Battery Compartment

[VicParticipant @vic]

I’ve bought a Digital Inclinometer for use in the shed. I like to remove batteries from things like this when I’m not using them due to the risk of damage from leaking batteries. I always use good makes but there’s still a risk. The problem as you can see is the screw on back with very tiny screws. It did come supplied with a diminutive screwdriver. I don’t particularly want to leave the back off permanently. Anyone got any ideas for a suitable alternative? It’s only a matter of time before a screw gets lost or the plastic thread gets too badly worn to be effective.

[AStroudParticipant @astroud]

Perhaps replace the screws with studs and make some knurled nuts to suit or does this side need to sit flat ?

[VicParticipant @vic]

That’s not a bad idea, thanks! No, it doesn’t need to sit flat.

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

My crude solution would be an elastic band, but I have used AStroud’s solution on several occasions. Trouble is finding out what the thread is. I have some M3 brass inserts which can be fitted to plastic cases with the aid of a big soldering iron to melt their way in, provided of course that there is enough plastic

[dodmoleParticipant @dodmole]

Blu-Tack perhaps?

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

If it is like mine, they use a round button battery, which seem to last for countless years. I have never seen one leak yet, unlike the old AAA cells etc. So I would not worry about it. Maybe hit the button now and again and if the digital display does not respond, fit a new battery.

[VicParticipant @vic]

It takes two AAA batteries.

[John Doe 2Participant @johndoe2]

This does not help with easily removing the batteries, but might help slightly:

Could you engineer a conventional switch onto the battery cover ?

If projection from the battery cover is not an issue, you could mount a slide on/off mechanical switch in a small housing fixed to the battery cover and wire it into the battery circuit – assuming that you can get at the wires from the battery terminals.

If the battery terminals are soldered directly into the PCB, you will have to get more inventive…….

For example; A plastic pin or blade inserted through a hole or slot drilled in the battery cover in just the right place could be used to push one of the batteries away from its positive terminal in the battery holder against the spring on its negative end, breaking the electrical circuit. Attach the plastic pin to the unit with a small lanyard so as not to lose it. When you next want to switch the unit on, you just pull out the pin and the battery will contact the terminal again.

The thing about remembering to regularly check if the batteries are dead or remove them after use every time, is that being human, we will almost certainly forget !

 

If you still want to physically remove the batteries, the stud and wing-nut idea sounds best.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

This may be worth exploring …

Vic’s picture clearly shows four deep holes near the corners of the unit: it may be possible to put plugs into these [same idea as those used for detachable grilles on some loudspeakers] and then incorporate the battery cover into a more robust plate.

MichaelG.

[VicParticipant @vic]

Here’s another picture of the back. I will need to remove the back at some point to see if I can drill it out to fit some 2mm socket screws for studs. I’ve found some nice M2 knurled nuts on eBay.

I had a nice little gram scale a while ago that died due to battery acid leakage. Lesson learned. Interestingly the replacement I bought not only has a standard 2 AAA battery compartment but also a similar size recess for spare batteries. After use I remove the batteries and place them in this storage area so that if they do leak no harm is done.

 

 

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Miniature super-magnets.

[SillyOldDuffer]

On SillyOldDuffer Said:

Miniature super-magnets.

Potentially unproductive … given the nature of the gizmo [?]

MichaelG.

[bernard towersParticipant @bernardtowers37738]

Not necessarily Michael as mine already has a magnetic top and bottom!

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Potentially is not, of course, the same thing as Necessarily

🙂

MichaelG.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

The old Zinc Acid cells leak when exhausted.

My problem was that Alkaline cells, particularly Duracells, tend to build crystals round the negative contact.

My solution which seems to work most of the time is to coat both +ve and -ve ends with petroleum jelly.

Sadly, the CR2032 in my angle gauge, like other button cells, dies of old age, when stored, unused.

Howard

[Howard Lewis]

On Howard Lewis Said:

…………………….

Sadly, the CR2032 in my angle gauge, like other button cells, dies of old age, when stored, unused.

Howard

Try keeping it out of the gauge when not in use; I just partially unplug the little drawer on mine.
There seems to be a low current drain in many of my cheaper measuring items, such as my Lidl/Aldi angle gauge, along with their calipers.
Same goes for the cheap digital micrometers, though some are otherwise excellent.

Bill

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

<p style=”text-align: left;”>I think all these digital things just turn off the display when you turn them off, the actual measuring function is always live. Try zeroing you digital caliper with it switched on, then turn it off, apply the caliper to a bit of bar of known size, turn it back on. All of mine will give the correct reading. For less used devices I take the battery out when not in use.</p>

[John Doe 2Participant @johndoe2]

I think it is usually because the on/off switch is not a real switch, but one consisting of a transistor of some sort. Even when the item itself is switched off, there will be a tiny leakage current flowing through the transistor and some of the associated electronics in order to detect when you press the button to switch it on.

This is what drains the batteries in digital callipers etc. – I take mine out when not in use, and have bought a Dasqua calliper with a mechanical dial gauge which I use almost all the time – I don’t need super fine precision, I mostly use mine for 3D printing.

 

 

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