Bandsaw coolant system.

[Tony saccParticipant @tonysacc93877]

I have a BS-5S bandsaw, bought it around 8 years ago and it has served me well. I only use carbon blades as I cut a lot of tube and RHS so bimetals tend to shed teeth a lot.

The first thing I did for it was to add a coolant system. I tried a centrifugal pump first, but that didn’t last too long. The bandsaw makes a lot of very, very fine swarf which found it’s way into areas of the pump that the pump didn’t like and so the pump burnt out real fast.

After that failure, I bought a gear pump, these work well on the bandsaw as the fine metal swarf doesn’t find it’s way into the motor or bearings.. I’ve mounted the pump on the rear leg of the bandsaw stand, so it’s external to the coolant tub. The coolant tub is a plastic fuel container. I drilled a hole about 30mm from the bottom, turned up a spigot and bolted it in the hole then connected the tub to the pump via a plastic tube. The pump is powered by a 12volt power adapter.

I turned up a three way adapter and mounted it up by the base of the bandsaw hoop. Coolant is pumped up to the adapter, the adapter has one inlet at the bottom and two outlets above that. The coolant enters the adapter by the lower spigot and exits the adapter via the top spigot where it is fed, via a small retic hose, to the blade in front of the blade hoop. The tube is split and saddles the blade, so as the blade turns, coolant runs along the blade and on to the stock being cut. The coolant flow is far too much for the blade, so, I interrupted the line with a small retic tap, as the flow to the blade is reduced by the tap, coolant flows out of the midpoint spigot and returned to the tub.

Of course coolant splashes everywhere, so I had to make a few mods. The bandsaw table has a small lip around the periphery making an ideal basin effect, so I drilled a hole in the table, roughly where the material falls after being cut, turned up a countersunk drain, inserted it in the hole and locked it in place with a nut from underneath.

A 13mm plastic tube slips over the spigot on the bottom of the drain and feeds coolant from the table through a retic filter and a couple of rare earth magnets lying in the bottom of a couple of adapters between the filter and the coolant tub. That takes care of the coolant pooling on the table, however, some coolant flows over the side of the table behind the switch, so I bolted a small aluminium angle iron piece to the edge of the table.

The drain on the table clogs up occasionally, mostly after cutting wood or plastic, so that requires freeing up with a plunger every now and again. I also added a small plastic tray under the gap of the vice bed, but that has remained dry for the last eight years. Some coolant does escape the table when cutting tube, entering the tube through the cut and dribbling out the end. Not much I can do about that except place a bucket on the floor under the end of the tube being cut.

The coolant when it travels along the blade, shoots straight out the back, so, I removed the resting plate on top of the lower blade guide, fashioned another the same and cut a neoprene washer to fit between the plates and screwed them in place.

Here's a video showing how the system works.

[Tony saccParticipant @tonysacc93877]

[Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116]

Coolant pump that is used on mills and lathes.

The tank has 2 compartments and the return coolant enters the first compartment. Solids settle to the bottom of the first tank with a magnet to attract ferrous metals. Liquid has to flow over a barrier wall to enter the second tank and pump. The motor is above the tank and away from any liquid and the pump below in the second tank. Motors are available single and 3 phase.

I only have a small bandsaw for cutting metals and use a bees wax stick to lubricate the blade

Edited By Paul Lousick on 25/08/2023 13:29:55

[Tony saccParticipant @tonysacc93877]

I don't see the point in buying what you can make for a fraction of the cost, mine cost about $20. What did that cost?

In Oz, that pump setup is $339, that's 17 times more than what mine cost.  Mine has been operating for 8 years without problem.  I think I'll stick to my coolant system, pocket the money, and use it for something I can't make.

I have a. Similar setup on my lathe, that cost around $35 to put together.  It's been operating for 10 years without problems.  You'd hate it!

Edited By Tony sacc on 26/08/2023 01:54:29

Edited By Tony sacc on 26/08/2023 01:54:49

Edited By Tony sacc on 26/08/2023 02:02:30

[Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116]

Actually cost me $25 at the recycle centre at our local rubbish dump. Motor was not working but got it running.

[Tony saccParticipant @tonysacc93877]

Well, I suppose I could have bought one from the local rubbish dump. Problem is they didn't have one, so I made my own.

[larry phelan 1Participant @larryphelan1]

My system uses a pump from a clapped out washing machine and a spare saucepan from SWMBO.

Has been working for so long now that I seldom even think about it.

Spares are easy to come by !

Just wondering, why would anyone need coolant while cutting wood ???

I think there is a picture of my set up in my album.

[BaldricParticipant @baldric]

The important thing to take from the commercial device is that there is a divider in it, so that the swarf settles out and only the liquid flows over the divider, I have seen a similar thing on a larger bamd saw in the tray under the blade. I seem to remember the Elliott lathe I used to use had a similar divider in its suds tank.

Baldric.

[Tony saccParticipant @tonysacc93877]

Posted by larry phelan 1 on 26/08/2023 09:09:12:

My system uses a pump from a clapped out washing machine and a spare saucepan from SWMBO.

Has been working for so long now that I seldom even think about it.

Spares are easy to come by !

Just wondering, why would anyone need coolant while cutting wood ???

I think there is a picture of my set up in my album.

You don't need coolant when cutting wood, but when you cut wood,or plastic, you make swarf, so next time you use coolant it washes the swarf down the drain.

You could always clean the table afterwards I suppose, but why bother when the coolant washes it away. Wood and plastic particles settle on top, heavier metal particles settle on the bottom. Being as the pickup tube is 30mm or so from the bottom, I don't need a divider, unnecessary complication.

[Tony saccParticipant @tonysacc93877]

Posted by larry phelan 1 on 26/08/2023 09:09:12:

My system uses a pump from a clapped out washing machine and a spare saucepan from SWMBO.

Has been working for so long now that I seldom even think about it.

Spares are easy to come by !

Just wondering, why would anyone need coolant while cutting wood ???

I think there is a picture of my set up in my album.

You don't need coolant when cutting wood, but when you cut wood,or plastic, you make swarf, so next time you use coolant it washes the swarf down the drain.

You could always clean the table afterwards I suppose, but why bother when the coolant washes it away. Wood and plastic particles settle on top, heavier metal particles settle on the bottom. Being as the pickup tube is 30mm or so from the bottom, I don't need a divider, unnecessary complication.

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, my Boxford lathe has a built-in suds compartment in the stand, which has a divider, the photo below shows that with a suds pump that Paul Lousick has shown, although I've never fitted or wired it in, I can't remember how much it cost though.

The best thing about these pumps, is there is no shaft seal to wear out or leek, and the impellor has enough clearance to tolerate small particles without damaging it.

They will also let you know if your suds is getting to low, as they will stop pumping without damaging the pump.

I've no problem with other peoples systems though, a person has to use what they have and can afford.

Regards Nick.

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