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