Bubbles in cast iron

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Bubbles in cast iron

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Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
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  • #736620
    michael howarth 1
    Participant
      @michaelhowarth1

      I recently bought a wheel casting and on machining I found that there was an air bubble just where you don’t want it. At the junction of the tyre tread and the rear flange. I called the supplier who couldn’t replace it because he didn’t have any in stock. I could have pushed it and waited until they came back into stock but the proprietor did offer a solution. He told me to put the wheel on a metal plate and heat it up from below (I used a camping gas burner). Meanwhile, mix up some araldite and add some cast iron dust to it (plenty all over my lathe!). Then add the Araldite mixture to the hole in the casting. To my surprise, on contact with the hot surface, the Araldite mix flowed like water into the hole. When the casting cooled down the Araldite had completely hardened but I waited another day before resuming machining and obtained a very good result with just a slight colour difference between the casting and the filler. This tip is probably known to many but it is the first time I have heard of it and I hope  it may be useful to others.

      Mick

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      #736622
      Hopper
      Participant
        @hopper

        First time I have heard of it. Sounds like a very useful tip. Thanks for sharing.

        #736691
        Robert Atkinson 2
        Participant
          @robertatkinson2

          Basically DIY JB Weld or Devcon

          #736717
          Ian P
          Participant
            @ianp
            On Robert Atkinson 2 Said:

            Basically DIY JB Weld or Devcon

            or even this,

            https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/adhesives/0850962?gb=a

            Metal Loaded Epoxy, although when cured the colour is nearer to black than grey

            Ian P

            #736744
            michael howarth 1
            Participant
              @michaelhowarth1

              I appreciate that metal loaded epoxies have been around for quite a while. It was the method of use that impressed me – the simplicity of heating  the workpiece and the subsequent dramatic reduction in the viscosity of the epoxy when it came into contact, allowing it to flow into and filling the cavity rather than trying to poke a stiff mixture in.

              Mick

              #736782
              Robert Atkinson 2
              Participant
                @robertatkinson2
                On Ian P Said:
                On Robert Atkinson 2 Said:

                Basically DIY JB Weld or Devcon

                or even this,

                https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/adhesives/0850962?gb=a

                Metal Loaded Epoxy, although when cured the colour is nearer to black than grey

                Ian P

                That does not contain metallic particles…..
                see https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/topic/metal-loaded-epoxy-what-metal-is-used-in-it/

                #736872
                Ian P
                Participant
                  @ianp

                  My reply was a bit tongue in cheek Robert as I knew there was no ‘real’ metal in the RS product, the only metal is in RS’s marketing title.

                  Mick’s experience with applying epoxy to a heated surface is an interesting subject, in my understanding I would have thought the elevated temperature would have cured the epoxy too fast for it to reach its full hardness. I can see an experiment coming on….

                  Ian P

                   

                  #736886
                  Clive Brown 1
                  Participant
                    @clivebrown1

                    Sensible temperatures shouldn’t affect the final cured properties and warmed epoxy will flow very easily, with a useable working time window. IIRC, in the ’70’s(?) ME carried an article by someone who successfully sealed the tanks of a loco after building them in the normal riveted manner with brass sheet and angle. The thinned epoxy was run round as an alternative to soft solder, penetrating all the joints and crevices. I also think that around that time epoxy was even suggested as a means of sealing screwed boiler stays although I don’t know if heating was suggested nor how successful that might have been in the long term.

                    #737009
                    Robert Atkinson 2
                    Participant
                      @robertatkinson2

                      There is published data for curing various Araldite epoxies up to 100 to get it deg. C. e.g. https://www.intertronics.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/ara2014-1.pdf

                      I’ve found 50 deg is fine for consumer slow cure Araldite to make it thin and / or cure quickly.

                      Robert.

                      #737072
                      Michael Gilligan
                      Participant
                        @michaelgilligan61133

                        Just to add a bit of Epoxy trivia … Canoeists seem to get away with some rather extreme ‘warming’ techniques when making emergency repairs !

                        MichaelG.

                        #737079
                        hurnby
                        Participant
                          @hurnby
                          On Ian P Said:
                          On Robert Atkinson 2 Said:

                          Basically DIY JB Weld or Devcon

                          or even this,

                          https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/adhesives/0850962?gb=a here

                          Metal Loaded Epoxy, although when cured the colour is nearer to black than grey

                          Ian P

                          After using this epoxy glue on my project, the result was better than I expected. A really strong bond

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