Bubbles in the floor – help!

[gerry maddenParticipant @gerrymadden53711]

[gerry maddenParticipant @gerrymadden53711]

After a lot of debate I had my workshop flooring completed with a self-levelling latex material. Its actually much harder than I imagined, not cold to the touch, and doesn't seem to chip with tool impacts. I expected there to be some permanent set / indents where heavy objects rest on it for a long time – but it doesn't do this either! So generally I'm very happy with the choice of material.

What I'm not happy with is the finish. I believe that the builder mixed the resin too fast and filled it full of air bubbles. On laying it, these managed to rise to the surface but the material set before the hole was filled by inflow. The result was a myriad of pock-marks. The pic below shows how it looks …

At the time I wasn't too worried by this as I expected a final coat or two of paint would easily fill up all the holes. Yesterday I started on the floor painting but had to stop as the holes just wouldn't fill up, regardless of what I tried !

I experimented with my technique. Vigorous brushing or flooding the area with excess paint seemed to work initially, but by the time the paint had set the holes were back. In an effort to get some flow into the holes I diluted the paint. This was equally ineffective.

Convinced that lowering viscosity was key, I treated some small areas with a runny cellulose lacquer. I poured it out on to the floor then tried to 'card' it into the surface and force it into the pocks. Even this didn't work properly and on subsequent painting, most of the original holes annoyingly re-appeared.

I can't be the first person in the world suffering from this and feel there must be a simple known solution or product that can rectify 20 sq.m. quickly. Does anyone have any suggestions ?

Unfortunately, I cannot add a new substantial layer (i.e. millimeters) of anything as this will create a step somewhere, and I don't want this. In any case, the builder applied 3 layers to get the thickness I needed (40mm), and the bubble holes he created in the first layer, seemed to persist right through the second and third ! …..and no I don't want to call him back to rectify the job. After two months of them being in the background making noise and asking endless questions, its nice to have peace and quiet again

Gerry

[Martin Johnson 1Participant @martinjohnson1]

Polyurethane filler (available from screwstation and their ilk) used as a filler and applied with a broadknife?

Or does it really matter?

Martin

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Martin Johnson 1 on 10/07/2023 12:50:16:

Polyurethane filler (available from screwstation and their ilk) used as a filler and applied with a broadknife?

Or does it really matter?

Martin

+1

Paint is a poor filler – no bulk to it, and optimised to stick to a flat surface.

For covering small holes in a levelled floor, I think almost any fine filler knifed over the surface would do.

When my son had a section of floor levelled with goo, the result was similar – mostly flat with a scattering of small dints. His are hidden under a carpet.

Dave

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

I know it’s no consolation, but those are very interesting-looking holes !

particularly the one a little up&right from the end of your time-stamp

… I would have expected bursting bubbles to produce ‘crater edges’ but that one is gently blended

Honestly; I doubt you will ever find a suitable filler

MichaelG.

[SteviegtrParticipant @steviegtr]

When i used to a lot of car bodywork. The smaller the holes the harder it was to fill them. I always assumed it was because being so small as you fill over you are creating a air pocket which makes it very hard being so small,to push the air out. Not a problem with a big hole.

Steve.

[Andy_CParticipant @andy_c]

Had a similar problem with a latex floor some years ago and resolved using arditex feather finish. Then coated with two part epoxy floor paint from Watco. Not sure how hardness would compare.

Edited By Andy_C on 10/07/2023 13:57:27

[gerry maddenParticipant @gerrymadden53711]

Michael, yes you are right. Many seem to have a protruding rim and I thought it was this that was preventing the paint etc from flowing into the hole and filling it. So I ran some sandpaper in a block over the surface to find that many didn't have a rim at all ! This type, one might think, would help the paint run in but it doesn't seem to make a difference.

Does it matter ? Functionally no, but its the spoiling the ship for a hap'orth of tar thing. I think the knifed in filler might be the way ….but 20 sqm….. thats going to take some time.

For interest I've just brushed in some aircraft dope (as a trial) that I had on the shelf for 25 years. Its low viscosity and seems to go in the holes but then up comes a bubble which skins immediately due to the high volatility of the solvent. These then need rubbing down.

Gerry

Edited By gerry madden on 10/07/2023 14:10:44

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

Have you got a silicone product in the mix somehow? That is a devil of a problem to cover if you have.

Bob

[MichaelRParticipant @michaelr]

I think the problem could be the sub floor that the latex has been applied too, something has leached out or still is leaching out to cause the blow holes, all you can do is fill the holes.

MichaelR

Edited By MichaelR on 10/07/2023 16:19:20

Edited By MichaelR on 10/07/2023 16:19:48

[Graham MeekParticipant @grahammeek88282]

Did the builder seal the floor before applying the self leveling compound? A diluted coat of PVA usually does the trick.

I ask this question because you can get air coming up from the concrete if this is not done. It may well be that the hole in the compound goes directly to the concrete. I would try a small area with some dilute PVA and then try painting that area again. You have everything to gain and not much to lose.

Regards

Gray,

Edited By Graham Meek on 10/07/2023 16:24:10

[EmgeeParticipant @emgee]

Hi Gerry

What does your builder think is the best course of action ?

Emgee

[brickyParticipant @bricky]

to late now but at 40mm a screed of sand and cement trowelled to a smooth finish would have been the answer and a harder surface would have been a granno screed trowelled but I am out of touch with modern methods having been retired for 12 years.But the old way is foolproof at that thickness.

Frank

[gerry maddenParticipant @gerrymadden53711]

Looks like I'll have to bite the bullet and start filling with Arditex or similar, then and rub it all back. Hopefully I'll only do this once.

Thanks for all your comments.

[Richard BParticipant @richardb44403]

Over the years on major construction projects I have always received very good technical advice from both Ardex UK – as noted above and F.Ball &Co for any screed/compound flooring issues

Worth giving their tech boys a ring – do you know the details of the levelling screed i.e make and product as they will likely request it.

Richard B.

[Pete RimmerParticipant @peterimmer30576]

That floor material should have been mixed with a slow speed paddle mixer then rolled out with a spiky roller. Then it would have had no bubbles.

[blowlampParticipant @blowlamp]

What about sweeping some powdered filler into the holes to let the air escape before dampening the surface with a fine spray? Then paint when dry.

Martin.

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