Car Brake Bleeder Kit

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

If the car maker specified DOT4 you’d be advised to stick with it, otherwise insurance might be invalid

[Clive B 1Participant @cliveb1]

Thank you for all you’re replies, I certainly wasn’t expecting that response I’m so glad I came on the forum.

Juddy / Duncan/ Keith the male connector is a taper thread and I have never tapped a tapered hole, parallel yes and besides if its BSP I don’t have a tap suitable.

Bernard if by what you say, you’ve bled them the treadle way then yes, I’ve done it that way in the past, but you can’t do it on your own.

Diogenes that may be a good idea, just a case of sorting a metal thickness suitable for the valve to seal and would I get a good enough seal on the plastic tube connection on the threaded portion of the valve which is also not very long?

 

Graham looks like a standard air gun fitting good for 4500psi.  I won’t need anywhere near that pressure. The instructions say 1.9bar / 28psi and that’s maximum but I understand what you are saying.

 

Grindstone yes, I’ve had an Eezibleed in the past and it worked for me.  I can remember when the caps were all pressed steel back then.  I have bought a newer one with plastic caps but even that’s some time ago so thought I’d buy a new one which did not need a tyre to pressurise it ie. just pump the hand pump.

 

Maurice, two people, yes I’ve done that method long before Eezibleeds came on the scene.  I suppose my idea of using a pressure bleeder would save continually tightening the bleed screw on the brake pedal up stroke and opening it on the down stroke.  With a bleeder the bleed screw can be opened and a steady flow of brake fluid released until it was free from air bubbles and looks clean.

 

John/rydda vacuum bleeder, I’ve already bought the pressure bleeder now so obviously would like to use that method.

 

Hopper, No I haven’t had brake fluid spraying all over the engine bay, I am trying to make sure that doesn’t happen. The only reason I mentioned it was because of the reviews I’d read on Amazon from people who had bought the Sealey universal cap offering and just to recap said it flexed once tightened, so not a great success.

 

Peak4 your right it is a cheap fitting, on the female quick release part it’s got 20SH stamped on it including the word Taiwan.  Mind you isn’t everything knocked out over in that part of the globe these days.

 

Can someone out there with a lathe drill a hole down the length of say a 10mm diameter bolt so the brake fluid can travel down it and then turn the shank end down a bit so it’s a tightish fit in a 8mm outside diameter tube, I think the bore on the flexible tubing is about 5mm diam., I’m sure someone will have a bit of tube lying around they can try it on for fit.

The only thing I have is a hand-held drill and one of those cheap drill stands a hand drill can be put in, so drilling down a bolt is not so easy as doing it in a lathe, besides the bolt shank diameter will also need to be turned down so I can push the plastic tube on and be able fix it with a clip.

The bolt thread would need to be long enough to go through the 5mm plate which I already have but with enough thread length so I can fit a fibre /rubber washer and nut on both sides of the plate.

If someone would like to private message me and tell me how much they want that would be great.

 

The brake fluid cap on the car is like the one in the photo, I’ve not seen any like it before, that’s why I’m going to try a get something made which will hopefully do the job.

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, I have an Ezi-bleed, which I’ve used many times, and it only needs to be attached to an inflated tyre to about 20 psi. I’ve never had any leakage problems with it, but I haven’t needed to use it for quite a while.

Before I had that, I fitted some simple automatic bleeders, which had a spring loaded pointy bit that went into the cylinders, and all you had to do was crack them open a little bit, put a transparent hose on the nipple, and put it into a container, and then gently pump the brake pedal a few times until there were no bubbles in the tube and then shut the nipple, but of course you would need the open end of the tube just a little higher the the nipple. You could do all of the brakes on your own, but it did need you to get in a out of the car a few times, and remembering to top up with brake fluid.

Regards Nick.

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

Somewhere I have a bit of plastic pipe with a non return valve on the end. You just slip this over the brake nipple and put the NRV in a jam jar, fill up the master cylinder, slacken the bleed nipple and pump away. No need for slacken/tighten, just make sure you don’t empty the master cylinder. Pressure/vacuum pumps just seems an unnecessary complication.

[Clive B 1Participant @cliveb1]

Thanks for your replies Nick and Duncan, I may as well give the Sealey one I bought a go, now I have it.

[Clive B 1Participant @cliveb1]

While I have all your attention, I don’t know if I dare ask this question as it is a model engineering forum but my question is engineering related. If that counts.

 

Its question about reamers, in this case glow plug reamers.

I had a hells game getting one of the glow plugs out mainly because of carbon build up, anyway I did manage to eventually get it out and read up it’s a good idea to ream the glow plug holes out especially where they seat.

Have any of you had experience of doing such work and what did you do to clean the glow plugs holes out especially where the glow plug seats, which is a metal to metal joint?

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Why not just buy a fitting which has a 1/4″ BSP female thread such as this one.
https://www.toolstation.com/brass-female-socket/p57447
and solder  (Or silver solder.) it into a hole in the 5mm plate.

Les.

[bernard towersParticipant @bernardtowers37738]

And don’t forget chaps that Dot5 and Dot5 silicone are two different animals!!!

[bernard towers]

On bernard towers Said:

And don’t forget chaps that Dot5 and Dot5 silicone are two different animals!!!

DOT 5 is silicone. But very confusingly, the recently developed DOT5.1 is not silicone and is not compatible with DOT 5. However it is compatible with DOT3 and 4 and other glycol fluids.

It is the worst naming convention ever. More than one Harley owner has assumed that DOT5.1 is a new improved version of DOT5 and used it to top up their DOT 5 system, thus mixing a glycol fluid into their silicone fluid, which is a big no-no.

Why the Department of Transport came up with such a confusing coding is beyond me. No doubt it took endless committee meetings of experts with PhDs in engineering to achieve such an outcome.

 

 

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

Now come on, a civil servant with a relevant qualification? Don’t be silly, probably got a degree in ancient Greek, or English or something equally useful.

[Hopper]

On Hopper Said:

On bernard towers Said:

And don’t forget chaps that Dot5 and Dot5 silicone are two different animals!!!

DOT 5 is silicone. But very confusingly, the recently developed DOT5.1 is not silicone and is not compatible with DOT 5. However it is compatible with DOT3 and 4 and other glycol fluids.

It is the worst naming convention ever. More than one Harley owner has assumed that DOT5.1 is a new improved version of DOT5 and used it to top up their DOT 5 system, thus mixing a glycol fluid into their silicone fluid, which is a big no-no.

Why the Department of Transport came up with such a confusing coding is beyond me. No doubt it took endless committee meetings of experts with PhDs in engineering to achieve such an outcome.

 

 

As it’s the American Department of Transport that came up with the definitions, it matches other similarly convoluted numbering systems. Like threads or AN connectors….

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