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[TONY SPENCERParticipant @tonyspencer]

While my boiler was being made. i purchased a 3 cock water gauge from maccmodels, (see photo album).

These show a 3m/m gap (has all my photos, i do not use flash, bounce it, or anything else, vtheyare in focus, has camera is on auto, it is on a tripod so no misfocus or smudging occurs, what you see is what really is, not what it aint.

 

Can members of this forum come up with a solution has to the best way of overcoming this problem.

 

Is it possible to braze a piece on without causing the joints to split (bush threaded( 1/4 x 40) .

 

There are approxmately 4 threads in the bush, the boiler operates at 90 psi.

Would these be enough too give a good safe strong hold against the 90 psi

 

Yours Tony Spencer

p.s. 3 of photos show how i get good focused shots of my subjects

 

Edited By ANTHONY SPENCER on 17/04/2010 22:13:09

[TONY SPENCERParticipant @tonyspencer]

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I think I would strip it down, mount the bottom square part in the 4-jaw and machine off 3mm (or whatever you need) . extend the thread onto the part thats been turned. Next turn up a small “washer” and silver solder that onto the new spigot to reinstate the mating flange.

 

This will allow the top fitting to screw in all the way and you will also have full engagement on the bottom and you are not heating the boiler..

 

Jason

Edited By JasonB on 18/04/2010 07:37:44

[mgjParticipant @mgj]

Its not the 90psi you have to worry about. It the 180 psi at hydraulic test time.

 

Very crudely 1/4 is .049 sq inches, so that thread has to carry a whopping 8lbs force – yes plus the shear loads imposed in tightening – I’m just making the point that its not under a very great load, and its too early on a Sunday to get into pedantry.

 

The problem is the seal to make it steam proof.

 

Jasons solution would work well, or if you don’t want to start silver soldering, machine the gauge top pedestal back to give you some room, and thread internally. Make a screw in extension of the right length with  male threads. Reassemble. How long will that take – 1/2 hour.

 

Jasons solution is better because you have fewer joints, but you might get some distortion in the cock taper in the pedestal meaning it would have to be re-lapped.  Pays your money and takes your choice.

 

Also, like Jason, I would suggest that heating the boiler to SS a fitting is unwise – particularly given its history. (It is THAT boiler?) If you have a leak at hydraulic test time you will have no claim, because you will have modified the boiler, so I’d strongly recommend you modify the gauge and leave the boiler well alone.

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

Anthony, would it be possible to extend the thread on the bottom fitting by turning off the little flange, it would just mean that the glass is 3mm closer to the boiler. Just an idea from a non steam buff how makes a few balls ups and has to dig myself out. Ian S C

[MichaelRParticipant @michaelr]

If you can re-thread the bottom fitting as has been suggested, instead of silver soldering a new mating flange, make a lock nut to take it’s place, screw the fitting into it’s bush and lock up the nut.

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

Stick, even a washer soldered on to replace the old flange would be OK, do it right and you’ll never know. Ian S C

[TONY SPENCERParticipant @tonyspencer]

Hi all

My apologises for
taking so long to reply to all your answers, but my mother-in-laws
house was in final stages of being sold.

Off subject are there
any estate agents out there, who would take prospective customers
round a house they know has been broken into and would you
believe not even bother to inform the seller for nearly 2 months, (
live 15 miles away, and 3hrs 3 buses by public transport ).

Only found out when I
hired a skip to clean out the house, would never have found out
otherwise.

Back on subject, I am
meeting Dave Noble at Harrogate about making a top fitting to take
into account the (***++%%$$!!**** up) made by maker of said boiler,
(yes mgj its that one ), may take it to harrogate so anyone who would
like to see send me a PM

Yours Tony

[TONY SPENCERParticipant @tonyspencer]

Hi all

 

thanks for the interest shown at Harrogate

 

yours Tony

[Jeff DaymanParticipant @jeffdayman43397]

Re: the house – Not sure in the UK, but here in Ontario the home owner is fully responsible for a property until the sale is closed and keys change hands. Most house insurance states that someone must check a property every two days maximum while occupants are away for any reason, or the insurance is void.

 

I agree that if agents were there after a break in and did not report the damage, that is awful, but the owner is probably responsible for the property unless papers designating responsibility to the agents have been signed.

 

Between the boiler and the property, not a good year so far, eh?

[william rowcliffeParticipant @williamrowcliffe55937]

Hello everybody, my first forum. I have built  a  Yarrow boiler for a steam lifeboat, and have been trying to build a butane burner for same with no luck! I  am copying the Forrest Classics design roughly 1” sq. X  7” long, but I cant get a blue flame at all. Any advise please? From William Rowcliffe

[Dougie SwanParticipant @dougieswan43463]

I’m not familliar with the forrest classics design  but I am a gas engineer  how are you mixing the gas and air before combustion?

Dougie

[TONY SPENCERParticipant @tonyspencer]

Hi Jeff

Some year it started in
January 2009 with the boiler

The positive side of
all this, are all the fellow model engineers I have had emails from
and met at clubs and shows, most of which say, make it yourself you
then know what you are getting and a far better job, the rest I am
afraid is unprintable,[about the boiler I mean].

I am waiting to get, I
hope, a new hose from Chronos that suits my Sievert blow torch, I
purchased in 1983 has the modern ones don,t fit, otherwise its a new
handle, for those who are looking for new brazing gear I would
suggest [gasproducts.co.uk] ones eyes don,t water so much at the
prices.

Yours Tony

PS the house is sold
YIPPEEEE

[william rowcliffeParticipant @williamrowcliffe55937]

Hello Mr. Swann, Thankyou for your interest. The gas and air are mixed similar to a Bunsen burner in an 1/2” i.d. tube with an adjustable jet position-no sleeve, to control the air at present, it did’nt seem necessary as I can’t get a blue flame anyway.I’ve tried a ceramic burner from a domestic portable heater with 1/16” holes and an all steel tube with 1mm holes, also two jet sizes, I am at  a complete loss as to what to do next.

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi William,

                       I think the jet you are using is too large or the total cross section area of the holes in the ceramic grill part is too small. I found a web site with information on the burner design you are using and it suggests a number 8 jet. I then tried to fined what the hole size is in a no. 8 jet. I found this website  Gas jets  It suggests that a no. 8 jet is 0.25 mm diameter. you do not say what size jets you have tried so if your jet is this size or smaller I do not know what to suggest.

Les.

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