Are Dremel’s worth the money

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

I have found that the attachments like brass brushes shed their wires and they are dangerous!

Other than that it seems to take ages to get anything done with one. The collets are worse than useless and regularly come loose and the main shaft of the tool always has a wobble. The formed abrasive tubes never stay on the mandrel and shred very easily.

It all sits in two boxes that maybe worth more that the tools.

Clive

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

I have found that the attachments like brass brushes shed their wires and they are dangerous!

Other than that it seems to take ages to get anything done with one. The collets are worse than useless and regularly come loose and the main shaft of the tool always has a wobble. The formed abrasive tubes never stay on the mandrel and shred very easily.

It all sits in two boxes that maybe worth more that the tools.

Clive

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

I have found that the attachments like brass brushes shed their wires and they are dangerous!

Other than that it seems to take ages to get anything done with one. The collets are worse than useless and regularly come loose and the main shaft of the tool always has a wobble. The formed abrasive tubes never stay on the mandrel and shred very easily.

It all sits in two boxes that maybe worth more that the tools.

Clive

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, like Derek I have one of the older generation of Dremel's, Mod 395 type 5 10,000 – 37,000 rpm made in USA. I've had it since the eary part of the 90's and have still got all the collets and the spanner/screwdriver that came with it, and it has certainly earnt it's keep.

I've never experience the collets comming loose or any wobble in the main shaft and my abrasive tubes stay put. Don't know about brass brushes as I haven't used any of them.

Regards Nick.

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, like Derek I have one of the older generation of Dremel's, Mod 395 type 5 10,000 – 37,000 rpm made in USA. I've had it since the eary part of the 90's and have still got all the collets and the spanner/screwdriver that came with it, and it has certainly earnt it's keep.

I've never experience the collets comming loose or any wobble in the main shaft and my abrasive tubes stay put. Don't know about brass brushes as I haven't used any of them.

Regards Nick.

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, like Derek I have one of the older generation of Dremel's, Mod 395 type 5 10,000 – 37,000 rpm made in USA. I've had it since the eary part of the 90's and have still got all the collets and the spanner/screwdriver that came with it, and it has certainly earnt it's keep.

I've never experience the collets comming loose or any wobble in the main shaft and my abrasive tubes stay put. Don't know about brass brushes as I haven't used any of them.

Regards Nick.

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

My woolies one gave up the ghost after 10-12 years, just a few days ago. As the saying goes, it doesn't owe me anything.

Not sure what the problem was yet, it wasn't working hard (sanding drum taking glalvanising of a small piece of sheet steel).

The problem since ages ago has been the spindle lock barely working, which makes tightening the post-fitted dremel chuck difficult. I fitted a short dummy collet to operate the chuck. The dremel chuck is not what I would call 'accurate'.

I have lots of collets from one of those '200 piece' sets, but sadly they don't fit the woollies wonder, so I have many accesories I can't use

In its time it has done many jobs, now I have to think about a replacement, I was thinking of biting eh bullet and going for Dremel, but if an Aldi one comes up I may take the chance. If either can manage at least a decade of abuse, I won't complain.

Neil

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

My woolies one gave up the ghost after 10-12 years, just a few days ago. As the saying goes, it doesn't owe me anything.

Not sure what the problem was yet, it wasn't working hard (sanding drum taking glalvanising of a small piece of sheet steel).

The problem since ages ago has been the spindle lock barely working, which makes tightening the post-fitted dremel chuck difficult. I fitted a short dummy collet to operate the chuck. The dremel chuck is not what I would call 'accurate'.

I have lots of collets from one of those '200 piece' sets, but sadly they don't fit the woollies wonder, so I have many accesories I can't use

In its time it has done many jobs, now I have to think about a replacement, I was thinking of biting eh bullet and going for Dremel, but if an Aldi one comes up I may take the chance. If either can manage at least a decade of abuse, I won't complain.

Neil

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

My woolies one gave up the ghost after 10-12 years, just a few days ago. As the saying goes, it doesn't owe me anything.

Not sure what the problem was yet, it wasn't working hard (sanding drum taking glalvanising of a small piece of sheet steel).

The problem since ages ago has been the spindle lock barely working, which makes tightening the post-fitted dremel chuck difficult. I fitted a short dummy collet to operate the chuck. The dremel chuck is not what I would call 'accurate'.

I have lots of collets from one of those '200 piece' sets, but sadly they don't fit the woollies wonder, so I have many accesories I can't use

In its time it has done many jobs, now I have to think about a replacement, I was thinking of biting eh bullet and going for Dremel, but if an Aldi one comes up I may take the chance. If either can manage at least a decade of abuse, I won't complain.

Neil

[Ian AbbottParticipant @ianabbott31222]

I've got a couple of North American 110v Dremels from years ago, one type 4 one type 5 and a two year old 240v type 300. They all work fine, good quality. The flex shaft seems to be happier at slower speeds, but the attachments like the router and pillar drill are good quality.

I also have a Canadian cheapy 110v and a Lidl cordless. They are useful for stuff where the tool is likely to suffer. They aren't as smooth and the collets visibly wobble. My only real gripe with them though is that they don't fit all of my Dremel attachments, 'cos the body thread is different. That's understandable though.

Bottom line is, I suppose, that you get what you pay for.

Ian

[Ian AbbottParticipant @ianabbott31222]

I've got a couple of North American 110v Dremels from years ago, one type 4 one type 5 and a two year old 240v type 300. They all work fine, good quality. The flex shaft seems to be happier at slower speeds, but the attachments like the router and pillar drill are good quality.

I also have a Canadian cheapy 110v and a Lidl cordless. They are useful for stuff where the tool is likely to suffer. They aren't as smooth and the collets visibly wobble. My only real gripe with them though is that they don't fit all of my Dremel attachments, 'cos the body thread is different. That's understandable though.

Bottom line is, I suppose, that you get what you pay for.

Ian

[Ian AbbottParticipant @ianabbott31222]

I've got a couple of North American 110v Dremels from years ago, one type 4 one type 5 and a two year old 240v type 300. They all work fine, good quality. The flex shaft seems to be happier at slower speeds, but the attachments like the router and pillar drill are good quality.

I also have a Canadian cheapy 110v and a Lidl cordless. They are useful for stuff where the tool is likely to suffer. They aren't as smooth and the collets visibly wobble. My only real gripe with them though is that they don't fit all of my Dremel attachments, 'cos the body thread is different. That's understandable though.

Bottom line is, I suppose, that you get what you pay for.

Ian

[MetalhackerParticipant @metalhacker]

I, like Derek, have a US one, a 396, bought in Perth Aus. In 1989. Only repair I've had to do was replace the clutch last week. A plastic tube which had perished over the years.. I also bought some new brushes as a precaution but it didn't need them. It's had a hard ish life over the years and is still going strong, but the chuck doesn't grip well, collets are much better. Dunno about newer ones though!

Andries

[MetalhackerParticipant @metalhacker]

I, like Derek, have a US one, a 396, bought in Perth Aus. In 1989. Only repair I've had to do was replace the clutch last week. A plastic tube which had perished over the years.. I also bought some new brushes as a precaution but it didn't need them. It's had a hard ish life over the years and is still going strong, but the chuck doesn't grip well, collets are much better. Dunno about newer ones though!

Andries

[MetalhackerParticipant @metalhacker]

I, like Derek, have a US one, a 396, bought in Perth Aus. In 1989. Only repair I've had to do was replace the clutch last week. A plastic tube which had perished over the years.. I also bought some new brushes as a precaution but it didn't need them. It's had a hard ish life over the years and is still going strong, but the chuck doesn't grip well, collets are much better. Dunno about newer ones though!

Andries

[StovepipeParticipant @stovepipe]

I'm happy with my 2 Dremels, one is a mains and the other is a battery operated one. not had any problem with the collets, but some of the accessories are a different kettle of fish. The battery operated Dremel can start at very low revs, and is jolly useful when modelling – doesn't run away with you. Dennis

[StovepipeParticipant @stovepipe]

I'm happy with my 2 Dremels, one is a mains and the other is a battery operated one. not had any problem with the collets, but some of the accessories are a different kettle of fish. The battery operated Dremel can start at very low revs, and is jolly useful when modelling – doesn't run away with you. Dennis

[StovepipeParticipant @stovepipe]

I'm happy with my 2 Dremels, one is a mains and the other is a battery operated one. not had any problem with the collets, but some of the accessories are a different kettle of fish. The battery operated Dremel can start at very low revs, and is jolly useful when modelling – doesn't run away with you. Dennis

[Jeff DaymanParticipant @jeffdayman43397]

I have a genuine Dremel (my second genuine Dremel one) and a couple of China Cheapies. For rough jobs like model castings or auto casting part cleanup work or shortening screws, I use the Chinese ones and don't feel bad about beating the heck out of them. They cost $20 here on sale and at that price if I get a year of the roughest sort of work from them I'm happy. I keep the more expensive genuine Dremel for finer work like precision grinding and fitting or engraving. It is better to use for that purpose than the cheapies, because the bearings and speed control are so much better. I've had mine for 5 yr now. It has given no trouble except the spead control needed disassembly and cleaning once when it stopped working. I still do have my original Dremel model 260 given to me about 1972 as a birthday present. I was making a lot of plastic and wood/card models then and it was like getting a solid gold bar. Still works but very worn, and no speed control.

Just my $0.02, your mileage may vary. JD

[Jeff DaymanParticipant @jeffdayman43397]

I have a genuine Dremel (my second genuine Dremel one) and a couple of China Cheapies. For rough jobs like model castings or auto casting part cleanup work or shortening screws, I use the Chinese ones and don't feel bad about beating the heck out of them. They cost $20 here on sale and at that price if I get a year of the roughest sort of work from them I'm happy. I keep the more expensive genuine Dremel for finer work like precision grinding and fitting or engraving. It is better to use for that purpose than the cheapies, because the bearings and speed control are so much better. I've had mine for 5 yr now. It has given no trouble except the spead control needed disassembly and cleaning once when it stopped working. I still do have my original Dremel model 260 given to me about 1972 as a birthday present. I was making a lot of plastic and wood/card models then and it was like getting a solid gold bar. Still works but very worn, and no speed control.

Just my $0.02, your mileage may vary. JD

[Jeff DaymanParticipant @jeffdayman43397]

I have a genuine Dremel (my second genuine Dremel one) and a couple of China Cheapies. For rough jobs like model castings or auto casting part cleanup work or shortening screws, I use the Chinese ones and don't feel bad about beating the heck out of them. They cost $20 here on sale and at that price if I get a year of the roughest sort of work from them I'm happy. I keep the more expensive genuine Dremel for finer work like precision grinding and fitting or engraving. It is better to use for that purpose than the cheapies, because the bearings and speed control are so much better. I've had mine for 5 yr now. It has given no trouble except the spead control needed disassembly and cleaning once when it stopped working. I still do have my original Dremel model 260 given to me about 1972 as a birthday present. I was making a lot of plastic and wood/card models then and it was like getting a solid gold bar. Still works but very worn, and no speed control.

Just my $0.02, your mileage may vary. JD

[BaldricParticipant @baldric]

Thanks for the comments and reminding me of Proxxon's existance, I have decided on a Proxxon as I want a product that should last even though there are cheaper options. I will try it without the flexible drive fo now and see how I get on.
Mark

[BaldricParticipant @baldric]

Thanks for the comments and reminding me of Proxxon's existance, I have decided on a Proxxon as I want a product that should last even though there are cheaper options. I will try it without the flexible drive fo now and see how I get on.
Mark

[BaldricParticipant @baldric]

Thanks for the comments and reminding me of Proxxon's existance, I have decided on a Proxxon as I want a product that should last even though there are cheaper options. I will try it without the flexible drive fo now and see how I get on.
Mark

[Gordon WParticipant @gordonw]

Well, not a Dremel, but I bought an old tool complete with variable speed power supply, called Como, has a small chuck, must be pretty ancient by now but works well. Cost a fiver at a car-boot sale. I don't use it much except to sharpen chainsaw with a diamond file. Yes I know I shouldn't. This has no bearings, just a couple of brass bushes, but doesn't have much wear.

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