Roger
The trick to minimising the locking cam effects is to snug things up a touch so the holder doesn't rock as you adjust the tool position upwards using the screw. The smoothness or otherwise of movement when doing this is a good test for the quality of manufacture of the set. Piston types are generally easiest to get smooth with a sensible drag but they also tend to be a little less secure. But cheaper. Wedge locking types tend to be most fussy about setting to get the right drag but they are more secure than the piston ones.
Dickson styles have a nasty habit of self adjusting when the locking device is turned if you don't snug the adjuster up properly. Dickson styles are also major league fine swarf magnets. Any locking issues developing in use are almost invariably due to fine swarf building up inside. But dis-assembly to clean out is a total doddle.
I've not seriously used Multifix styles so can't advise on those.
There is a reason why professional standard QC systems are so expensive. It takes serious precision to bridge the gap between "right every time, 24/7 and still working OK when the lathe is worn out" which is what the professional needs and "works fine but need to be aware of its little foibles" which is just fine for folk like us. At 10 to 20 % of the professional price a foible or two is fine by me.
There are numerous types of tool height gauge.
I'm a fan of the simple optical type.
Basically a transparent plastic blade 1/4" – 6 mm or more thick sat vertically on a base small enough to sit easily on the machine and heavy enough to be stable. Use a sharp fixed centre in the lathe headstock to scribe a line at centre height on both sides of the blade. Looking through the blade the tool tip is on centre height if both lines merge into one and are aligned with the tip. Or you can just use one line when working from the tool side.
I have two sets of lines on mine. One for the base sat on the bed and one for it sat on the cross slide. I also have a mirror attachment os I can set things remotely by looking down onto the mirror to see the lines and tool tip. My blade is only 1/4" thick. A thicker one 3/8" or 10 mm would be more sensitive to errors if not looking dead level to merge both lines. Re-making mine has been on the list for over 20 years now!
Clive