Boring Head

[Alan GirvanParticipant @alangirvan88520]

I have a query, hopefully someone can help me with…

I have recently purchased a boring head, and I have found that when you put the cutting tool at 90 degrees to the MT the leading edge is at the top instead of the bottom, where I need to be. Can a set of cutting tools be purchased that will reverse this – so that the lead edge is at the bottom? I have searched online and haven't been able to find any.

I can try and add a photo if this helps explain my problem.

Thanks for any help – greatly appreciated.

[Alan GirvanParticipant @alangirvan88520]

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Photo please!

[Martin WParticipant @martinw]

Hi

Strange, very recently I nearly asked the same question when I wanted to use the cutting tool in the horizontal position, I wanted to machine a 50mm radius recess in some angle aluminium, only to find that the cutting edge was trailing when the mill was running in the normal direction. Luckily I had fitted a reversing switch to my mill so after ensuring everything was tightened up ran the mill in reverse taking gentle cuts and the job was a good un.

Not necessarily recommended but it worked for me.

Cheers

Martin

Edited By Martin W on 18/05/2015 00:17:49

[Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116]

I also had this problem. Tried running the mill in reverse but the boring head unscrewed from the morse taper shank when taking heavy cuts. My solution was to modify the cutter (see below). Ground a flat where the grub screw seats to stop tool rotating in the boring head.

Paul.

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Alan,

If I understand your question correctly you need a left hand boring tool, something like what you could see here.

Chronos have some left hand boring tools (scroll down the page) with different shank diameters that may fit your boring head. If not you could probably make your own tool.

Thor

Edited By Thor on 18/05/2015 04:54:58

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Just regrind one of the easily available HSS or brazed tipped cutters to suit running in the opposite direction. Works for me, I'll take a photo later.

You can also buy a 1/2" piece of toolsteel and grind that or make a simple steel holder to take smaller HSS bits that can be ground from old milling cutters and ctr drills.

Final option is to use a righthanded cutter and start the cut at the bottom of the work and cut upwards.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

That's a very good question – I've never expected to use my boring head at large diameters and didn't make a cross-hole, although I could add one if I ever need to.

If it's a one-off job why not just make a D-bit from suitable sliver steel or round HSS?

Neil

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

As I said you can regring an off the shelf bar, they usually have the rear angle rounded like the one on the left so just grind it straight like I have to the one on the right.

Then it can be mounted in the head like so, just take it easy as the forces are taken more by teh braze but I have not had problems using them this way. Mounted inline with teh shank it will also do external cuts.

If you don't want to grind things then just mount like this and cut upwards

Another alternative is to make a simple tool holder, drilled to take HSS toolsteel or milling cutters and a grub screw to keep it in place.

And while you are at it frill the other end at right angles so you can use it for boring smaller holes or external cuts

[Alan GirvanParticipant @alangirvan88520]

Sorry for the late response.

Thanks very much for all the responses, they are very helpful and I will definitely get sorted from them.

Kindest Regards, Alan

[Ed DuffnerParticipant @edduffner79357]

Or, rotate the bit so it's a left hand tool and run the spindle in reverse. I came across the same thing when I made my mini boring head.

Ed.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Just be careful if running in reverse as a lot of the smaller commercial heads are two parts, the head screws onto a straight or MT shank and can unscrew when run in reverse.

J

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