Compressor oil.

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

.

I have a newish compressor. It's obviously of far eastern origin and I have seen the same one several times just with different branding on. (this one is branded Michelin)

I 'think' it's this one :- **LINK**

The original documentation that came with it stated that the original oil should be replaced after about 2 hours of 'running in' with one of ???? grade.

But I cannot find that documentation. Has anybody any idea what oil would be suitable.

Cheers, Nick

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

[Jens Eirik Skogstad 1Participant @jenseirikskogstad1]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFS5NDQg8hg

 

 

Edited By Jens Eirik Skogstad on 05/02/2015 14:54:30

[Jens Eirik Skogstad 1Participant @jenseirikskogstad1]

http://www.shell.com/global/products-services/solutions-for-businesses/lubes/products/types-oils-lubricants/compressor-oils.html

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Pop down your local Machine Mart and get a 1lts or 5lts can, its got "compressor oil" on the lable

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Sorry to hijack, but as the question has been answered, what sort of spec of compressor do folks use in their workshops? More to the point, what sort of compressor would suit the average user (i.e. one suitable for paint spraying and occassional light use for some air tools (say pumping up a tyre or a pneumatic wrench, not running an angle grinder or air hammer 24/7)?

Neil

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The one Nick linked to would do that sort of thing like tyres or a cleaning blower. But if you want to use it a bit more often or run rotary tools then its worth thinking of a larger one as they run a bit quieter and only need to fill the tank occasionally.

I have used one that size with a 1/2" drive impact wrench but its running nearly all the time so better off with something around the 8cfm FAD size or more

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 05/02/2015 15:10:21:

Sorry to hijack,

Neil

.

You ain't as far as I can see. It's related and anything that promotes forum activity has got to be a good thing for the site / community. ………………….. Right.?

Nick

[Nick_GParticipant @nick_g]

Posted by JasonB on 05/02/2015 14:58:35:

its got "compressor oil" on the lable

I suppose that would be considered a good clue.

Nick

[pgk pgkParticipant @pgkpgk17461]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 05/02/2015 15:10:21:

Sorry to hijack, but as the question has been answered, what sort of spec of compressor do folks use in their workshops? More to the point, what sort of compressor would suit the average user (i.e. one suitable for paint spraying and occassional light use for some air tools (say pumping up a tyre or a pneumatic wrench, not running an angle grinder or air hammer 24/7)?

Neil

I bought one of the lidl 'parkside' compressors when I bought this farm. It was cheap enough (under £100) and quite apart from being invaluable for tractor tyre repairs, blowing out the chainsaw and running sanders and rust scalers it's small enough to park in the shed and blow rubbish off the mill and lathe. The tank's big enough that once it's filled itself I can turn it off and have enough air stored for swarfing ( switch on compressor, fire up laptop, light woodburner,put aay last night tools, switch off compressor). I;ve never used it for spraying but have no doubt that the right gun would be fine

[martin perman 1Participant @martinperman1]

I use a 7.5 cfm compressor for driving small tools, an orbital sander, air gun, die grinder, snips, hammer gun and a nail gun for taking paint off of castings which does use up the air but I supplement this with a truck brake tank which extends the running time and also takes longer to fill but it doesn't bother me as its not regularly used, not used it for spraying yet.

Martin P

[Gordon WParticipant @gordonw]

I have a cheap (sub £100 ) one, it does most things well enough. I don't think they are good for spraying paint, maybe with oil and water traps fitted they would be OK. Good for oil , creosote etc. I have run air tools such as wrench and hacksaw but the motor is going most of the time. If I was starting out from scratch I would get a big one and use a lot of air tools.

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

I use a 7.5 cfm compressor from Machine Mart (bought on VAT free day, usual disclaimer ) for general use, one of my intentions is to rig it up for mist coolant system that I've got in mind for the mill & lathe plus a take off for running little oscillators, Stuarts etc. .. when I get round to starting them.. had the kits for over a year now, just never got round to starting them… .. ho hum!

The one I have… **LINK**

A bit in the noisy side but does what I want it to.

George.

[Bob Brown 1Participant @bobbrown1]

Compressors are inefficient as most of the energy put in comes out as heat, as far as spec for a workshop, it comes down to what it is going to be used for. I have a 2.5hp belt driven machine which is a lot quieter than the direct drive machines although still not what one would call quiet. It will do all of the jobs I need it for but may be a little small for a large spray job or any serious sand blasting.

Bob

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

The small compressor we have at work has the entry in the handbook, use ASE 30 oil, which to me sounds like normal engine oil. Makes a lot of condensation so needs regular blow out from the valve at the bottom of tank. If you do not blow down regularly the quick detach couplings soon fail as does the pressure switch.

Clive

[Rik ShawParticipant @rikshaw]

I have an ALDI special branded PowerCraft. 2.5hp and 25litre capacity compressor which I use mainly for blowing out work after machining. The handbook recommends changing the oil after 50 hours operation but although the machine is around two years old I am still in the "I'll get round to it sometime" phase. Recommended oil is SAE 15W/40.

I have used it for sandblasting stuff – again with ALDI kit – and although it made the thing wheeze a bit, it coped.

It's noisy but I'm married so it doesn't bother me!

Rik

[oldveloParticipant @oldvelo]

Hi

Go with a synthetic oil for your compressor for the best performance and protection.

A bit more expensive than a straight mineral oil.

Stay clear of motor oils for as there is no benefit in using a multigrade detergent oil.

Eric

[martin perman 1Participant @martinperman1]

Several years ago I was given an old industrial compressor and tank powered by a 3ph 3hp motor, I acquired a single phase 3hp motor and fitted it and set it all up and switched it on, the motor was fitted with a centrifugal switch so run up reasonably quickly, no sooner was it running when my wife appeared at the garage door and said that her television had reduced its picture to a little white dot so we went in doors and found the TV working ok, so back to the garage and I started the compressor again to the tune of its doing it again, I never did tell her it was me causing the tv to go awol I just made sure I always had plenty of air and ran the compressor when swmbo wasn't watching her box.

 

Martin P

Edited By martin perman on 05/02/2015 19:57:58

[Jens Eirik Skogstad 1Participant @jenseirikskogstad1]

Nick, after 2 hours running in and compressor oil is renewed, the next compressor oil will be renewed for each 50 hours and check/blow clean or change airfilter under normal maintenance. Empty water from air pressure tank periodically.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Thanks for the thoughts.

John, I know what you mean, but I'm specifically thinking along the lines of an 'under the bench' machine for occasional use to solve a few awkward tasks, not a workhorse.

Neil

[Bob Brown 1Participant @bobbrown1]

Neil,

May be you are thinking of something like this **LINK** , would be OK for a blow gun and small spray gun/air brush, mist coolant. Critical bit quiet noise level: 68dB.

Bob

Edited By Bob Brown 1 on 05/02/2015 22:11:11

[LathejackParticipant @lathejack]

An oil grade commonly recommended for compressors is SAE 30. Machine Mart sell it, and on some of their packs in small print it also states it is suitable for petrol engines. Aldi also sell stacks of it from time to time.

The small direct drive piston compressors of around 8CFM with a 25 – 50 litre tank are pretty good for the small home workshop, but they are noisy and can't power most air tools very well as they require a lot of air. But they can be used for most other tasks and easily inflate tyres and can be used for paint spraying.

A few years ago I bought a Clarke Air twin cylinder 14CFM belt drive compressor with 50 litre tank from Machine Mart, a very good quality Italian made machine at a reasonable price that can fit under a bench. They are also slightly quieter and more durable than direct drive types.

For several years I have also been using one of Machine Marts rotary compressors with a 25 litre tank, I think it is called Shsss Air or something like that. It is extremely quiet, so is great for constant use in the home workshop, but they are now quite expensive and their air output is feeble when compared to piston type machines.

Last year I really pushed the boat out as I wanted to do my own blasting, so yet again off I went to Machine Mart and bought one of their Industrial Air compressors. This is 3 HP with a 14CFM belt drive pump and 150 litre tank, and this has a relatively soft and quiet exhaust note. These are built in the UK but appear to use mainly Italian components. A bit big for under the bench though, unless you have a big bench.

Apparently, it's the FAD ( Free Air Delivery) that counts, rather than just the CFM rating. The trouble is the FAD rating is rarely quoted.

Edited By Lathejack on 05/02/2015 22:46:07

Edited By Lathejack on 05/02/2015 22:52:21

Edited By Lathejack on 05/02/2015 22:58:37

Edited By Lathejack on 05/02/2015 23:08:43

[davebParticipant @daveb17630]

I use a BAMBI for Spraymist, very quiet (almost silent) but takes a few minutes to fill the tank. I also have a low cost 2HP compressor, originally bought to run Spraymist, similar noise level to Manx Norton with open pipes at full throttle, doesn't get used much indoors now.

Dave

[Nigel McBurney 1Participant @nigelmcburney1]

I have found that the minimal amount of oil in these direct drive compressors can cause problems,particularly if is taken outside the workshop to inflate tyres,etc make sure the compressor is level,a slope in the ground can allow the oil to run to one end of the crankcase and starve the big end of oil.My neighbour had his compressor on a slope and seized it solid. I fitted larger diameter wheels on mine and it is a lot easier to move around,the supporting leg must also lengthened, In a workshop compressed air should never be used to clean machine tools,it blows swarf etc into the slides,only use it to blow swarf off of workpieces.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Direct drive compressors are much noisier than belt driven, if only because they usually run at a higher speed.

The oil does need to be changed regularly, as some water does get into it, and will eventually emulsify

Do note the difference between Displacement and Delivery. The latter is how much goes into the reservoir, and is always much less than Displacement. (Well, it couldn't be greater could it?)

With regard to draining the condensate, the advice when I bought my compressor, was to drain after every use, and to leave the drain valve open when not in use. Despite doing this, some condensate will still dribble out when the compressor is moved. But at least it has a chance to drain out, rather than staying in and causing rusting. Occasionally, I run the compressor with the drain open, in the hope of pushing out condensate still present.

I have fitted a water trap on the delivery side, and drain that regularly, also.

The thought comes to me that, as a pressure vessel, the reservoir ought to be tested periodically, although I must admit that I never have. (Mine is supposed to have a plastic lined tank, but corrosion might still have taken place).

Howard

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