Clarke CMD10 fault

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Clarke CMD10 fault

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  • #214148
    Anthony Knights
    Participant
      @anthonyknights16741

      Using the machine yesterday when there was a loud "POP" and it died. I checked the fuse which was blown and black (not a good sign). Replaced it anyway and was rewarded with the green power light when I switched it on, but no response from the motor.

      The control board is marked SEIG-FC150BJSMO and appears to be the same as one in the Arc-Euro Trading spares list. I will order one but would like the following advice please.

      How can I check the motor to ensure I don't blow the new board when I fit it?

      Is it possible to get a circuit diagram for the board? I would like to try and repair the old board so I have a spare in future.

      Thank you in advance

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      #32605
      Anthony Knights
      Participant
        @anthonyknights16741

        Advice requested

        #214149
        Les Jones 1
        Participant
          @lesjones1

          Hi Anthony,
          You could try connecting a 60 or 100 watt light bulb (An ordinary old fashioned bulb. Not a low energy one or a halagon one.) in place of the motor. The speed control should control the brightness of the bulb. You could also check the resistance between all the pairs of comutator segments 180 degrees appart and make a table of the values. The readings should all be about the same. Also the motor should run slowly connected to a 12 or 24 volts DC power supply. Do these tests and report the results. There have been several other threads on this topic and I think John Fletcher has traced out the schematic of the FC150 board.

          Les.

          #214153
          60019
          Participant
            @60019
            Posted by Anthony Knights on 26/11/2015 06:15:35:

            How can I check the motor to ensure I don't blow the new board when I fit it?

            I was faced with the same challenge recently with the 400W DC motor in my lathe. I was pleasantly surprised by how well a PP9 battery I had to hand turned the motor over nicely.

            (I'd previously tried using a battery charger as a power source, but nothing happened. I suspect the battery charger was too 'sophisticated' and wanted to see some volts coming back before it was prepared to supply any current).

            If you've got the motor out of the machine I'd recommend you inspect the brushes, but TBH this doesn't sound like it will be the problem.

            Cheers,

            Mike

            #214243
            Anthony Knights
            Participant
              @anthonyknights16741

              Thank you gentlemen for your replies. Just a quick update.

              I ordered a new control board from Arc-Euro Trading last night. I received a call from them this morning made by a chap called Ian. He had seen my post and gave me similar advice re testing the motor as you two have kindly provided. What brilliant service !

              So far I have checked the brushes, which are good. The commutator is nice and shiny, with no sign of scoring or burning. I will do a resistance check and run the motor on a DC supply tomorrow.

              Thank you again for your help.

              Anthony

              #214308
              Howard Lewis
              Participant
                @howardlewis46836

                The Instruction book for the Chester Conquest, which is also made by SEIG, I think, has the warning to Always start the machine with speed control set to minimum, to prevent damage to the control board.

                No doubt, at some future time I shall forget this!

                Howard

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