Brian’s 1″ Minnie Traction Engine

[Brian AbbottParticipant @brianabbott67793]

Hello all, Merry Christmas,

Jason / Richard

After some more advise if possible, progressing ok with the tender but not had as much time over Christmas as i would have liked, The book says to solder the tender bush ( for the Tender water union ) last, i guess using solf solder.

Is this the way you did yours, my thoughts were that it may be better to silver solder this bush into place then rivet and soft solder the assembly up as instructed,

Thanks for any help as always.

 

 

Edited By Brian Abbott on 29/12/2016 23:34:55

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I can't see that it makes much difference on such a small bush, on my 2" fowler you need access to the inside of teh tender for some of the riviting so any extar hole to look through or poke an extended rivit snap into is handy but not really needed on the minnie. Just mind you don't kink teh brass tender back/base when silver soldering.

[Richard S2Participant @richards2]

I Soft Soldered the bushing(s) on both the original Brass one and the revised Steel Brass lined version. Plenty strong enough. Just make it a good fit and sweat it in both sides when you're doing the joints.

[Brian AbbottParticipant @brianabbott67793]

Thanks both…again.

I am going to take your advice and soft solder the bush in, i was worried about distorting the brass plate if i silver soldered it.

[Brian AbbottParticipant @brianabbott67793]

Hello all.

I am nearly at the point where i can solder the tender, i have tinned the edges, and am in the process of riveting the parts together,

Due to everything having being riveted i am no longer able to clean any of the joints, will this be a problem or is this the point of using the flux ?

Should i have cleaned, riveted and soldered all in one sitting as quickly as possible ?

Thanks for any advice.

Brian

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Should be OK provided you apply some flux to teh edges of teh joints before you start heating it up, the flux will melt and flow into teh tinned joints. Probably need to run a bit of extra solder hear and there, the cored electrical solder is quite good for that.

[Brian AbbottParticipant @brianabbott67793]

Thanks Jason.

[Brian AbbottParticipant @brianabbott67793]

Afternoon all.

I have inadvertently made the draw bar for my minnie out of stainless.

When i finally paint the tender, do you think this would take the paint ok ?

Thanks.

Brian

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Probably stick better to that than it will the brass!!

Just give the lot a coat of etch primer and then your colour on top of that, you will need the etch for the brass anyway.

J

[Brian AbbottParticipant @brianabbott67793]

Etch primer..Ok..

Jason, when you get a chance, would you mind posting a picture of the tender on your Minnie, Ideally around where the draw strap wraps around into the draw bar, viewed from the back

Thanks Jason.

 

Edited By Brian Abbott on 03/02/2017 13:16:43

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Will do.

Better dust it first

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

[Brian AbbottParticipant @brianabbott67793]

Thanks Jason,

just wanted so see how you had bent the draw strap round the corner into the draw bar.

i've done mine the same.

Thanks again

[Brian AbbottParticipant @brianabbott67793]

Hello..

This is a sketch of the by pass valve on the Minnie i am building.

Unsure of the angle of the pipe cones, in the past i have just used the drill angle which seems to work ok, is this right ?

Thanks.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Should be 60degree inclusive, easily done with a centre drill and will then match off the shelf nipples/ferrules

[Brian AbbottParticipant @brianabbott67793]

Thanks Jason.

[Brian AbbottParticipant @brianabbott67793]

Hello Jason,

Can you remember what diameter pipe you ran from the by pass valve, was it 1/8" OD ?

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

No can't remember.

But just had a look and its all plumbed in 1/8"

[Brian AbbottParticipant @brianabbott67793]

Ok, thanks Jason.

[Brian AbbottParticipant @brianabbott67793]

Hello again.

I am in the process of machining the cylinder on my minnie.

I spent the day yesterday boring the radius on the saddle ensuring it was a good fit against an off cut of the boiler tube.

Now complete and tried against the boiler there is the slightest rock, I can only guess that the boiler tube has distorted slightly.

The gap is no more than a paper thickness in on corner so not much.

Should I try and file them in together or will the gasket sort things out.

Thanks.

Brian

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

You may find that as you tighten the bolts the boiler shell will pull back into shape if its is only a small rocking that you are getting.

[Brian AbbottParticipant @brianabbott67793]

Thanks Jason, glad you said that.

Sorry for not getting back to you sooner,

[Brian AbbottParticipant @brianabbott67793]

Hello All..

Can anyone tell me what the pocket is for on the underside of the Minnie cylinder block ?

The book calls it a sort of steam dome and according to google this is to prevent water entering the cylinder, is this correct ?

Thanks.

 

Edited By Brian Abbott on 19/04/2017 16:51:27

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

You will find it on most traction engines, it does indeed act a bit like a steam dome allowing steam to be drawn off higher above the top of the boiler barrel and therefor the water level which reduces the risk of priming.

[Brian AbbottParticipant @brianabbott67793]

Thanks Jason.

One last thing ( for now anyway )

The drawing calls for the bore to be. 0.625" and also for the piston to be 0.625"

Does the piston need to be a really good slide fit or should i have a little clearance ?

I have not noticed in the book what size o rings to order, i will have another look.

Thanks.

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