Hello Chris,
I was just about to send to you, but the website thought differently and wiped the whole message, no hope of getting it back it seems.
As I am replying on a number of things I will explain back gears as well. They provide a further spindle speed reduction on the smaller hobby lathes and some others where the lowest spindle speeds generally available are just too fast for screwcutting or the machining of large diameter workpieces. With the range you have built into the headstock gearing, there is no need for this lathe to include that refinement. What you are short of are the higher speeds for turning smaller diameter work, the range is 23 rpm to 450 rpm in 8 steps and 450 rpm will not give a decent finish on stuff smaller than 3/4 inch or so in diameter. Horses for courses I'm afraid. This machine was built for larger work and would do that superbly.
As for flushing out the headstock, I have no ideas at this stage. A drain plug and fill level plug would both be useful, they might be hidden in the change wheel enclosure. I guess the headstock could hold as much as 2 gallons of oil; it will only be basic SAE 30 at most, modern technology oils and additives might not suit the bearing materials
I had to give up beekeeping years ago on medical advice after showing worrying signs of over-reaction to stings, the last one restricted my breathing and I was told it would need adrenalin and oxygen treatment to combat further exposure.
There is someting rather rewarding about working with bees with the sun on your back, I was really sorry to have to give them up. Today I get a similar level of satisfaction, in nice weather, from dry stone walling, a skill I have been developing for >25 years now.
In my time we extracted honey by spinning the combs., the empties went back to the bees to be cleaned up, a job they did with consummate ease. Beeswax went through a solar 'furnace' to both melt and bleach it so I am rather intrigued by your honey press concept.
The extra change wheels you have found. If you could list them in tooth count, including the doublet, I will see what other gearing possibilities I can come up with for screwcutting. Until you can free off the other selector, with the wheels I have seen, you are limited to 8-14 tpi inclusive as presently fitted. With the 60T and 30T swapped over the range is then confined to 2, 2.25, 2.5, 2.75, 3, 3.25, and 3.5 TPI; hardly the most useful in my opinion.
And while you are compiling that list, measure the diameter of one of them so that we can work out which Diametral Pitch [DP] they are to help search for future supply. The relationship linking those factors is DP = (N+2) divided by diameter in inches, where N= tooth count; it will be a whole number like 12,14 or 16 DP. The pressure angle for the gears of that vintage will be 14.5 degrees. The auction site ebay is a good place to look, but you need to know what specification is appropriate to match those you have; ie DP such and such PA 14.5 degrees. I won't burden you further with more than that, it is all part of gear technology..
Thanks for your email address, I'll take some pictures a little later this week to further your education. I have sent a test mail just to confirm contact at this stage, that way you can paste mine into your address book if you want to.
Best wishes for now, I have some washing up to do or face a bollocking when my wife gets back from Tai Chi, she is teaching tonight and the force will be with her!!
Brian