Cutting a small I beam frim

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Cutting a small I beam frim

Home Forums General Questions Cutting a small I beam frim

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  • #278298
    Chris Hammond
    Participant
      @chrishammond37041

      Hi all

      I need to make a small i beam out of mild steel bar stock. (L) 700mm x (d) 20mm x (w) 15mm.

      Would you recommend small cuts either side single pass with a roughing 4 flute, followed by a finishing cutter?

      Or do a side to depth then flip it over? Worried about warping.

      How do i get that radiused inner profile – with a ball nosed end mill? Any help much appreciated.

      Chris

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      #25007
      Chris Hammond
      Participant
        @chrishammond37041
        #278301
        vintagengineer
        Participant
          @vintagengineer

          I would use a horizontal mill or the same type of cutter in a vertical mill. It will give you a better finish. I would cut one side then the other and straighten it if needed.

          #278305
          Chris Hammond
          Participant
            @chrishammond37041

            Thanks vintageengineer – I don't have a horizontal mill – I have a Chester Cobra hobby mill.

            It has a long table though.

            #278307
            Bill Davies 2
            Participant
              @billdavies2

              If it's bright mild steel, skim each face equally, possibly in a couple of passes, to get rid of the stresses in the outside 'skin'. It will still move a bit, so you might still, as vintageengineer says, need to straighten, but it would be much less.

              I had a stab at making drilling vice many years ago, cutting out the central section on a horizontal mill without skimming the outside, and was amazed how far the work 'moved' when I removed from the vice.

              Bill

              #278325
              John Reese
              Participant
                @johnreese12848

                Shars sells corner radius end mills. I assume Shars sells in the UK.

                #278326
                John Reese
                Participant
                  @johnreese12848

                  I wrote this in another post:

                  If I were making the I beam I would use a long bar for a fixture, Cut a groove to accept the raw material, grub screws on one side to force the stock to one side of the groove. Provide hold down clamps at intervals to hold the material against the bottom of the groove. Move the hold downs as needed to let the cutter pass.

                  The traditional I beam has a 1:6 taper on the inside of the flanges. Newer wide flange or H sections have parallel flanges. If you want to do the tapered flanges you will need a form tool as your mill can not nod the head. If you know someone with a Deckel style tool grinder it would be quite simple make a single lip form cutter out of a drill blank. Cut the groove with a standard end mill and finish the flanges with the form tool.

                  I hope this was helpful.

                  #278335
                  JasonB
                  Moderator
                    @jasonb

                    I would use hot rolled (black bar) for what you need 16mm square would be about the smallest section to start with.

                    First get rid of the scale by leaving it in brick cleaning acid from builders merchants for 1/2 – 1 hour until the scale has flaked off. reason is the scale will blunt cutters.

                    Make up a fixture as described above and first rough down to overall size taking alternate passes off opposite sides.

                    The rough out the groove followed by finishing cuts.

                    Radius corner cutters are easily made from an old cutter that has started to blunt, just grind a small radius on the corners freehand and away you go. You can also buy tapered milling cutters that could also have their corners knocked off. I often use this method when fabricating or cutting from solid when I want to simulate cast or forged parts. The fillet around the oval flange and also the cylinder end flanges show a fillet formed like that. There really is no need for fancy grinders and exact grinding.

                    One other option for the tapered flanges if you don't want to get or make a tapered cutter is to simply tilt the work (and fixture) by the required angle which is easily done by adding a packer under one side

                    This is setup for a 3.6degree taper you would just use the side of the cutter against the flange rather than cut the bottom.

                    J

                     

                    Edited By JasonB on 17/01/2017 07:53:39

                    #278343
                    Chris Hammond
                    Participant
                      @chrishammond37041

                      Thanks all, this is most helpful stuff. I appreciate you taking the time to reply.

                      #278344
                      Chris Hammond
                      Participant
                        @chrishammond37041

                        Anyone know of a reasonably priced stock supplier for smaller sized stock? Or would somewhere like eBay be a better bet?

                        Thanks.

                        Edited By Chris Hammond on 17/01/2017 09:08:57

                        #278357
                        JasonB
                        Moderator
                          @jasonb

                          I use this e-bay seller for black bar etc

                          M_Machine also do black bar and many other ME materials

                          #278371
                          Chris Hammond
                          Participant
                            @chrishammond37041

                            Thanks Jason.

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