Anyone made a splash back for a Boxford?

[HollowpointParticipant @hollowpoint]

Has anyone made a splashback for a Boxford Aud?

I would like to make one for mine but I can’t think how to do it without drilling lots of new holes? Mine is a MK1 aud with the rounded tray which makes things a bit more difficult and as an added bonus I don’t have anything to bend the sheet steel I have.

The only thing I can think of is to use some kind of clamp?

Any suggestions?

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

I don’t own a Boxford but I did fabricate a combined splash-back and motor guard using 3mm thick PVC sheet, which is moderately stiff.

I formed the bends using simple pieces of plywood clamped to it, and careful softening with a heat-gun. The joints are solvent-welded, reinforced by “angle-plastic” lengths made from the same material, and I think some aluminium-angle in one or two places.

You can bend thin sheet-steel by clamping thick boards to each side – laminated chipboard panels from old cabinets are fine for this – each side of the joint line. The boards keep the steel flat each side of the bend.

One way you can finish the edges for safety and rigidity, is with thin-walled steel tube. Cut a slit as wide as the sheet thickness along the tubes, bond them to the sheet with tack-welds or an epoxy adhesive such as car body filler. I have used ex-car brake pipe along short edges, and as I did not have a milling-machine at the time carefully filed a flat, a vice-width at a time in my case, along each piece until it just broke through the wall.

[Dave WoottonParticipant @davewootton]

I’ve not made a Boxford splashback, but I have made one for my S7 which is on the old industrial stand with rounded edges. The back is made from 1.5 mm sheet and as I could think of no way of bending it neatly, I cut a series of slots with a cutting disc, a bit like long perforations,along the bend line which enabled a very clean bend. The edges are round 10mm tube from B&Q which I bent round a simple wooden former after filling with sand and heating red hot (there are some pictures and description on the model engineer proboards site in the what I’ve done today from earlier this year). After tack welding it all together I filled the slots left in the bend with JB weld and a skim of car body filler before painting. I’m fortunate to have a small TIG set, but did make similar for an old lathe I had years ago from square tube and thin sheet, using hidden pop rivets and soft solder ( and more car filler!) when painted it didn’t lookk too bad from the front. The splashguard is bracketed from the base of the stand quite rigidly as I wanted to hang the heavy machine lamp from it, the idea was to try and make it all look as if Myford intended it to be like that, No, I don’t know why either, but it makes me happy! I’ll try and poke my phone behind the stand to photograph the bracketry later today.

 

[HollowpointParticipant @hollowpoint]

Nigel – thanks for that, it hadn’t even crossed my mind I could use plastic.

Dave – I like the look of yours, good idea with drilling and welding the holes. I’m in the same school of thinking as you, I like my machines to look factory. 👍

It’s the brackets or fixings I’m having more trouble figuring out though. I’m thinking something like a g-clamp which can be attached to the tray.

[Craig BrownParticipant @craigbrown60096]

I have made one for my Boxford AUD out of 3mm aluminium and I clamped it to the upstand on the drip tray by basically sandwiching the drip tray between the splash back and another strip of aluminium across the back that is bolted to the splash back and tightened up when slotted over the drip tray. I will get some pictures when I’m home later

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

You don’t need to bend anything. a flat sheet at the back over a piece of plastic gutter. Plastic trim over sharp edges. Light wooden frame up the back that it can hang on.

[Dave WoottonParticipant @davewootton]

Managed to get a fairly reasonable picture of the brackets for the Myford splashguard mentioned above, shows the clip that fits to the round edge of the existing tray and the 5mm nut and bolt drilled through the edging tube to fix it firmly in place, turned out very rigid and rattle free. Details of bending the tube are on page 487 of what i did today on the model engineer proboards website. I did not actually weld up the slots made to ease the bending but filled them with JB weld compound, I thought if welding was tried I would distort everything, not fell out yet!

[Dave WoottonParticipant @davewootton]

Looking at the above picture I can see the long series socket missing for months nestling between the wooden cabinet top and the wall, typically I gave up looking last week and bought a replacement!!!!

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