In response to Steve Skelton …
The particular risk with an outside tap is that a user may be scantily dressed including no shoes and therefore be in good contact with the general mass of the earth.
Indoors, a householder is more likely to be shod and standing on reasonably insulating materials such as a suspended wooden floor, or a solid one with a damp-proof membrane. So in the event of a lost neutral AND contact with an exposed conductive part such as the case of a toaster or your favourite machine tool, the householder may well get a nasty tingle.
If the neutral is lost in the service cable to my house and I have plastic gas and water services, the leccy reaches the break and the voltage rises to 230 V, but it has no further to go. It backs up along the circuit protective conductors so they also are at 230 V. Everything is at the same potential – i.e. 230 V.
However, if I have a metal gas supply (which I do) and my neighbour also has a metal gas supply, the neutral current can jump across to my earth at the intake and thence to the main earthing terminal, which is usually a plated block by the intake, but it can be in the consumer unit. The current now goes along the main protective bonding to the gas pipe along which it can pop next door. Then it goes along their bonding to their MET and then back down their neutral back to the tranny. The only evidence of this may be warm main bonding. So, in short, there are advantages in not inserting an isolating segment.
Neutrals have not been fused for years. Should a neutral fuse blow, but not the line fuse, you are back in the realms of a lost neutral.
It is important to realise that not only will an MCB or main fuse not protect you in the event of a lost neutral, neither will an RCD of any sort.
If you live in the countryside with aerial cables and there is a storm and the telly goes off and the lights go dim, it may well be a lost neutral.Turn off the main switch and leave your lathe well alone!