Class 22 Diesel (next project)

[Roger BestParticipant @rogerbest89007]

I have got to admit that lead makes good ballast.

I have used plenty of it myself.

[martin perman 1Participant @martinperman1]

Ron,

Very nice job.

Martin P

[Dave Smith 14Participant @davesmith14]

Ron

That really is looking good. Are you going to detail the bogies and underframes, it would be shame not to?

Dave

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Thanks guys

Dave, although it doesn't pretend to be a scale model I will be adding some more chassis detail, though any rivet counters had better look away but they probably have already..

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Should anyone be interested something else I came across in the paint line is some weathering paint at a very good price. I found a MIG Ammo railway set of 6 colours in water based acrylic, it is actually a track weathering set but I thought it would also serve for some of the loco weathering.

Priced at £14.95 and free postage makes each of the 17ml bottles £2.50 each which is half the price of most of the weathering paints of a similar size. I got it via ebay but the supplier is Jadlam Models UK. MIG do a large range including sets for military vehicles and aircraft as well as 160 colours and other items.

The railway set is Track Rust, Old Rust, Medium Rust, Matt Black, Dust and Earth

May be of interest.

 

 

Edited By Ron Laden on 14/02/2021 09:48:47

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Al the windows and screens fitted I used 2mm acrylic which I glued in with R/C Modellers Canopy Adhesive, first time I have used it but it's very good. Grabs hold in 3-4 minutes and dries crystal clear, should you have any that needs removing then a damp cloth shifts it completely with no residue. Another new to me product I, m about to use is Humbrol Maskol (liquid rubber like solution) for masking off the windows, apparently its very good.

So about to start weathering the body working from the roof down, airbrushing using some roof dirt paint and others then with the body on the chassis working the frame and bogie finishes into the lower body and blending in.

[Dave Smith 14Participant @davesmith14]

Ron

Sorry if this is teaching you to suck eggs then disregard, but with weathering make sure you use a photograph of the prototype as a guide. It is the only way to get realistic weathering.

Dave

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

I,ve had a change of mind re the weathering, I was going to go with a light scheme but I have decided to go with something heavier. I have a model of a quite heavily weathered Class 52 which is also in a Maroon scheme. Using some diluted roof dirt enamel I have given all the body a wash as a base, it has toned down the colour quite a bit which I can now add to.

Edited By Ron Laden on 27/02/2021 19:24:04

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Getting there, quite pleased with how it's starting to look.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Be OK once it's had a clean up

Not much left to do now.

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Funny you should say that Jason as someone else told me not to weather it. I am a fan of weathered loco,s though they are not to everyone's taste. In fact I could count on one hand the number I have seen on club tracks and only one of those was fully weathered.

I could also be a fan of weathered/aged stationary engines having seen you Heinrici I thought that was excellent how you achieved that.

[Jon LawesParticipant @jonlawes51698]

I think with all weathering less is more. You seem to have a really good balance.

[Jeff DaymanParticipant @jeffdayman43397]

It's looking great Ron!

[DiogenesIIParticipant @diogenesii]

That's looking really good, Ron, nice work an' a useful read as well..

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Not to everyone's taste but it is to mine. ​​​​​​

Not too much more detail to add but the build is complete enough for a track test once the club opens up again. Electrics next and I had forgotten the front and rear side valances so some alu angle is on order.

Not too far away now and then onto other things, I am in need of a machining fix.

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

That will do for now, side valances have been added and there is still some small details to add but they can wait until after the track test. I have electrics on order and decided to go with a plug in hand control which I will make up myself.

I now have the AUW which is as near as matters 61kgs so a bit of a lump but it breaks down for handling and assy into the chassis 26kgs, the body 7 kgs and the pair of 12 volt batteries 14kgs each. Hopefully traction should be good, I cant see why not as there is a battery sitting immediately above each of the two bogies, well thats the plan at least.

[Jeff DaymanParticipant @jeffdayman43397]

Looking great Ron, I'll bet you can't wait to take it for a run, Hope that is possible soon.

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Enjoy seeing your updates – keep it coming with whatever is next.

On the electrics may I suggest a headphone socket, 1/4 in type, put in series with some part of the control circuit and attached to the driving trolley so in the event of a breakaway it is pulled out. Also don't make the lead for the control long enough for children to dangle it near the wheels when driving.

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Thanks Jeff

Yes hopefully it wont be too long before the club track is open again and I must admit I am now looking forward to the test run. It will be tinged with a bit of nervousness though, thinking are my motor calculations correct, is the gearing good, how will the belt drive perform etc etc. I am fairly confident it should be ok but like they say one should never count their chickens.

Ron

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Thanks Bazyle

The dead man,s connection is a good idea, thanks for that.

Talking of too long a control lead I embarrassed myself not long after I joined the club. A club member let me take his class 37 for a run and that had a control lead which was way too long at about 6 feet or more, he did mention it to me so I coiled all the excess cable up and hung it on the trolley handbrake lever. I was half way around the track when I stopped for a red light and didnt notice the lead had uncoiled, when I set off again the trolley ran over the lead cutting it clean in half. He was ok about it but I could tell he was none too pleased..

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

One day,s work should see it wired I said well tomorrow is day 4 and still quite a bit to do. I,m not the brightest spark when it comes to electrics (excuse the pun) but a lot of what you guys think is simple has me deep in thought trying to fathom it out. Anyway what I,ve wired so far seems OK, I am now wirng the sound plus the lights which I am connecting into a double pole direction switch. The idea being when the direction is switched the headlights and rear lights are switched to match the direction or at least that's the plan.

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Ready for a track test, a short video where I had the loco jacked on the bench for a motor/controller test, not much to see but it gives the sound and the headlights and rear lights changing with the direction switch. The two lower rear lights are red but they only show as white in the video..? I dont know why but I,m sure someone will.

I did have a sound system for the loco but it unfortunately went pop and I doubt I will buy another one and just go for a two tone horn.

With the loco jacked on the bench I took a maximum rpm reading at the wheels which comes out at 7.5 mph but that is unloaded of course. I would think though with the 500 + watts across 4 motors it should be capable of 7mph (ish) with half a dozen passengers but the club track limit is restricted to 5mph anyway.

It will be interesting to see how it pulls especially when pulling away from standstill, I have gone with the 16T pulleys that came fitted to the motors which gives a 4.5/1 ratio. I would have gone with 6.0/1 by choice but as the motors had the fitted pulleys and apparently they are a bugger to remove I thought I will see how it goes. Should it need lower gearing I can change the pulleys to 12T.

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 25/05/2021 10:34:24

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Still no track test I,m afraid I haven't been too well recently in fact I haven't been in the shop for over 6 weeks but on the mend now. I was hoping for this Saturday but the forecast is wet just my luck.

Anyway I found a nice set of cast beam furniture which will save a lot of work, an hour with some needle files should see them ready to fit as they are quite clean, the hook and links I will make myself.

[Jeff DaymanParticipant @jeffdayman43397]

Great looking casting set Ron. Hope you are better and able to get out on the track soon. Cheers!

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Hi guys,

I decided to get another diesel sound card for the loco (wiring diagram below), its a different type to the old one I had which went pop.

I think I have said before I am ok with basic wiring but when it comes to electronics I am a bit dull to say the least. The motors, batteries, speed controller and isolator are fine thats how I have them wired already. I understand that the pair of 10K resistors to the motor control prevent the voltage from exceeding 24 volts and the sound card is fed with 12 volts. I,m ok with the rest of the wiring but what I dont understand is how the 16v capacitor, 1K ohm and 100 ohm resistors and the way they are connected to the amplifier stereo jack are working. It would great if one of you guys can explain what is happening there, it would just be good to know.

Thanks

Ron

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