Assistance with ZAY7045FG/1 Milling Machine

[Alvin SchlitterParticipant @alvinschlitter80339]

Looking for others with the same or similar model

[Alvin SchlitterParticipant @alvinschlitter80339]

Hello All;

I have my new ZAY7045FG/1 Milling machine now in my shop and set up. The tramming of the Z axis was a challenge due to the weight of this brute but now have it set right on.

 

A couple of questions to others with a similar machine, how do you lock a R8 collet into the spindle and not have it turn. I thought that the machine would have a brake type of lock similar to the Bridgeport’s but it does not.

 

The next question is how to make the machine work in a counter clockwise direction. Yes, for drilling and tapping one can select this feature and set up the depth and it will drill and or tap to a depth then reverse itself out of the hole. But I cannot find how to get it to milling in a counter clockwise direction. Why you might ask, well left hand mills.

 

There is supposed to be a way to set up the clutch which is used for selecting the various speeds when doing powered drilling or tapping. The manual does not cover procedure so I am hoping someone might be able to assist.

 

Thank you in advance.

 

[Martin WParticipant @martinw]

Alvin

 

Any mileage in setting the machine to ‘tapping setting’ then hitting the ‘Red Mushroom’ to reverse spindle direction and then use as  a mill. I have only quickly read the manual, pdf  copy googled, and wondered if this could be done. I guess it depends on where stops etc. are set and if you can operate it like this.

 

Just a suggestion but please be aware I have NO knowledge of this machine.

 

Good luck

 

 

Martin

[Keith LongParticipant @keithlong89920]

R8 collets have a keyway down the side that engages with a drive peg or key inside the spindle, they then pull up with the drawbar.

 

Keith

[Alvin SchlitterParticipant @alvinschlitter80339]

Hello Martin;

Tried that and it did not work! I suppose one could modify the electronics to add a reversing switch!

 

Also Keith, what I was trying to say was that once the cutter and collet are properly inserted into the quill one needs to tighten the draw bar and then snug it up so that the mill end does not creep out when milling. There is no locking arm for the spindle only a locking arm for the rack sleeve (quill). I have now found the solution for this problem and that is to put the transmission into the lowest speed setting and that offers enough resistance to tighten up the draw bolt.

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

Hi Ken

Test post by administrator.

regards David

[mgjParticipant @mgj]

Alvin – thats because your drawbar is not right.

 

You need a fixed nut or spanner flats on the top of the drawbar – pin through or weld on.(So its like a really long bolt in concept)

Below that on the threads you fit a free to turn  locking nut – before fixing the top nut of course.

 

Sooo. To lock up/nip up the drawbar, one spanner or socket holds the drawbar via the top fixed nut (can also be used to screw the drawbar in to the collet/drill chuck /whatever fitting) too) Then the second spanner is used to tighten the locknut and draw everything up snug. 

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Meyrick, A lot of the imported mills just have a drawbar that is like a long hex headed bolt that bears on the top of the spindle so you don’t have the second nut.

 

Jason

[mgjParticipant @mgj]

Ah – well – then you make one that does.

[Author]

Posts