Alternative to Hacksaw?

[john halfpennyParticipant @johnhalfpenny52803]

You say no room for an electric saw, but a Kennedy Hexacut 60 is small (22×9×8 inches), and will cut just over 2.5 inches round stock mild steel. I’ve done this often. I use standard hacksaw blades. Takes a while, but mine cuts quite square, and will chunter away whilst I am doing something else.

 

 

[Paul McDonough]

On Paul McDonough Said:

LOL! Thank you for your forthright advice.

Forgive my ignorance but in what context are band saw blades 4″ round please?

I have tried google and i don’t get convincing answers

I agree with Larry and Howard.  My generic bandsaw, which came from Warco (a CY90), is the roughest machine tool I ever bought!  However, it’s also the most useful, because it removes the need for tiresome tedious hack-sawing.

Mine arrived with a cheap carbon-steel blade that didn’t last long or cut straight.  Replacing it with a bi-metallic blade made an immediate improvement though the blade still tended to cut slantwise   Fixed by carefully adjusting the blade tension and rollers, which required some fettling of the metalwork – as delivered, the rough casting did not quite allow enough tension travel, and I vaguely remember tweaking one of the rollers too.   Both drive wheels were marred by the remains of a moulding line.   All easily fixed with a file, and resetting, since when I’ve not had to touch it apart from mending a gearbox cover leak: this also due to a minor casting fault, mended with blue gasket stuff.

The need to fettle this class of saw isn’t uncommon, and not everyone is comfy doing it:  many hobbyists prefer making things to mending their tools!   I took the line that improving the saw was a learning opportunity.

The generic saw’s advantage is low cost, less than half that of the least expensive alternative.   But it might need attention.   FEM saws have a good reputation, but bear in mind they’re inexpensive too!  Industrial saws are designed for years of hard accurate cutting and cost thousands.    Second-hand industrial is an option, but their condition is all important.  In my view, a cheap hobby saw needing minor fettling is a better bet than a worn-out high-end saw needing lots of repairs and expensive parts.

Dave

[Chris CrewParticipant @chriscrew66644]

Depending on the size of your lathe you could part it off. I have quite happily parted 5″ dia. mild steel noggins in a Colchester Student to make backplates for the Myford. The ‘secret’ is a substantial rear tool-post, an Eclipse type blade held in a J&S type holder, steady feed and copious amounts of coolant/lubricant. Keep extending the parting blade outward in stages until you’re through. If there is not too much over-hang, and I have only parted about 1.5″ dia. personally in the Myford, you might get away with a bit bigger with care. Same precautions apply: parting tool in a robust rear tool-post and plenty of ‘suds’. BTW, centre the stock in the 4-jaw as it will grip more securely.

 

[Paul McDonoughParticipant @paulmcdonough43628]

Thank you John, I’ve not seen one of those, dinky little thing isnt it  :0)

[RolsterParticipant @rolster]

I have been using a Meddings cold chop saw for many years and find the blades last a long time as long as you use cutting fluid liberally applied with a brush, I don’t have any flood coolant.

The blade turns quite slowly but it gets through stock surprisingly fast.

The old factory used to be close by, when i was in the U.K and they would re-sharpen the blades, or sell you new ones easily, but now moved elsewhere and they don’t make these any more. When my current stock of blades run out i’ll have to find a new source.

[Paul McDonoughParticipant @paulmcdonough43628]

Fettling lower cost machinery is probably were Im going to end up :0)

Parting off is a challenge on my lathe, (smaller than a ‘Student’) I have had some success with using the tool up side down and reversing the drive, I have no way of fixing the tool round the back, but generally I get so far then use a hack saw.

 

Thank you for your responses everyone

[LindsayParticipant @lindsaydonaldson93648]

My Femi cut beautifully straight UNTIL I changed the blade. I tried another new blade to no avail.  Any tips on blade/roller clearance etc?

[larry phelan 1Participant @larryphelan1]

Sorry about my bad punctuation, Paul, it,s the way I was brung up !

Yes, I did mean 4″ round material, which is not something I would like to attack with a hacksaw. I cut 3″ round once, never again !

Time and effort are no longer on our side, so save your arms.

As Dave said, you might have to do a little fettling, I was lucky in that it worked right out of the box. You wont know yourself, once you get to use one.

[Grizzly bearParticipant @grizzlybear]

Hi,

My vote, angle grinder.

Good luck……….

[DiogenesParticipant @diogenes]

I might have been lucky, but I set up my cheap (on sale a couple of years ago) Warco 6×4 (sorry, “4 1/2″ Universal”) as soon as I got it (there are adjustments for all /any ‘alignment’ eventualities as far as I can see) and it’s cut pleasingly well ever since..

I haven’t really fettled it at all, and the carbon steel blade it came with is still on there in spite of a ferrous diet that has at times been harsh – I followed accepted wisdom and bought a ‘better’ replacement blade at the time, but it’s still hanging on the wall.

I’m very fond of it, and if some parts could be a little less ‘cheap’, they aren’t really the parts that seem to matter.

It’s done a lot of good work for little cost and even less effort on my part.

[jon hill 3Participant @jonhill3]

Hi Paul

id go for a 2nd hand Axminster horizontal bandsaw.  The model I have has a cast ali base and with a bit of fettling on the saw blade guides its an acceptable straight cut. It can be adjusted to do angle cuts up to 45 degree and has a micro switch to shut off automacally or run continuous if needed.  Down side is its much slower than a chop saw but will cut big lumps of metal for a worktop saw, also quite heavy at approx 30kg.

Jon

[Paul McDonough]

On Paul McDonough Said:

Thank you John, I’ve not seen one of those, dinky little thing isnt it  :0)

Personally I’d baulk at the price, but if you’re anywhere near Hull, there’s one on Facebook marketplace.
I was very fortunate, as mine came from the local scrapyard for a tenner, though it took a while to dry the motor out before firing it up.
Bill

[Paul McDonoughParticipant @paulmcdonough43628]

Always nice to bag a restoration bargain :0)

humberside is a bit of a stretch and I am looking to keep costs down.

secondhand is a good idea, I shall be on the look out for one in my area.

 

[Perko7Participant @perko7]

+1 for checking the bandsaw tension. I had a probem with mine not cutting square and tracked it down to the tension being insufficient, tightened it up to spec and worked fine afterwards.

[Roy VaughnParticipant @royvaughn26060]

I had had enough of hacksawing stock a couple of years ago and bought a Scheppach bandsaw from Aldi.  It was on offer at £115 at the time.  It’s the most cost-effective investment in my workshop and completely eliminates the dread of having starting a new part!  It doesn’t matter how square it cuts within reason, you’re going to machine it all over anyway, though it happens that mine is good for a few thou over 40mm despite the price.  Roy

[Ian HewsonParticipant @ianhewson99641]

X1 for the Scheppach, same here.

[Ian HewsonParticipant @ianhewson99641]

It now appears to be out of stock, glad I got mine when I did, works very well 🤞.

[Paul McDonough]

On Paul McDonough Said:

Thank you John, I’ve not seen one of those, dinky little thing isnt it  :0)

There also a ’90’ version that is somewhat less dinky.

[Roy VaughnParticipant @royvaughn26060]

£185 from Scheppach direct.

[Paul McDonoughParticipant @paulmcdonough43628]

Thanks for the suggestion

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