Belt/disc sander

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

Does any one use a woodworking style bench disc/belt sander for their metal working. If so how does it stand up to being used on metal with all the sparks.

Many are advertised as being only for wood and say do not use for metal.

I do own a small one but will keep that for my woodworking as I do not want to mix wood and metal tools the only exception is my 3 disc grinders as all three are really used to sharpen shape woodturning tools so no cross contamination

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

[Mike HurleyParticipant @mikehurley60381]

In many cases fixed-speed versions designed for wood run far too fast for use on many metals. Also, if stated as not suitable for metal I would assume use might void warranty etc

[Bo’sunParticipant @bosun58570]

Are there different grades of belts/discs for wood and metal?

[JourneymanParticipant @journeyman]

I have a Warco BDS460 Belt/Disc sander. Definitely designed for wood work although useable on metal. It really runs too fast for metal and whatever you are working on gets seriously hot. The dust extract is pretty inefficient and certainly doesn't capture all the sparks even with the shop vac connected. It is messy and whatever you do a layer of dust is distributed over the workshop. The motor as far as I can tell is an open frame 2 pole effort and not protected other than being inside the case.

I did a review when I first got it see BDS460 might be of some interest to those considering purchase.

John

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

I used an axminster linisher with a 6" wide belt for finishing brass castings. It worked well. yes they could get hot ! One needs to keep the switch gear and any other electrics protected from the fine conductive dust. If left for any length of time ALWAYS rotate the belt before starting as it may stick to the rollers and stall the motor and cook it ! Noel.

[VicParticipant @vic]

I’ve been using a Record Power BDS250 for tool sharpening for many years. I made a proper adjustable table for mine. It’s only fairly recently been retired in favour of an Axminster Ultimate Edge. Mainly because I can get a greater variety of belts for it.

[VicParticipant @vic]

This is my BDS250. As well as making a proper table I also added a supplementary removable 50mm platen specifically for tool sharpening. 150mm belts are easily split down into three 50mm ones. The rod at the bottom was used for a woodturning gouge jig.

My newer Axminster Ultimate edge has variable speed and forward and reverse which is very handy. And accepts jigs for a variety of different vendors.

**LINK**

[VicParticipant @vic]

Posted by Bo'sun on 24/08/2023 09:15:18:

Are there different grades of belts/discs for wood and metal?

There probably are from specialist suppliers but for hobby belt and disc sanders all I’ve seen offered usually are Aluminium Oxide. You can use these on both wood and metal but obviously don’t last as long on the latter.
For belt grinders like the Axminster Ultimate Edge and Sorby Pro Edge there are various types readily available including Alox, Ceramic, Zirconium, Trizact and Diamond.

Both machines also accept small mops and non woven abrasives.

[Bo’sunParticipant @bosun58570]

Thanks Vic,

The discs on my 12" Disc Sander don't last too long when sanding metal, but I suspect suitable discs for metal are few and far between (if at all). Also, as stated previously, being a sander designed for wood, the speed quickly gets the metal very hot.

[VicParticipant @vic]

Some abrasives are advertised as cooler cutting? Whether this would make a difference on a disc that’s perhaps running a bit too fast for metal remains to be seen. Something like this may be better than Alox?

**LINK**

[mgnbukParticipant @mgnbuk]

We killed a couple of 6" Performance Power belt / disc sanders similar to the Clarke model available from Machine Mart at one of my employments. The "dust extraction" facility drew the dust through the motor to provide cooling – maybe OK on wood dust but steel swarf eventually damaged the motor insulation & blew a hole in the windings. Both machines failed the same way. I rescued the carcasses, intending to convert them to belt drive from an external motor, but have yet to get around to it – only been on the projects list for 20 years or so now.

I use one bought from Netto that has a TEFC motor that drives the belt / disc via vee belt that has proved to be Ok on metal. Similar machines are on eBay for around £70. Main shortcoming is relatively low power that limits cutting pressure, but that seems to be advantageous to consumables life

Nigel B

[Alain FooteParticipant @alainfoote90915]

I have a 10 inch disc sander which I use regularly for steel.

[John PurdyParticipant @johnpurdy78347]

I use a Delta 1 " x 30" belt grinder on metal all the time. I use both AlO and zirconium belts. The zirconium ones last considerably longer but are more expensive.

Anyone using one should be aware of a potential explosion/fire hazard while using one on metal. See my letter in ME "Post Bag" for 9 Mar 2001 #4141. I suffered badly burned hands from an explosive fireball while using it on steel.

Delta originally listed it as for use on wood and metal but after I contacted them about my experience I noticed that a short time later their advertisements listed it for use on wood only, coincidence or CYA?

John

[HOWARDTParticipant @howardt]

Abtec provide all types and sizes of disc and belt. I have used them for my 1” belt and disc sander, but I also have a 6” wide and 9” dia belt and disc sander which at the moment is running through my older stock of coarser wood belts. When I can I will get some finer 6” belts but most of what i do is adequately handled on the 1”.

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

Hi John, Your unfortunate incident – Had some one use the machine to grind aluminium ? If so then what happened was a thermit reaction. Aluminium should NEVER be ground on a general purpose machine where steel is or will be used. Noel

[John PurdyParticipant @johnpurdy78347]

Noel

Exactly! Here's the original post to ME for everyone's info. There was also some follow up letters in later issues. I have some pictures of the damage to my hands but can't find them at the moment.

I now leave the side off the machine and clean it out on a regular basis. When I do on occasion grind aluminum I have a dedicated belt that is labelled and only used for aluminum, and do a thorough clean out immediately afterward.

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

Hi John, I thought I remembered the article. I hope you fully recovered. Best wishes Noel.

[John PurdyParticipant @johnpurdy78347]

Noel

It took about 6 weeks, but my hands fully recovered with no lasting evidence other than one small spot on the heel of my left hand where there is no feeling. That was the most seriously burned area. Thankfully, as I said in the letter, my fingers were protected by the grinder stage, so after they were seen to and bandaged up at the hospital I still had full use of my hands (carefully!!).

John

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

Mmm… We were taught never to grind aluminium because it clogged up the wheel, never told about that one and I worked in an aircraft factory !

Bob

[Mike HurleyParticipant @mikehurley60381]

Interesting to say the least. I never grind aluminium on wheels but occasionaly use my linisher to smooth off edges on various materials, mainly alu & steel. Like many, never thought of the dangerous issue detailed above, so will definately keep it in mind in future.

Also a very timely reminder about safety glasses!

Glad you survived intact John

regards

Mike

[CirclipParticipant @circlip]

Would have been "Chastised" if caught using a mechanically driven abrasive on alloy when we had an ingineerin industry. One of the deadly no no's.

regards Ian

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

Going back many years I was also taught not to use the grinder for ali because of the dangers of possible hazards. Not only that but as stated it does clog the discs up.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Strangely, I was recalling the dangers of using wood and aluminium on the same belt sander, when the letter from Canada appeared.

Even using for Steel and Aluminium can be dangerous.

Railways use Thermite, a mixture of finely divided Aluminiium and steel, as a means of welding rails together, because of the tremendous heat generated.

Steel wool will burn if a match is applied. The steel is sufficiently finely divided and there is pleanty of air to provide oxygen for combustion.

It would not be surprising to learn that Alumium swarf will burn quite readily.

Howard

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