Can’t disassemble drill chuck

[MikeKParticipant @mikek40713]

I'm trying to disassemble my Chinese drill chuck to no avail. I've already tried: mallet, block of wood with 3lb sledge, and arbor press.

Sure seems to be constructed like the standard Jacobs chuck…central body with outer collar. The central body at the back is a larger OD than the front so it can only come out one way.

Has anyone experience with these?

-Mike

[MikeKParticipant @mikek40713]

[colin vercoeParticipant @colinvercoe57719]

Try it with the jaws further towards the closed position, and press out from the front end.

[Ex contributorParticipant @mgnbuk]

I have had the one that came on a cheap drill press apart a long time ago. I can't recall exactly how I did it, but most likely using a 4" bench vice to provide the force as I don't have other means at home.

Turned out that the teeth on one jaw had stripped, so it was scrap anyway & not really worth the effort of getting it apart, given a Sanou replacement with the correct taper from Ebay was under a tenner delivered. The Sanou chuck has outlasted the no-name original.

Nigel B.

[Neil LickfoldParticipant @neillickfold44316]

https://youtu.be/wJocYNkwUYU

 

 

For what ever reason I could not embed this video at 450 wide.

It shows how to take apart a Jackobs  drill chuck.

 

Edited By Neil Lickfold on 26/01/2022 08:27:45

[Nigel BennettParticipant @nigelbennett69913]

I wonder if that black ring at the rear end of the chuck is swaged over; that would mean that you couldn't dismantle it without destroying it. A simple means of saying, "Buy a New One" by the manufacturer.

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, these can be fairly tight and I have had to use a hydraulic press to get a few off, of course, someone may have put some retainer on the half nuts to stop it slipping as in Nick Lickfold's post, so may need a heat gun blowing on it. The photo below shows what can happen if you retract the jaws too far back into the body when dismantling.

Regards Nick.

[MikeKParticipant @mikek40713]

Thanks for the responses, guys.

I was trying to solve two problems: 1) the "lube" used for assembly is really gummy and makes turning the collar often difficult and b) the collar will rotate about 1/6 of a turn before engaging the jaws.

The above video was actually the one I was using for guidance…just not getting the ease of disassembly he got. I'll try moving the jaws forward and with a suitable pressing ring on the body.

Yes, I should probably get a new one. And keep this one for backup. Really curious about the 1/6 turn of dead space, though.

[clogsParticipant @clogs]

on the same subject, well almost….

I have a 90degree Hitachi mains powered drilling machine…

lent it to someone who was a friend but no longer and he's busted the teeth on the chuck….I have secured a big allen key in the chuck and belted it with a huge copper mallet to try and unscrew it to no avail……dont want to damage the crown wheel drive by hitting it any harder…..

any suggestions other than sending it for repair and replacement chuck……

similar thing, any pref of a make of self tightening chucks other than the £100 jobbies…dont mind if they come from Poland etc….even Chinese if they come recomended……

I need at least 3 for different machines….

many thanks….

[Mike PooleParticipant @mikepoole82104]

It may have a retaining screw for left hand running, open the jaws wide and check for a screw into the end of the drive shaft.

Mike

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

As soon as I saw the picture, I had the same thought as Nigel Bennett, it might be swaged. I have a piece of tube, bored to press exactly where that rounded edge is at the rear on chucks. The one I made works for 1/2" Jacobs and 1/2" Eliot. The rear swaging was common on electric drill chucks, but I have not seen it on industrial chucks.

Edited By old mart on 26/01/2022 20:35:59

[Simon Williams 3Participant @simonwilliams3]

+ 1 for the swaged theory for me. I've played this game with several of the industrial grade Jacobs chucks successfully but never managed to get one looking like this apart. That rounded edge rings alarm bells.

And even if it is something that will come to bits and be OK to re-assemble, you'll need a lot more urge than an arbor press, or just hitting it with a hammer, even a big one. My 10 tonne hydraulic press will do this job but only just. Squishing it in a vice comes nowhere near.

HTH Simon

[MikeKParticipant @mikek40713]

Posted by clogs on 26/01/2022 16:08:15:

on the same subject, well almost….

Please start a new thread, so that each can receive the attention they deserve. Thank you.

-Mike

[MikeKParticipant @mikek40713]

Re: swaged collar…The reason I didn't suspect the collar was swaged is that it is substantially thick and not a tube that could easily be swaged. Seems like extra manufacturing? I'm going to give the arbor press another go.

[MikeKParticipant @mikek40713]

Okay, I was able to slide a brass shim between the back of the collar and the central body to a depth of at least 1". I think that assures it couldn't be swaged? Not that it wasn't a reasonable suggestion.

[Grindstone CowboyParticipant @grindstonecowboy]

I dismantled one where the outer sleeve (the bit that is "swaged" and has the knurled rings on) came off towards the rear. If this one is the same sort of construction, you should be able to see the join just behind the part that has the teeth on that engage with the key. I think I got it off using a piece of wood as a drift.

Apologies if that's not clear, I'll try and do a drawing if it might help.

Rob

Edit – just found this video showing the type https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mZj059q4Wm8

Edited By Grindstone Cowboy on 27/01/2022 00:36:00

[MikeKParticipant @mikek40713]

I tried again with the arbor press, with a cheater pipe on the handle, and my 170 lbs bouncing on it. No luck. It's "buy a new one" time.

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

If you intend to scrap it, please grind or file a bit out of that "swaged" end to put us out of our misery.

[MikeKParticipant @mikek40713]

Okay.

[Grindstone CowboyParticipant @grindstonecowboy]

So it's not like in the video I linked to?

Rob

[MikeKParticipant @mikek40713]

Posted by Grindstone Cowboy on 30/01/2022 23:41:40:

So it's not like in the video I linked to?

Rob

Hi Rob. Yes, not like in the video you linked, but is like in the video Neil linked. Not only is the entire collar hardened, but the center body has a larger OD at the back than the front so it can only come out by pushing the front of the body rearwards.

[MikeKParticipant @mikek40713]

I tried again this evening. This time for the win. Photo shows my setup of a large C-clamp, from an car/truck ball joint service tool kit (Astro 7865) and one of the cup adaptors. That clamp is BEEFY. Ignore the mess in the background. I clamped the clamp to my Workmate, sat on it, and used my favorite 1/2" ratchet (18" long). It took considerable force, but slowly pressed out. Second photo shows that the threaded ring doesn't cover the full circumference, which explains some of the dead space in collar rotation.

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi MikeK, I don't understand your statement about your second photo.

Regards Nick.

[Neil LickfoldParticipant @neillickfold44316]

So just needed a lot of persuasion or a really large shock blow to take apart. Was there any damage to the parts at all? I guess a clean and a re lube and good for many more years to come.

[MikeKParticipant @mikek40713]

My thinking on the split nut was that the gap between the halves allows them to move before pressing against each other which would show up as dead space in rotating the collar. I could be wrong.

Re: the clamp: An online force calculator estimates the forcing screw was pressing 9,000 lbs of force. About 100 ft-lbs on the 18" ratchet and screw is 1". No wonder my little arbor press couldn't do the job.

What's the suggested lube inside the chuck? Light coat of gray German CV axle grease with Moly okay?

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