AVM MAS 140 lathe

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Posted by Howard Lewis on 14/02/2023 11:39:46:

N D I Y is right, for square or irregular work, or if you wish to place work ecceentric deliberately, you need a 4 jaw indepenedent chuck

In addition to this you will need a magnetic base and at least one Dial Test Indicator (Clock)

When you get the lathe home and start to set it up, you need to follow the method explained by Ian Bradley in his "The Amateur's Workshop" or his "The Myford 7 Series Manual", often referred to as "Rolllie's Dad's Method"

This will show if the bed is twisted and how to adjust / shim the tailstock end of the bed to eliminate it and -minimise the risk ot taper on long work.

If this is your first lathe, I would strongly advise you to read one or more of books on using a lathe.

Suitable authors are

L H Sparey "the Amateur's lathe"

Ian Bradley as above

Harold hall "Lathework"

Stan Bray "Basic lathework"

neil Wyatt "Lathework"

David Clark and Dave Fenner have both written books about the mini lathe, which your larger and more sophisticate machine is not, but the same basic pricipes apply.

HTH

Howard

I am on your wavelength on this. OP needs to get it bought, at the best price he can negotiate, and get it home and in use. If in good condition (as it appears) it would be costing a couple of grand – likely more with the converter installed. It looks, to me, to be a very good all-round machine.

The DRO, while not strictly necessary, is a good ‘extra’. The expensive piece of kit looks like the converter – a much less expensive VFD would suffice, I expect, but it is there and ready to go.

Sonic, My advice is buy it, even if you need to dig deep. I doubt you will regret it.

[Sonic EscapeParticipant @sonicescape38234]

Posted by Howard Lewis on 14/02/2023 11:39:46:

Suitable authors are

L H Sparey "the Amateur's lathe"

Ian Bradley as above

Harold hall "Lathework"

Stan Bray "Basic lathework"

neil Wyatt "Lathework"

Thank you for the titles. I checked a few and they have interesting content.

Tonight I played again with the lathe. This time I found it easier to change gears. You have to get used to it. I will buy it 100%. The only thing I'm undecided about is the DRO. It has functions that I doubt I will use. For example it can store the length for different tools. A much more useful function is checking the setting for the pitch of the threads. If you manually rotate the chuck one full turn the DRO will indicate directly the thread pitch. That's nice, especially in the beginning.

I also found a truck with a crane. But the lathe has no hooks. This looks like bad design to me. There is a place on the right where we can put a flat rope around the bed. But on the left this is not possible. The seller said that we can use the chuck as a support point for the rope. To my horror he told me that this is how he unload it! Or to insert a pipe through the chuck long enough to exit on the left. Is this a common practice? Personally I think it is a bad idea. Why pulling a few hundred kg from one of the the most critical part of the machine?!

[Pete.Participant @pete-2]

he told me that this is how he unload it! Or to insert a pipe through the chuck long enough to exit on the left. Is this a common practice? Personally I think it is a bad idea. Why pulling a few hundred kg from one of the the most critical part of the machine?!

As far as stupid ideas go, it's up there with the best of them.

I'm glad you have the critical thinking skills to understand this is a bad idea.

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Congratulations on your new lathe!

A nylon/fabric sling under the main bed casting will work better. But don't let it press in on the lead screw or feed shafts as they are easily bent. Either put the sling inside between the leadscrew and bed, or put wooden blocks there to keep the the sling away from the leadscrew and feed shafts. Slide the carriage to the left end of the bed to spread some weight down that end.

DRO is a personal choice. I don't use one but those who do have them say they are a great thing.

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

Well done you

And I would buy it with the DRO, they can save a lot of time/effort

(That's why they are so popular with so many users)

Edited By Ady1 on 15/02/2023 00:39:58

[JellyParticipant @jelly]

Posted by Sonic Escape on 14/02/2023 21:52:44:

I also found a truck with a crane. But the lathe has no hooks. This looks like bad design to me. There is a place on the right where we can put a flat rope around the bed. But on the left this is not possible. The seller said that we can use the chuck as a support point for the rope. To my horror he told me that this is how he unload it! Or to insert a pipe through the chuck long enough to exit on the left. Is this a common practice? Personally I think it is a bad idea. Why pulling a few hundred kg from one of the the most critical part of the machine?!

It is likely that the manufacturer made provision for you to insert steel bars through holes in the base for use as a lifting point.

As shown here:

If there's no holes for that you can do the same thing by jacking the machine up and using a square/rectangular steel tube or C-channel but you have to drill it for the hold-down bolt hokes in the base of your lathe and bolt the tubes on for a secure lift.

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Posted by Sonic Escape on 14/02/2023 21:52:44:

Posted by Howard Lewis on 14/02/2023 11:39:46:

It has functions that I doubt I will use. For example it can store the length for different tools. A much more useful function is checking the setting for the pitch of the threads. If you manually rotate the chuck one full turn the DRO will indicate directly the thread pitch. That's nice, especially in the beginning.

Storing tool offsets is actually invaluable!! Being able to take a tool in its holder, clamp it in the QCTP, select the tool number on the DRO, and have it display the turning diameter straight away, is just so convenient. Yes you have to set up the offset table but after that the offset for a given tool only changes when you sharpen it. The thread pitch "feature" comes for free with any DRO. I would definitely go for the DRO option.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Although it was not delivered with one, the manual for my Taiwanes monster showed it being lifted by a lifting eye screwed into a clamp attached to the bed,

In my case the 1 ton sling was placed aroiund a bar through a convenient hole through the Headstock, and aroumd the tailstock end (Taking care not to impinge on the feed shaft or Leadscrew.

I doubt if you will regret your purchase. It should prove to be very capable and versatile machine that will bring you years of pleasure and muse.

The DRO will prove to be really useful, if the budget can be stretched to it.

Good Wishes

Howard

[Sonic EscapeParticipant @sonicescape38234]

Posted by Howard Lewis on 14/02/2023 11:39:46:

Suitable authors are

L H Sparey "the Amateur's lathe"

Ian Bradley as above

Harold hall "Lathework"

Stan Bray "Basic lathework"

neil Wyatt "Lathework"

Thank you for the books. They are interesting.

Today my lathe arrived. We were able to lift it using 4 ropes without touching the bed or anything important. It was placed on 2 pallets and then moved into the garage with 2 pallet trucks. I need to buy a thick rubber carpet to replace the pallets. Here the truck driver was playing with his remote control:

I want to clean it. Everything is greasy. And also I want to detach that add-on box in the bottom left corner. Inside it is the 3 phase converter and it doesn't belong to the lathe. Also the converter has active cooling and sitting inside an closed box is not a good idea.

In the end I bought the lathe together with the DRO. This is the box with all accessories:

Just before leaving the seller added also these tools

It is going to be a long weekend

[larry phelan 1Participant @larryphelan1]

I dont think you went too far wrong there. You were right to buy the whole lot, money well spent.

You dont need something right now ? how about 12 months down the line ?

Looks a beautiful machine, I hope you have many, many happy years with it.

[egaParticipant @ega]

It looks as though the travelling steady has three fingers which I think is one more than usual and no doubt all to the good.

[Dave HalfordParticipant @davehalford22513]

Posted by Sonic Escape on 16/02/2023 16:02:31:

And also I want to detach that add-on box in the bottom left corner. Inside it is the 3 phase converter and it doesn't belong to the lathe. Also the converter has active cooling and sitting inside an closed box is not a good idea.

However the converter also has exposed screw terminals at mains voltage that need to be protected from fingers, swarf, fluid and mice etc

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

The first thing I noticed about the lathe pictures is that it has no sign of being abused, in fact, it looks almost unused.

[Sonic EscapeParticipant @sonicescape38234]

Posted by old mart on 16/02/2023 18:16:40:

The first thing I noticed about the lathe pictures is that it has no sign of being abused, in fact, it looks almost unused.

It was abused a little. Here are some high resolution pictures: Front table Chuck

And in the main gear box there is metallic dust (top right): Gear box

By the way, what is the purpose of that hole in the chuck?

[Sonic EscapeParticipant @sonicescape38234]

Posted by larry phelan 1 on 16/02/2023 16:12:52:

You dont need something right now ?

Only time

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

You look to be well set up, with a machine looking to be in good condition..

Now to site the machine finally, and "level" it (Remove any twist as Ian Bradley tells&nbsp and start becoming familar with it, and the accessories.

Then you can start making swarf as part oif the learning process.

Learn as you go, by making simple tools (Tap Wrenche, Centre Height Gauge, Die Holder etc and eventually a Mandrel Handle to help when cuttingb threads, such as when up to a shoulder, or down a blind hole)

For my lathes, I made sliding Tailstock Die Holderes (You can buy the actual Die holders from Arc Eiuro, mamong other places )and eventuall a slidin Tailstock Tap Hol;der. The early models used a small drill chuck, on a slidingb body, to hold the Taps. The later ones use holder made to take ER collets. That was after I became more proficient and brave and cut 1.5 mm pitch threads!

Howard

[Sonic EscapeParticipant @sonicescape38234]

The lathe is not on its final place. I have to remove the wood pallets. Now I can move it front and back a little only with one hand. It doesn't look safe. I'm thinking to add a thick rubber carpet under. I think that the floor tiles might crack if in direct contact with the metal.

Now I'm reading about the brazed and indexable tools. I want to buy a few but I didn't figured out what brands have good price/quality value. Also I'm looking for some metal bars. I'm considering at some point in the future to repaint the lathe. Somebody suggested that it might decrease it's value since it could be assumed that it was used a lot before painting. But I don't like this dull green.

Does anybody know where I could find the manual for this lathe? I sent an email on Lathes.co.uk but got no reply. I suppose they don't have it.

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

The hole in the front of the chuck body maybe an oiler. Shame about the front of the jaws, I would carefully face them back using a carbide tool, and reshamfer them. Do you have the outside jaw set?

Edited By old mart on 19/02/2023 16:26:21

[Sonic EscapeParticipant @sonicescape38234]

Posted by old mart on 19/02/2023 16:25:49:

Do you have the outside jaw set?

Edited By old mart on 19/02/2023 16:26:21

Yes I have it. It doesn't have any wear marks.

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

If you make a saddle stop, the tool tip can be set within a gnats c–k of the jaws safely, and if using power feed that close, then cut away from the chuck.

[Sonic EscapeParticipant @sonicescape38234]

I cleaned that hole in the chuck and indeed it is for oil:

There is metal swarf everywhere. I started to disassemble the DRO sensors and other small parts to clean it better:

I discovered that the carriage has an oil reservoir. This would be the third one on this lathe. The oil level looks ok

How do you know if this oil has to be replaced?

[DiogenesIIParticipant @diogenesii]

Posted by Sonic Escape on 20/02/2023 19:40:07:

I discovered that the carriage has an oil reservoir. This would be the third one on this lathe. The oil level looks ok

How do you know if this oil has to be replaced?

If it looks dirty. If it looks clear and clean it will be okay.

[Sonic EscapeParticipant @sonicescape38234]

My lathe doesn't have a drill chuck. But is there a problem if I will use an ER collet instead? I'm thinking to buy an MT3 ER32 type. It has the advantage that I could use it also for a milling machine that I want to build.

I saw that there are MTA and MTB Morse tapers. I suppose that the one with a drawbar (MTB) can be used in more places than the first one?

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

One can buy (or make) a tang, if you ever needed one, and screw it into a threaded taper.

My advice is to buy a chuck. Changing jobbing drills, centre drills, spotting drills, etc for second operations will soon become a drag. I actually have a couple of chucks, fitted with centre drills, and use a keyless chuck for other purposes.

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

Well done you, looks like a pal-for-life lathe

Clean it up so she's nice and then be very-very-very clear about what you are doing if this is your first lathe

In the first few months there is a very high probability of you smashing your fingers or your lathe, don't ask how I know.

Put on a pair of glasses for your eyes, never leave them exposed

You have to learn how to move around it from the start, your hands and your feet and your brain need to learn where to go and where not to go

Plus you need to know exactly what all the knobs do

I used a slack headstock belt for my first few months which was like a safety clutch for when I cocked things up

After a few months of use you suddenly get serious and tighten up that headstock belt because you now know the basics of using a powerful machine tool

It's like driving a car, for the first few months you're still learning and need to be cautious

Good Luck and have fun

Edited By Ady1 on 28/02/2023 14:56:01

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