Airbrushing

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Airbrushing

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  • #47044
    James B
    Participant
      @jamesb
      Hi,
       
      I am considering buying an airbrush for painting models. Can I ask if anyone has any experience of airbrushing model engines, i.e:-
       
      It it the best method to use?
      Is there a good model airbrush to choose?
      What should I avoid?
      Good paints to use for engines?
       
      For info I am considering Badger 200 & 350 models.
       
      Thanks in advance.
       
      James
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      #4907
      James B
      Participant
        @jamesb
        #47046
        Phil Ashman
        Participant
          @philashman88468
          Airbrushes are great for painting any kind of model. You can use more or less any sort of paint, but it needs to be well thinned, and plenty of thinners is needed for clearing the airbrush when pausing painting. I have a badger 200, and it suits all my needs.
           
          Also, get a compressor. Using those cans of compressed air is a miserable experience, due to the constantly varying pressure, and they’re pretty expensive as well.
           
          Phil
          #47047
          JasonB
          Moderator
            @jasonb
            Out of the two the Badger 200 will give a better finish as its an internal mix brush – air & paint mix withing the head which gives finer droplets of paint.
             
            I have used Humbrol Enamels on smaller stationary engines but the Minnie in my avitar is done with Pheonex paints using their thinners & etch primers.
             
            For cleaning get some of teh badger aerosol cleaner or “sprayaway” will shift the liquid paint far quicker than thinners
             
            Jason

            Edited By JasonB on 05/01/2010 13:41:57

            #47050
            James B
            Participant
              @jamesb
              Thanks for your advice – you have reassured me!
               
              I have a compressor with a regulator that I use for air tools, so this should be OK for the job.
               
              Regarding the Badger 200, do you have a bottom fed or gravity model (small cup on top)? I am assuming this is just a capacity difference for smaller / bigger jobs? Any advantage either way?
               
              Thanks,
               
              James
              #47052
              Peter Gain
              Participant
                @petergain89847

                 

                I agree with the previous comments made, but before buying spray equipment read some books on the subject & learn the difference between airbrushes & mini-spray guns. Badger products are of good quality (the Fords) For the Mercedes you will have to purchase Japanese (& pay a lot more). But beware of cheap clones if you are after a good finish.

                 

                The “350” (external mix) & it’s many clones is capable of giving a good finish but the spray adjustment is critical & tends to drift whilst in use. The 100, 175, 200, & similar types are internal mix. Internal mix brushes were originally designed for watercolour washes. Due to the air/paint mixing internally, they rapidly clog if used for fast drying finishes. This can be overcome by frequent cleaning but some operatives may find this irritating.

                 

                Despite the EU, it is still possible to purchase cellulose thinners from your local auto-refinishing supplier. The grade to ask for is known as “gun wash”. It is about £5/6 for a 5ltr can, a fraction of the cost if purchased in small quantities. Shop around, prices vary considerably. This product will clear out most enamels & varnishes when used after initial cleaning with the appropriate thinners. Only a small quantity of the expensive airbrush cleaner will then be required. Gun wash is also useful for general degreasing but use with caution on painted surfaces. Use with what we used to call “common sense”.

                 With a little practice you will be able to achieve a very satisfying finish, far better than with a brush. The result will look far more professional.

                 

                Peter Gain

                 

                #47054
                JasonB
                Moderator
                  @jasonb
                  I have a bottom feed 150 with both bottles and metal colour cup and for fine work a 100 with top cup. If only using very small amounts of colour or working close in then a top feed is best but you will be constantly filling it up on anythiing over 6″ square.
                   
                  The 200 will be the be easier to use as its a single action which is all thats needed for solid colour work. The actual head that produces the spray is the same on all three models. You can get small metal cups for the 200 which can be handy .
                   
                  Also make sure your compressor has a moisture trap otherwise you will get a splat of water come through the tube every so often as the moisture in the air condenses out.
                   
                   
                  Jason
                  #47056
                  James B
                  Participant
                    @jamesb
                    Hi,
                     
                    Again, thanks for the advice. Hadn’t thought about moisture trap. Also, the cellulose thinners is a good option – cheaper than the airbrush cleaner!
                     
                    I have also been advised to look at a Colani airbrush – this is almost a minature spray gun, intended for bigger areas – does anyone have any experience of these?
                     
                    James
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